Selden Jib Furler
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 505/508
Forum Description: 505/508 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=15106
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 23:50
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Selden Jib Furler
Posted By: Vitomita
Subject: Selden Jib Furler
Date Posted: 13 May 2025 at 09:56
| Hello, again just got my 505, I am noticing furling and unfurling the jib requires winching it, is that normal on this boat? |
Replies:
Posted By: FalParsi
Date Posted: 13 May 2025 at 11:52
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Same on my 505. The below deck setup protects the furler nicely but does introduce extra friction. ------------- 2016 Hanse 505 #120 |
Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 13 May 2025 at 14:21
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This has been the case with the thru-deck furling set-up on our 575
a few times. Each time I have been able to fix it by making sure
that things are running free and the line has no riding turns in the
drum, For example: Sometimes the furling
drum somehow moves to a position which does not well support the angle
of the furling line coming thru the deck. In this case, you need to
re-align the furling drum. Not a big deal. The
other thing I saw a problem in (and fixed) is the furling system head
unit. The standard (see picture) looks like a coffee cup and the load
is all on one side. It binds and causes excess friction on the
bearings. Especially with high tech halyards and/or membrane sails.
The new unit (see picture) has a much more even pull from the halyard
and is far stronger with heavy loads as described.   ------------- Rick S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
Posted By: SVZara
Date Posted: 23 May 2025 at 17:31
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Anyone with the 505 and below deck furler install a powered furler motor for the jib below deck? ------------- Marc S/V Zara 2016 Hanse 505, Hull #129 |
Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 23 May 2025 at 18:57
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Have you thought of just using a powered winch to bring in the jib? If your winch isn't powered, upgrading the winch versus the furler may have more advantages when you consider the money it would cost. Ours were electric from the factory, and we have no issues using the winches to bring in the sail. In fact, you have to be sensitive to powered winches (powered anything) potentially damaging things when a line is stuck or something jammed. ------------- Rick S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
Posted By: Francesca
Date Posted: 27 August 2025 at 08:39
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Bonjour, Même problème sur mon 505, il faut remplacer la boite a rea qui passe à travers le pont par un plus gros diamètre (boite a rea selden 57mm) Il faut agrandir le trou dans le pont, assez facile a la scie sauteuse et finir avec une bonne lime.  Et également les 5 poulies sur chandeliers https://www.bigship.com/catalogue/accastillage-1/poulie-speciale/poulie-simple-o-rea-25-o-cord-8-10mm-pour-chandelier-o25" rel="nofollow - https://www.bigship.com/catalogue/accastillage-1/poulie-speciale/poulie-simple-o-rea-25-o-cord-8-10mm-pour-chandelier-o25 Il faut aussi bien aligner le tambour de l’enrouleur avec la sortie de drosse. Depuis l’enroulement se fait à la main très facilement . Bon courage ------------- H505 |
Posted By: 32mike
Date Posted: 27 August 2025 at 17:26
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I had problems furling my Selden awhile back. Turned out it just needed to be lubed. I found the instructions for doing so online and bought some Selden grease. You do have to take things apart but it wasn’t too technical.Works a lot smoother now. ------------- Mike S/V Dulces Sueños 458 #087 Tampa, FL |
Posted By: Mark Pullen
Date Posted: 28 August 2025 at 10:34
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I had a similar problem with a Facnor LX160 on my 350. I posted a thread about it in the 350 forum. Eventually it became stuck fast. Upshot was that moisture had found its way into the mechanism over many years via the top seals and gummed-up the bearings. Eventually replaced with the same model, which works perfectly. I tried to open up the old mechanism, but the seals were rusted onto the inside of the drum, which prevented me being able to access the circlips that hold the drum to the nose. I eventually cut it open with an angle grinder. The bearings were rusted and broken, the circlips rusted into their slots on the drum and the interior was a solid mass of rust, salt and dust. I was concerned about needing to winch a mechanism that should turn easily. Even in benign conditions it wouldn't turn without some effort. I was most concerned about causing damage to the forestay or the prospect of a jammed drum in high winds, and needing to drop the jib manually. Conclusion for my case was, I should have replaced it the year before. Going forward, I am making sure to spray silicone spray onto the seals top and bottom regularly, and rinsing the outside with fresh water. The interior should be sealed, so this is all on the outside of the drum. First sign of trouble, the drum needs to come off the bow, the seals removed, the interior flushed and new seals fitted. Only problem is that I've not yet found the right seals because Facnor don't sell them, as they consider the drum mechanism to be a non-serviceable part because it's sealed. Hopefully I've a few years before this happens again. ------------- Mark |
Posted By: alohaventura
Date Posted: 02 October 2025 at 18:48
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Hi, Cleaning and lubrication are very important, both on the below deck drum and the upper swivel. This usually solves most excessive friction problems. My upper swivel came to have excess play in it so I purchased a spare that I have not used and no longer need. I would like to sell it cheap, if anyone would like a replacement. Contact me if interested.
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