"old" steering pedestal disassembly
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 370 / 375
Forum Description: 370 / 375 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14875
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:29
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: "old" steering pedestal disassembly
Posted By: Laro88dk
Subject: "old" steering pedestal disassembly
Date Posted: 27 October 2024 at 21:02
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I am looking for a disassembly guide for the "old" type steering pedestal (cubic'ish with a top and bottom), and haven't found one. I have read the "cut the sikaflex in the middle, and loose the M6 nuts" posts - but I would like to be sure before resorting to violence :-) What do I need to loosen and in which order - and is there anything that I need to pay special attention to? Regards Jes 370e #326 ------------- Jes, DK, 370e #326 |
Replies:
Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 28 October 2024 at 10:05
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The cut the sikaflex is correct as is the undo the M6 nuts and remove the grab rail. You also need to remove the wheel and the plate around the boss that is screwed to the console, I’m also assuming that you’ve also removed any electronics as well ( the M6 nuts can be accessed through their mounting holes, but it is awkward). Having removed mine twice, I found that it was a lot easier to do with the help of a second person to pull the console towards them while you cut the sikaflex with a suitably sharp knife. I always found that it was easier to start with them pulling the console towards the wheel side and you starting to cut the sikaflex at the front and edges of the console. Hope this is useful Simon
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Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 08 October 2025 at 21:11
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All, I have to do this job too. Have you used a stanley knife or something like a wire cutter to separate the parts? Is it also necesarry to separate the polyester housing to access the aluminium structure?
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Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 09 October 2025 at 00:09
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I used a Stanley knife to carefully cut the sikaflex. Once you have removed the top section the alloy head of the steering mechanism is accessible. When I removed the top section of the pedestal I replaced the top bearing and re shimmed it to remove play in the wheel. Hope this is useful Simon
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Posted By: Laro88dk
Date Posted: 09 October 2025 at 05:35
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Any chance you have some pictures you can share? Regards Jes ------------- Jes, DK, 370e #326 |
Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 09 October 2025 at 08:08
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Thanks sgrhma2! I have removed the compass and can see the top of the steering mechanism. I also believe I have a damaged bearing of the steering mechanism and need to do some repairs on the cover. I'll make make some wooden wedges to open the cover where I've cut the Sika.
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Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 04 December 2025 at 13:26
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Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 04 December 2025 at 13:28
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Tried to remove the pedestal (top part) yesterday. Had to cut the Sika with a multitool. In the inside it seems there is some grey cement-ish epoxy used to glue the parts together. Idea now is to make a SS chisel to break this epoxy. Any thoughts?
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Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 04 December 2025 at 13:30
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Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 04 December 2025 at 20:05
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It does look like there is something around the joint. Is it a mastic or is it hard like a resin? I can also see that your top bearing in the pedestal is well and truly gone! It’s a standard off the shelf bearing size. When I replaced mine, I managed to find a cheap stainless bearing. The hard part is shimming the shaft to remove play in the steering. Once I finished the setup I bonded a GRP disc over the hole in the top plate that the bearing sits in to prevent any water from running down round the bearing (which I suspect is the main reason the original bearing failed). You don’t need a high end bearing for this as there is negligible load on it and rotational speed again is negligible. The bearing that is used I suspect is a relatively common wheel bearing, so it’s use in the steering mechanism comes no where near loads and stresses is designed for. As mentioned earlier, moisture ingress is the greatest threat to its service life. Hope this is useful Simon
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Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 05 December 2025 at 10:32
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It is like a hard resin. Maybe the same putty they use to bond the deck to the hull. The bearring is indeed gone :-) Do you have any info on the type you used? Thanks for the tip to add a GRP disc over the hole. Once it is lose I can tap some thread in the cover.
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Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 05 December 2025 at 13:33
| Bearing: ZBB-6008 2RS 40*68*15mm |
Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 05 December 2025 at 14:01
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I bought my bearing from Simply Bearings. When I bought it the stainless bearing was just over £15. https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=2147043&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=22536166001&gbraid=0AAAAAD-_g0HDf2oFY1LJkbV1Mtkzrzwj1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwsKn1MimkQMVjphQBh2-xCNZEAQYBSABEgKCAfD_BwE" rel="nofollow - https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=2147043&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=22536166001&gbraid=0AAAAAD-_g0HDf2oFY1LJkbV1Mtkzrzwj1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwsKn1MimkQMVjphQBh2-xCNZEAQYBSABEgKCAfD_BwE As regards the GRP disc to cover it on reassembly, rather than drilling and taping holes in the alloy cover I think it is better to bond it on with a silicon as the acetic acid in it will etch the aluminium for a good bond and it will give an all round seal against water ingress. Getting the old bearing off can be difficult, you’ll need a good puller, but even with that I had to use a grinder very carefully to split the inner race before I could remove it. Agin if, as on my boat, the existing shims have corroded away, you’ll need to order replacements from Jefa and make an educated guess from the bits of the old ones. Under shimming and you’ll have play and knocking in the steering, over and you’ll have tight steering and gear and bearing ware. Correct shimming you’ll have no play and finger light steering. Simon
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Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 05 December 2025 at 15:21
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Hi SImon, Thanks. I just ordered an Stainless Steel bearing with plastic covers. Hope no water will come in the bearings anymore. My first worry now it to get the piece of crap off the boat ;-) I'll then wait to glue the top lid on again, when the play is shimed out. |
Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 05 December 2025 at 16:08
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If your top half of the pedestal has been put on using a resin, it’s been done by someone other than Hanse as they only ever used a polyurethane mastic to bond them together. From my experience working with GRP and from what I can make out in your photos, I would probably use a multimaster with an abrasive tool to gently cut through the resin along the inner edge of the moulding. At the corners I’d probably switch to a very narrow tool in the multimaster about 10 - 8mm wide. If you can’t find one you can make one by cutting down an existing abrasive cutter using a grinder, but be careful doing it. If you do this, you’ve got to be very careful, all you want to do is to cut through the resin, not into the top or bottom pedestal mouldings. It’ll be a fairly long and laborious process, but be careful and take your time and you won’t damage the mouldings. When reassembling use only sikaflex to join the mouldings and mask top and bottom moulding with tape to give a nice clean finish to the job. Don’t forget to order shims from Jefa, as I’d be amazed if your old ones are still useable. Also when reassembling the mechanism use an anti corrosion grease to ensure that it can be dismantled again if it ever needs to be. Good luck👍 Simon
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Posted By: sgrhma2
Date Posted: 05 December 2025 at 16:41
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I also meant to say that, even though you’ve got a bearing with seals, you should still bond a cover over the hole in the top plate as you don’t want any water down there after you’ve sorted it all out. With aluminium, mild steel shims and a stainless bearing it’s still a breeding ground for bimetallic corrosion if it get wet. So coat everything with anti corrosion grease on assembly, clean the top plate by lightly sanding and wipe with a cloth dampened with acetone and bond the cover over the hole. Simon
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Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 05 December 2025 at 19:44
| Thanks Simon |
Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 30 December 2025 at 09:45
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An update from the pedestal project. I have tried multiple solutions to cut through the "resin". Found it was an undoable job and decided to cut the pedestal in half.   It was quiet a job to remove the corroded bearing.  Reparing unused holes and make new holes  Almost there  |