12 volt fuses for anchor and bowtruster controls.
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 400
Forum Description: 400 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14625
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:51
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Topic: 12 volt fuses for anchor and bowtruster controls.
Posted By: Frodi
Subject: 12 volt fuses for anchor and bowtruster controls.
Date Posted: 16 May 2024 at 10:58
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Hi. Just bought a Hanse 400 from 2007. On test sailing 2 weeks ago everything worked, but now winch and bowthruster are not working and there is no voltage on the two brakers in the control panel for anchor winch and bowthruster (number 2 and 3 switch from top in right switch row. Would like to check the fuses for theese, but cant find them. Anyone know where to look? |
Replies:
Posted By: DJgun
Date Posted: 16 May 2024 at 13:17
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There are no "fuses" for those switches as they are all resettable thermal breakers. Those two are just 5 amp (anchor winch) and 15 amp(bow thruster). Use the switches to reset themselves. The power to the switches comes from relay K1, which has an interlock to only operate when the main engine is running the interlock uses 2 amp fuse between alternator and the main control panel.. They both control their own solenoid relays located in lower compartment Main power for the Anchor and bow thruster is protected by the square black thermal breakers in the lower electrical space. I think they are labelled. Is there is no light on the switches when switched on then there is an issue with K1 relay and the engine running interlock. Cheers
------------- DJ.....Sailor Ordinaire HIN DE-HANJ0331J708 |
Posted By: Trav
Date Posted: 18 May 2024 at 14:21
| Make sure your engine is running. These systems will not work otherwise. |
Posted By: Frodi
Date Posted: 18 May 2024 at 14:49
| Yes, engine must be running, but still no power on controls in panel. |
Posted By: DJgun
Date Posted: 18 May 2024 at 23:33
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Hi Frodi There is a fuse in the wire from the alternator to the control panel. That wire is what allows K1 relay to switch on. From memory the fuse is on the port side of the engine. If that is blown then those switches will not be powered. If you consult the wiring schematic you will see the pin it comes through and you can check the voltage there when motor is running. But, first thing is to find that fuse. FYI, on my 400 that system has been bypassed so that the K1 relay is not even used. It is just "known" to run the engine for anchor retrieval, rather than enforced by the electrical controls.
------------- DJ.....Sailor Ordinaire HIN DE-HANJ0331J708 |
Posted By: Frodi
Date Posted: 19 May 2024 at 14:51
| Hi DJgun. Had to leave the boat for a few weeks because of work, but will chek that as soon as im back, sounds like the fuse could be the problem. Thanks again for your help, Frodi |
Posted By: Arcadia
Date Posted: 19 May 2024 at 17:03
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I like what DJgun has suggested. That relay is more trouble than it’s worth. The 588 has no such device. The problem is that you may need to use your windlass or thruster in a situation where your engine has suddenly died or even if just the alternator has quit. It can put you in a precarious situation. ------------- Leon / ARCADIA 2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY |
Posted By: Frodi
Date Posted: 03 June 2024 at 20:43
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Hi DJgun. Actually the problem as you suggested was a blown fuse in the engine room. Thanks again for your help. |
Posted By: Dogscout
Date Posted: 05 June 2024 at 13:09
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Hello all. I have read this thread with great interest. I have a 2008 430 and my bow thruster has been working itermently. I have replaced the 2 Amp fuse at the engine, and he fuse that leads to the relay in the electronics cabinet. The lights on the switch panel do light when the engine is on. I have cleaned all contacts on the thruster unit in the bow compartment. I have cleaned the contacts on the wire connectors at the control switch at the stbd helm. When I try to switch on the bow thruster at the helm control. Black button and toggle switch. Nothing happens. No beeps nothing. Do you have any ideas what may be wrong. It has worked and then not worked for the past few months. ------------- Adventure awaits |
Posted By: Issywa
Date Posted: 05 June 2024 at 20:34
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I’m also greatly interested in this post as my windlass (anchor winch) recently failed to retrieve the anchor - and retrieving a 20 kg Vulcan anchor with 80 feet of chain by hand is something I don’t want to do again! I opened up the windlass to check out the contactor and noticed a defective spade terminal so I replaced the Lewmar contactor. Unfortunately, the windlass still will only lower the anchor and not retrieve it. There is a post with the 430 electrical schematic but I’m unable to view it. Fuses appear to be ok but who knows as the wiring on this boat is difficult to trace due to all the harnesses. Wondering if anyone has 1) a PDF of the electrical schematic and 2) thoughts on why the windlass won’t work in the up mode? |
Posted By: DJgun
Date Posted: 06 June 2024 at 00:34
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As your boat is 2008 model it is likely that it is now suffering the dreaded wire corrosion which has affected quite a few Hanse yachts of that vintage. If you check voltage at the switch and also at the relay and bow thruster you will probably find it is either low or non existent. If it is low then measure voltage when switch is operated and it may drop to be very low. That is what happens when the cables are corroded internally. That corrosion was so bad on my 2007/2008 model 400 that I have had to replace wiring for bow lights, anchor winch control, and vee-berth reading lights right back to the electrical board. That was a very time intensive job involving destruction of some interior panels due the the way these boats were built. Cheers DJ ------------- DJ.....Sailor Ordinaire HIN DE-HANJ0331J708 |
Posted By: Issywa
Date Posted: 06 June 2024 at 09:13
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Did you remove the old wiring or leave in place and run new? I replaced my alternator with a Balmar XT170 along with an Arco Zeus external regulator. At the same time, I ran new wiring under the floor and into the battery compartment. I tried to remove all of the redundant cables but found it was too difficult so I abandoned much of it in place. Lots of it…. Quite frustrating hence my query about your project and possibly future one. |
Posted By: DJgun
Date Posted: 07 June 2024 at 10:34
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Hi Isswya, As you found, it is very difficult to actually remove the existing wiring which runs towards the bow from the main electrical board. Unfortunately Hanse has used tight cable clips, screwd to the hull itself, prior to fitting the lining, making the wires trapped. I don't understand why the did that instead of installing conduits, like they have elsewhere in the boat to enable maintenance of the electrical system especially as they used un-tinned copper cable which is mote sensitive to corrosion. Many other manufacturers use conduits everywhere. I cut the free ends off the corroded cables so nobody is tempted to use them in the future. I cut small access squares in the lining to enable new cables to be run through next to original cables, all in colour coded mesh cable protection sleeves. All the cables are labelled both ends. Then I fitted a couple of small junction boxes in the space where the bow thruster is sometimes fitted. I also ran additional cables to provide a 12V power outlet in the anchor locker for future use of an anchor wash pump. Where I cut the access holes I refitted the removed pieces with backing flanges, as shown in attached pic. Not pretty but the options were limited.
 ------------- DJ.....Sailor Ordinaire HIN DE-HANJ0331J708 |
Posted By: Issywa
Date Posted: 07 June 2024 at 11:01
| I like your idea of cutting in an access panel. I’lln my effort to remove the cables running from my battery compartment to my old alternator, I cut in an access panel in the head below the holding tank. I found a white plastic one at Home Depot roughly 14”x14”. Even then the wiring harness was too tightly secured that I gave up. |