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Restoring worn steps

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Category: General
Forum Name: Chit Chat
Forum Description: Talk about anything to do with your boat
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14730
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:41
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Topic: Restoring worn steps
Posted By: Johan Hackman
Subject: Restoring worn steps
Date Posted: 22 July 2024 at 12:07
Today is nineteen years ago to the day that I stepped on the companionway ladder for the first time. That was a big day for me! Not only stepping on the ladder for the first time of cours, but to take commission of my boat.

The steps look as in the picture below and I will start restoring them as soon as I get back home from sailing.

As I at this moment have few clues how to go about in the most accurate way I thought I'd ask for advice and see if anyone else has got through this process already. I don't even know what paint to use.

Johan



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Replies:
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 23 July 2024 at 09:40
If I was going to use a clear finish i would use sadolins PV67. I have used it on my oak stairs for the last 20 years plus, I refurbished 14 tables in our sailing club some years ago Inspite of the hard use they get, they are still as good as ever. I have also used it on some bar tops, laboratory counters & reception desks that I have supplied with success.
It is supplied as a floor finish & comes in gloss, semi gloss & matt.
Obviously you need to sand off & prepare from bare wood first.


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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 24 July 2024 at 09:04
That seems a good varnish, Samuel. It however appears that you cannot find it in Sweden. Buggers.

Johan

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Posted By: coriolis2
Date Posted: 24 July 2024 at 09:45
Hi Johan, you could try this:
https://polyestershoppen.nl/lakken/dd-lak-mat-315.html?_gl=1*1t91sqy*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTg2MDQ0OTYyOS4xNzIxODEwNTA3*_ga_FK0LCZBYLE*MTcyMTgxMDUwNy4xLjEuMTcyMTgxMDU4Ny4wLjAuMTY5MjUzNDUw&gclid=CjwKCAjwzIK1BhAuEiwAHQmU3j7vARlTtXknK423npW_F0orBCQFwoKFDAUF590kwsIfQxhMZcmrUhoCCL8QAvD_BwE" rel="nofollow - https://polyestershoppen.nl/lakken/dd-lak-mat-315.html?_gl=1*1t91sqy*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTg2MDQ0OTYyOS4xNzIxODEwNTA3*_ga_FK0LCZBYLE*MTcyMTgxMDUwNy4xLjEuMTcyMTgxMDU4Ny4wLjAuMTY5MjUzNDUw&gclid=CjwKCAjwzIK1BhAuEiwAHQmU3j7vARlTtXknK423npW_F0orBCQFwoKFDAUF590kwsIfQxhMZcmrUhoCCL8QAvD_BwE


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"Coriolis" H350 #045 (ex Waarschip 570 #? 1987/1992, ex Waarschip 28LD #7 1994/2007)


Posted By: coriolis2
Date Posted: 24 July 2024 at 09:49
This one may even be better, I used the transparant one on the handlebars of my dodger:
https://www.polyservice.nl/hoogglans-lak/1337-dd-lak-blanke-lak-mahonie-uv-750-ml-set-320126.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.polyservice.nl/hoogglans-lak/1337-dd-lak-blanke-lak-mahonie-uv-750-ml-set-320126.html


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"Coriolis" H350 #045 (ex Waarschip 570 #? 1987/1992, ex Waarschip 28LD #7 1994/2007)


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 26 July 2024 at 10:08
I think this discussion raises another question that I didn't think of before.

Since there seems to be a choice between one part and two part varnishes, I wonder what Hanse used? Does anyone know? And does i matter when refurbishing the interior? (Perhaps not when sanding do the bare wood, but if in places you just want to put a new coat on top of the old one?)

Johan

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Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 26 July 2024 at 12:54
Johan, 
When I first got my boat, there were a couple of chips in the interior varnish and the Hanse UK dealers were able to get me small tins of the varnish which was two pack. What I have since established is that the interior wood on my boat is beech and that it’s first coated with a clear two pack and then a pigmented two pack varnish. I still haven’t been able to source the colour code for the pigmented varnish, which for my boat is the high gloss cherry from 2005.

