Our Quick bowthruster (BTR 185) isn't pushing anymore. Meaning, it opens (and closes) properly, but instead of starting the motor there is just a click sound. What we can exclude: battery is ok, connectors look fine, wheels are turning freely. Any suggestions?

(s. https:////www.sarabella.ch/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Quick-Bowthruster-BTR185-issue.mp4" rel="nofollow - video )

Did you check the fuse at the batteries? The batteries will still show good voltage but if the fuse is gone or has bad contact the thruster will not go. 

Did you check the voltage at the batteries when the thruster tries to start. If one or both batteries have failed the voltage will drop  when the thruster tries to start. When the thruster is not trying to start the batteries with no drain can show good voltage especially when they are being charged all the time.  

Check the battery cable connection to the thruster motor - loose? corrosion? 

At least here in the US,  I've had good luck calling QUICKUSA and discussing the problem over the phone.    They talked me thru one issue, which turned out to be a blown fuse, and my initial confusion regarding controller fuses and the actual thruster fuses.   Not sure if you have someone similar to call in Sardenia.

In the meantime a Pro mechanics close to our homeport in Sardinia ( http://www.nautitec.net/" rel="nofollow - http://www.nautitec.net/ )   was aboard and measured the currents, concluding that the motor isn't responding. He will take it to his workshop the next days. Although we used it many times sailing from Germany to Greece in two seasons and visiting 120 marinas maneuvering a lot with the bowthruster, I was amazed of this verdict. Four years of use, approx 400 moves and already broken ?? Can't we expect a longer lifetime of these parts? I'll keep you updated.

It's definitely the motor itsself. The mechanics demounted it - a quick job of 15 minutes.

Disassembling it will show what the issue was.

One of the things I learned early on was to use the thruster in short bursts.   Long runs for the thruster would damage the motor (I was told).    This may be a myth, but I've tried to keep to it.

Not sure if that matters in this case, but thought I would pass it on.    My damage to the thruster was caused by sucking in some line.   Others have told me that long bursts hurts the motor itself.  

I did noticed this effect with Hanse supplied AGMs, but Victron Lithium did not show any noticeable voltage drop when hooking 2kW loads like espresso machine. I didn't try to hook up 4kW load though, cannot comment what would happen

Yes, for 60 feet the voltage drop would be 1V for 4/0 AWG. I estimated 30 feet round trip is OK for my setup

I think many people have concern over both the voltage drop as well as the house bank usage.  If you are installing a thruster,  why not stay within a proven configuration rather than trying something for which there may be no proof points?      Why not put a 24V setup in place close to the battery and leave the house bank alone?   No place to put the battery(s)?

Unless there is someone out there who will say "this works"...??

Opening the motor showed the damage: broken coils/brushes (s. pics). Comment of mechanics: "Not normal for a new bowthruster  of 4 years, maybe the motor was stuck for a while and and the first start the brushes were "glued" and the rotation broke them..." Lesson learned: start the bowthruster during the winter break.

Conc. the usage of bowthruster: We don't push more than 5-10 sec. and to be honest for normal harbour maneuvres without lots of sidewind you don't really need a bowthruster. The real threat are the mooring lines which often kill the propellers. I suggest to keep a spare set aboard. With a good diver they can be exchanged easily.

The end of the tragedy: the stator shows signs of rust, ergo new motor! Is this sh*t happens or Quick "made in China"?

Now that I'm looking at it I'm wondering if I can bench test it by applying 12V. Any body tried that? Any ideas?

I'm trying to figure out if the issue is in the controller at the helm, the motor or the controller board at the thruster.

So that's probably the issue. Will open it up to see what we have inside.

To my untrained eye, the flange looks pretty bad. I'd guess the motor shaft is corroded tight. I couldn't turn it by hand. I'd guess that a good motor mechanic may be able to fix it by replacing bearing etc. But can't be sure unless I get it done. And a bowthruster being generally needed only when things get hairy, I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with that kind of fix.

I'm getting quotations for a new motor including an upgrade to a 6.3kW. And change the circuit board and helm control while I'm at it.

How's your haul out coming along?

Oil Seals: Also known in some parts of the world as "shaft seals".  You need 1 of each these 3:

There are 5 other components, but you should be able to salvage them from your current installation:

That would enable me to keep to the schedule and then replace later if needed.

Here is what I have been able to diagnose:

1.) Activation from the helm console does cause the thruster to deploy into position.  This is a separate 12v circuit from the 24v thruster drive.

2.) I do have 24v+ at the stern battery bank.

3.) The inline fuse has continuity.

4.) I do have 24v+ at the motor starter relay.

5.) When I activate the joystick, the relay "thunks" in each direction suggesting (to me) that everything is ready to go.

6.) No activation of the motor itself.  If it spun but without propulsion, I would look at the U-joint that some have reported problems with.  Doesn't seem to be my problem.  When I was hauled out last summer, I was able to spin the thruster propellers with a load I would expect for it to be coupled to a motor rather than detached.

7.) I open the motor inspection hatch for the brushes.  No carbon build-up, commutator looks fairly shiny, and there's no other direct sign of water ingress or corrosion.  I did not pull the motor.  While I think I understand you can do so while in the water, I was nervous to do so alone.

While there's a chance the relay isn't completely performing its job by completing the circuit, I would think that's less likely to be the problem -- especially since neither direction works.  I don't know a lot about troubleshooting DC motors, are there ideas about determining which of these is my problem?