Forward hatch drains
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 575/588
Forum Description: 575/588 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=15175
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:41 Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Forward hatch drains
Posted By: Black Diamond
Subject: Forward hatch drains
Date Posted: 09 June 2025 at 19:47
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The forward Lewmar hatches on our 575 drain via canals that flow from the hatch above the master cabin into the canals for the sail locker and from there into hoses that drain into the anchor locker. On occasion I clean out the canals with a snake and scrub/wax them so things don't get stuck, but in general you'd think it would work satisfactorily if the trim on our 575 was correct. Gravity is usually pretty dependable.
Our trim is not what it should be.
Our bow sits pretty high out of the water and instead of draining, the water pools back near the hatches and (unless you have a nice clean seal on the hatch) can drip into the boat.
I've tried to trim it out. In addition to our sail locker containing a cruising spinaker, four bicycles (2 of which are e-bikes and thus heavy), a spare anchor, beach accoutrements, boat hooks, spare bike tires, lines, fenders, etc. I've put 30 gallons of bottled water, cases of canned food, cases of dog food (for our 2 dogs), and anything else I could stick in the sail locker. The only thing not standard aft (I assume it matters there as well) is the outboard motor hanging on the stern rail. There is 300' of stainless chain in the anchor locker. All chain, no rope. I've avoided just putting useless ballast in there (lead or iron ingots) for the sake of trim, but I'm getting the feeling I'm HUNDREDS of pounds off. My wife and I standing on the bow does not affect the trim. I'm guess its going to take 500lbs or so to make a dent.
Do others have this issue as well? If so, how did you solve it.
Rick
------------- Rick S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI
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Replies:
Posted By: Arcadia
Date Posted: 09 June 2025 at 21:10
Same here, but has not been a big problem. When water accumulates, there is usually enough pitching fore and aft (even at the mooring), to send the water down the channels. And yes, at times water did sit long enough to come into the hatch and also cause a bit of corrosion on the powder coated frame. I cleaned up around the frame and laid a heavy bead of 5200 around the entire seam where the frame meets the deck. No trouble since then but it won’t last forever.
------------- Leon / ARCADIA 2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY
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Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 09 June 2025 at 23:55
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Did you try to trim it out?
I agree, not that serious, but annoying.
------------- Rick S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI
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Posted By: Arcadia
Date Posted: 10 June 2025 at 03:12
No I didn’t try to trim the bow down. The boat sails well in the current trim and as you discovered, it would take an unreasonable amount of ballast to do the trick.
------------- Leon / ARCADIA 2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY
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Posted By: Pzucchel
Date Posted: 10 June 2025 at 07:12
same here, but not very dramatic either. i see that the water hangs around, but it doesn't have any particular impact on the sail locker content. i have heavy things in the sail locker (two anchors, watermaker secondary tank) and a second forestay that should have a significant momentum effect being very forward. I thought it was more an incorrect design of the water conducts than an incorrect attitude of the boat...this opens another subject: i may have a fraction of a degree tendency of my boat to have a static rolling angle towards port. I have replaced the batteries with lithium surely lighter, and this is true also with the starboard tank full / port empty. the most obvious reflection would be keel misalignment - does anybody see anything similar? again, it's something barely perceptible...
------------- Hanse588#55
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Posted By: Arcadia
Date Posted: 10 June 2025 at 12:08
When my boat was delivered it had about a 1 degree list to port. At the time there were other owners talking similar trim issues across the product range. Others may not have noticed. Anyway, based on the 588 righting moment, it would take about 600 lbs placed 7 feet outboard to heel 1 degree. I solved the issue by moving the isolation transformers (USA ONLY) from port to starboard, installing a second house bank to starboard and adding a bit of ballast behind the galley area.
------------- Leon / ARCADIA 2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY
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Posted By: saildrifter
Date Posted: 01 July 2025 at 05:17
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Our 588 has this issue. Water drains towards the bow but not far enough to drain out of the canals, then pools around the master cabin hatches and causes them to leak. It's a very poor design. We plan to reseal the hatches, but not sure much else can be done...
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Posted By: Pzucchel
Date Posted: 01 July 2025 at 11:12
a simple question: is the hatch water drain badly designed, or the attitude of the boat is wrong and the bow is too high ? do the different keels affect the attitude ? the t-top?