Simon 


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 27 July 2024 at 10:01
Originally posted by sgrhma2 sgrhma2 wrote:

...and that it’s first coated with a clear two pack and then a pigmented two pack varnish.


I am beginning to realise that "two pack" means the same as "two component". So that answers my question really. Two pack it should be.

I find it interesting that you can pigment the varnish. I will keep that in mind.

I am also going to refurbish the saloon table that has burn marks from tea lights that I put in a muffin mould when my boat was new. I realised too late that it would get too hot on the underside.

Johan

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Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 27 July 2024 at 11:21
Johan, 
The big problem I’ve had is identifying the colour code for the pigmented varnish. The small touch up tins that I got from the dealer had no markings on them and have long since been used up. I managed to get a varnish mixed that was close by a firm in Dublin, but it’s still not right.
I’m sure there is someone on the forum that would know the pigment codes or a source for the varnishes used.

Simon 


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 28 July 2024 at 16:00
I ordered my boat with synthetic rattan in the cupboard doors. They lasted seven years. I then cut out pieces of mahogany plywood which I stained an put varnish on. My aim was to get the same colour but they turned out darker, which made them even look better.

So in my situation, if the steps turn out darker than before this would not be such a great deal.

Johan


Emilia's interior today


The synthetic rattan in 2012

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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 28 July 2024 at 16:08
Originally posted by Johan Hackman Johan Hackman wrote:

I am also going to refurbish the saloon table that has burn marks from tea lights that I put in a muffin mould when my boat was new. I realised too late that it would get too hot on the underside.


I hope to be able to sand the table top and get rid of the burnmarks and also restore it back to its original glossy finish. Since it is veneer I fear that staining it or maybe add pigment to the varnish will be needed. It might not be possible to sand as far down as needed to get rid of the marks.

Johan



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Posted By: martijnvdh
Date Posted: 30 July 2024 at 10:22
Hi Johan!
What colour stain did you use? I replaced the electronics panel last winter with mahogany plywood covered with a clear varnish. Although I am happy with the finish, the colour difference does stand out a bit. 


Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 30 July 2024 at 11:14
I thought I posted this on another thread, but anyway....

One of the things I did was put stair tread pads down to avoid them getting scratched up in the first place.   Easily purchased on AMAZON or other sites,   these are bound carpet pads specifically meant for stairs.    Once you have them refinished,  or if its a new boat, doing this immediately will really preserve the finish.   They also give much better traction going down the companionway than wet, slick, varnished, wood.

*ESPECIALLY* if you have dogs that go up and down by themselves (we have 2).     Some two sided tape specifically for carpet will not damage the finish and comes up easily when its time to replace the carpet pads.    We built our 575 in 2017 and are now on our second set.  



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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 30 July 2024 at 18:04
Originally posted by martijnvdh martijnvdh wrote:

Hi Johan!
What colour stain did you use? I replaced the electronics panel last winter with mahogany plywood covered with a clear varnish. Although I am happy with the finish, the colour difference does stand out a bit. 



It's been ten years but as far as I remember I used something like this: https://www.epifanes.com/page/classic-mahogany" rel="nofollow - https://www.epifanes.com/page/classic-mahogany . I think International has a similar product.

I rememper applying it to the mahogany plywood and putting on the varnish afterward but it seems you can also add it to the varnish.

Looking at your picture I think it would work well with a darker colour.

Johan

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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 30 July 2024 at 18:05
Originally posted by Black Diamond Black Diamond wrote:


One of the things I did was put stair tread pads down to avoid them getting scratched up in the first place.  


That's a good point!

Johan

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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 04 August 2024 at 19:08
This is a bit tricky.

I am using the parts of the heads door that I cut out when I fitted the cat flap in order to practice.

So far I have realised that there is a very thin veneer that as soon as you sand it will appear lighter in some spots than in others.

I have opted for a two part polyurathene varnish that I add a small amount of mahogany stain to.

I have also realised that the added stain does not change the colour the way I hoped. The result is rather weak.

In the first picture I have applied four coats of varnish to the cut-out from the heads door. It still is visible where I have sanded harder. To the left is a small piece of ordinary plywood that I have applied one coat of the same mis to. It it is almost transparent.

