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Steps

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 300 / 301
Forum Description: 300 & 301 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=15086
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:29
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Steps
Posted By: PabloPicasso
Subject: Steps
Date Posted: 02 May 2025 at 08:18
How are the companionway steps/engine cabinet attached to your hull? 

Mine do not seem to be attached very well, and creak and move a fraction. 

I might use a seam of sealant/adhesive around the contact points to help it, or should I tab it in with glass matt and epoxy? 




Replies:
Posted By: Mergus
Date Posted: 12 May 2025 at 18:40
Mine are just "standing"on the floor and attached to the engine case with two light hooks. Doesn't look the strongest though, but on the other hand most of the weight goes directly down to the floor. Haven't seen myself any need to reinforce them


Posted By: Bitbaltic
Date Posted: 21 May 2025 at 19:40
Originally posted by Mergus Mergus wrote:

Mine are just "standing"on the floor and attached to the engine case with two light hooks. Doesn't look the strongest though, but on the other hand most of the weight goes directly down to the floor. Haven't seen myself any need to reinforce them

Exact same configuration which is standard from build. Boat is 24 years old now and no issues with movement or weight on the steps whatsoever.

Strongly advise the OP against bonding the steps to the engine box as it is the only practicable access to the engine. That said, to check the raw water strainer still requires removing the shelf above. I’ve meant for years to find a quick release solution for this but done nothing as yet.


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Posted By: PabloPicasso
Date Posted: 21 May 2025 at 23:30
Its the engine box that moves and creaks.  I'm not bonding  the steps to the engime box.

Do service agents remove the engine box to access the engine?

Anyone fitted quick release bolts to the gearbox cowling to. Make access quicker? 


Posted By: Mergus
Date Posted: 22 May 2025 at 19:22
Hi, In general I would not expect the service agents to remove the full engine box to access the engine, as all the key components are accessible through the 1) steps, 2) stb hatch, 3) aft hatch and ultimately as Bitbaltic mentioned 4) the top hatch. The only reasons to remove the full engine box could be (just guessing) change of engine, or change of S-Drive, or potentially change of S-Drive rubber sealing. Anyways a major rehaul should be needed to remove the full engine box. However, still I would not suggest laminating the box as there might come the time where you want to get it off... And it would be bloody difficult if you have laminated it.

Maybe as a first step I would check how the compartment is attached to the port wall. Likely those screws are bit loose now so maybe just fill those holes with epoxy to get better grip?


Posted By: Mergus
Date Posted: 22 May 2025 at 19:24
Regarding the raw water filter, I am just puzzling with the same issue. Thinking about lowering about 10cm so that one could check it easily. But still work/design in progress


Posted By: stownsend
Date Posted: 24 May 2025 at 10:49
Hi All

I take off the top white board (4 screws) of the step setup when I'm servicing the engine as it give more light in, you are right though, for regualry maintenance, unhook the steps (2 clips and a wooden bar to hold in place) and usually I'll removed the full fibreglass sunnound to the aft of the engine (again 6 screws) otherise the 2 hatches and steps is more than enough.

My set up is a wooden frame screwed to the 2 bulkheads and its quite secure.

Cheers

Stu


Posted By: PabloPicasso
Date Posted: 24 May 2025 at 11:00
I added 2 small metal brakets & 4 acrews to the back strboard side of the box. 
Attached to a wooden block that is glued undwr the cockpit. 

Seems to have formwd it up




Posted By: sailingfree
Date Posted: 30 May 2025 at 07:42
Hi, yes Mergus is right, you or a contractor will need to remove the engine box when replacing the saildrive seal. I’ve done that twice and the only way is to have full access to the entire engine so it can be moved forwards when removing the gearbox/saildrive. 

Like others have said I also remove the top cover screws to access the raw water filter, 4 screws are not a problem.

Pete


Posted By: Bitbaltic
Date Posted: 30 May 2025 at 20:55
I’ve had the saildrive gaiter replaced twice in my ownership- the most recent last month- but the work not done by me. I’m sure the box has not been dismantled to do this; I could be wrong but it sure doesn’t look like it. 

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