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side windows on hull

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 575/588
Forum Description: 575/588 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14859
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:51
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: side windows on hull
Posted By: boomjack
Subject: side windows on hull
Date Posted: 10 October 2024 at 14:23
Dear All,

I wonder if any of you has redone the silicone gasket around the side windows (6).
On my 575 from 2014, these gaskets are falling in black dust and I am not certain wether or not it could create a water resistancy issue some day....



Replies:
Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 10 October 2024 at 18:29
Our 575 is also 2014. We replaced the black Sika seal on the main larger hull windows. A shipwright removed the outer Sika only - did not remove the windows - and then replaced the Sika. This was done about 2.5 years ago and it still seems good.  

-------------
Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: Gale Force
Date Posted: 11 October 2024 at 05:00
I had the outside Sika removed and replaced 12 months ago as it was starting to crumble.Gale Force is 2014.

Cheers
Duncan


Posted By: boomjack
Date Posted: 11 October 2024 at 09:38
Thanks to both you, ok I will do the same, even if the shipyard people told me SIKA was not appropriated and they advise simple soft silicone.

Thanks!


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 11 October 2024 at 19:37
We used the "UV stabilized" Sika 295UV in black obviously. Don't use 291. 

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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: boomjack
Date Posted: 12 October 2024 at 09:39
OK Thanks Wayne! I'll tell the guys.



Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 12 October 2024 at 10:57
This is how the sidewindows Lewmar looks after 12 years with Sikaflex sealing. A other  fact that powder painting on aluminum frames is not a good idea!!! Thanks to Lewmar.
It don’t gives you a save feeling to cross the ocean.


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Wild and Wet
Belgium
545e#268


Posted By: boomjack
Date Posted: 12 October 2024 at 14:50
Whow, It's a side window on a 575?


Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 12 October 2024 at 15:42
No ,on a 545/2010.
I hope for you the one’s on the 575 are better 🙏


-------------
Wild and Wet
Belgium
545e#268


Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 12 October 2024 at 15:46
I take them all 8 out blastsanding ,4 layers epoxy on and after 4 years still no leaks anymore.Tongue

-------------
Wild and Wet
Belgium
545e#268


Posted By: boomjack
Date Posted: 12 October 2024 at 20:18
good to know and yes the quality of all the Lewmar aluminum hatches structure is scandalous!



Posted By: marcopone
Date Posted: 01 January 2025 at 19:18
I agree.
Very bad lewmar frames on all hatches.
The white coating is detaching everywhere.
Unbelievable, Lewmar should be a very experienced company !!


Posted By: Matt1
Date Posted: 02 January 2025 at 16:46
The powder coating is the same issue with the white hatch frames from Lewmar. If it’s any consolation I saw a Hallberg Rassy with peeling white powder coating on hull windows so we aren’t alone :(

I know the replacements are very expensive for the 418 so if / when mine fail I’ll likewise get them blast cleaned and painted 


-------------
Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK



Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 02 January 2025 at 18:04
Painting or powder coating aluminium is not a reliable solution for aluminium finishing in a marine environment, especially if it’s used in a traffic location - feet, fenders or any form of rubbing or abrasion. The surface layer gets broken, even at a microscopic level, corrosion takes place lifting the edges of the surface finish and moisture then begins to track beneath it. The coating then traps the moisture and corrosion accelerates underneath the finish because the aluminium isn’t exposed to enough atmospheric oxygen to form a sufficient oxide barrier to prevent further corrosion. In the marine environment the best anti corrosion finish to use for aluminium is anodising (a controlled thickness of aluminium oxide that is sealed by heating to protect the aluminium underneath) but it needs to be at least 25 microns thick for marine use. Before sealing a dye can be used for different colours for the finished article.
The hatches that are used in powder coated ones will be the same base frames that lewmar will use for their anodised ones. As such I would expect a corroded frame, if not too badly compromised to be suitable for anodising once it has been properly grit blasted with a suitably fine abrasive. Anodising is expensive so prior to doing this you’d need to get prices, but it would allow you to have them done to a thicker coating and have a colour of your choice. Not an easy answer, but will probably give you the longest lasting solution.

Simon


Posted By: marcopone
Date Posted: 02 January 2025 at 19:13
example


Posted By: marcopone
Date Posted: 02 January 2025 at 19:17
this is just an example, every hatch is like this !
horrible and much corroded



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