The second picture shows how the varnish looks with the stain added to it. I have mixed it in the small white plastic cup.

Johan





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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 04 August 2024 at 19:14
The ladder steps however are solid and not veneer. The picture shows the initial sanding I have done. I am puzzled as to whether it is a good idea to go on wiht the method I describe above.

Johan




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Posted By: Rock
Date Posted: 11 August 2024 at 13:49
I’m no carpenter or professional painter johan, but I would go deeper/further, until you get to relatively clean wood again.
Should be ok with solid wood.
Then  several layers of 2 component urethane (pigmented) clear coat.


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Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 12 August 2024 at 17:30
The sanding has begun!

It is actually almost finished but there are a few spots that I will go over before the wood is entirely bare.

I mentioned the burn marks in the saloon table in this thread but I have decided to leave that work for later and maybe start a new thread.

Johan



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Posted By: Arcadia
Date Posted: 13 August 2024 at 14:39
Looks great. If you wipe it down with paint thinner, it will reveal any blemishes that still exist. You also may want to try a wire brush on the grooves to remove any material in there.

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Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 13 August 2024 at 19:28
I am aware that I have made this thread an invitation to all forum members to watch paint dry together with me!

Originally posted by Arcadia Arcadia wrote:

If you wipe it down with paint thinner, it will reveal any blemishes that still exist.


Thanks for the tip. Very useful. I also used a saw blade from a multi-tool that I used to work on the grooves as best as I could. Nothing in this project is going to be 100% perfect.

So what now? Staining has begun! You are welcome to watch it dry together with me!

I am surprised to see that the mahogany stain I use gives the steps a hue that is very close to the original. My previous experiments made me fear that it wouldn't be so. But then again, the project is not finished yet.

Johan



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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 18 August 2024 at 19:50
Originally posted by Johan Hackman Johan Hackman wrote:

The ladder steps however are solid and not veneer.


What I learned through this process is that the steps are not solid but bent plywood. This is something I realised when I started painting as I couldn't see it before. (Maybe if I had looked closer though.)

What this means is that when sanding the bends on the steps you have to be careful not to sand through the first sheet of plywood as this will not go unnoticed. I made the mistake and while it doesn't look horrible it might act as a warning to anybody wishing to attempt to go through the same procedure.

Johan

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Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 18 August 2024 at 21:53
Johan, from what I can see in the photo the steps look very good.

As with a lot of one off jobs that you do on boats where you are exploring ways to achieve something and then learning how to do it, you are often the only person that knows of or sees a slight mistake you may have made. Anybody coming on board never notices it until you make the mistake of pointing it out. The important thing when planning an addition or modification is to make it and finish it as if the original boat builder did it. Having said that I have found a few obscure bits on my boat that would let me get away with making a real mess.

Simon 


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 19 August 2024 at 09:51
Yeah, it's learning while doing rather than by doing.

I have now applied 8 coats of two pack polyurethane varnish. I am excited to see how they will look back on my boat.

Johan



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Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 19 August 2024 at 09:57
Johan, they look good, great job. You’ll not want to step on them now, so I’d be interested in a video of you trying to get in and out of the boat once you’ve refitted them😂😂😂


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 19 August 2024 at 17:20
Haha, I am sure such video would be entertaining. In fact, I have practiced getting in and out of my boat without the ladder for two weeks now.

The varnish has cured for 32 hours and I couldn't resist putting them back in place. It is a little early to wear on them yet so I'll have to use the moves I have so well practiced still for a little while.

Johan



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Posted By: Rock
Date Posted: 19 August 2024 at 19:09
Big difference johan!
I guess you could even swap the top step for one of the others, if they look nicer, I guess it’s the top one that’s in your field of vision all the time…


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Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 19 August 2024 at 22:48
Originally posted by Rock Rock wrote:

I guess you could even swap the top step for one of the others, if they look nicer


That was my thought exactly! But strangely enough, the way it turned out was that the worn look of the top step looked so good that I opted to let it stay the top step.

Johan

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