------------- Hanse588#55
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Posted By: Arcadia
Date Posted: 01 July 2025 at 19:06
Bad design for sure. The drainage channels should have been deeper with more of a slope. Easily done because they drain well above the waterline in the chain locker.
------------- Leon / ARCADIA 2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY
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Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 02 July 2025 at 11:08
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This is a old pain in the a…. From the beginning 2009-2010 Hanse start with the Lewmar flush hatches and the bad coating of the alu frames doesn’t help with corrosion and leaking hatches as the result. There are several threads about this on the forum. A other proof Hanse pay no attention on the feedback of their customers 😭🤬
------------- Wild and Wet Belgium 545e#268
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Posted By: Pzucchel
Date Posted: 15 July 2025 at 10:16
another (accidental) reflection. falling asleep on the deck while at a buoy, I realised that the seats on the deck have a slope going down towards the stern. the same is true for the floor below the two tables, and for the tables too. is it the original design intent , or another confirmation we have the wrong "trim"?
------------- Hanse588#55
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Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 15 July 2025 at 12:27
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The cockpit seems to drain well enough. No trim issues there. My only complaint is that the cockpit drains under the table empty into the dinghy below if you don't spend a lot of time with the black strip that apparently is intended to steer the water to the sides. In any event, I always have to leave the plug out in the dinghy so water does not collect.
------------- Rick S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI
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Posted By: Pzucchel
Date Posted: 15 July 2025 at 12:32
I agree , I don't mind the trim here. I simply thought that the overall boat seems to have a consistent trim that's not the intended one ...it could be configuration dependent: I have the t-top and the short keel...
------------- Hanse588#55
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Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 15 July 2025 at 13:03
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Its compounded if you mount something like an outboard on the stern rail, or store spare diesel / gas jugs in the dinghy hanger. I've tried to counter this by putting cases of bottled water, 4 bicycles, a spinaker, and lots of other stuff in the bow locker, but its not enough. I've often thought of putting some old batteries up there, but the trim issue is not a big enough problem.
------------- Rick S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI
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Posted By: Milesfromhere
Date Posted: 10 August 2025 at 12:46
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I have the same problem, the forward hatch ( sail locker ) is marginally higher than the hatch in the cabin, so the water runs back, sits in the channel round the forward cabin hatch, thank leaks into the cabin. Im told I need to replace the seals, which is likely, but any other solutions before I do that?
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Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 10 August 2025 at 14:21
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Just make sure the channels are as clear as possible so that it *EVENTUALLY* runs out.
Beyond that, see the prior comments about adjusting trim by putting extra ballast forward.
------------- Rick S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI
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Posted By: Lyn
Date Posted: 10 August 2025 at 14:40
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If the problem comes from lack of drainage forward, whether through blocked drain channel or weight bias that raises the bow, it would seem that replacing the seal that sits on top of the hatch frame isn't the problem. Do we agree?
I also have this problem: lack of consistent drainage which produces an occasional (not always) leak in the corner of frame of the forward-most hatch. I first thought it might be a leak from one of the screws. So I pulled all those, put a little bit of 3M 4200 in the holes, and then put the screws back in. Didn't seem to be it, so perhaps a compromise of the bead of sealant that was put down on hatch installation? A marina friend pointed me to Captain Tolley's, which appears to be a low-viscosity penetrating sealant. Anyone try this? Or is the only real solution pulling the hatch & re-bedding it? If so, what's the level of effort?
------------- Jon S/V Lyn 2017 Hanse 588 | Hull 19 | Deep draft | 150hp | 220v & 110v systems | Lithium House Bank
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Posted By: Pzucchel
Date Posted: 10 August 2025 at 14:49
I rebedded the hatch. to tell the truth , less difficult than what I had thought . now it's perfectly waterproof. I wish that the hatch aluminum would not have started oxidizing below the paint , it may be difficult to replace it now !
------------- Hanse588#55
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Posted By: kipwrite
Date Posted: 11 August 2025 at 01:08
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I'm not sure this is relevant to the leaky hatch question, but in fiddling with my hatches, over several years, chasing intermittent leaks, I made an interesting discovery: if I close any of the salon or forward cabin hatches with the black 'stays' tightened, I'm probably going to get a leak. The tighter the black stays, the more likely I'm going to see drips. If the black stays (which hold the hatch up- not sure what these are called) are fully loosened, I seem to get a better seal, and perhaps less stress around screw holes that otherwise might be leaky, and no leaks.
My 505 has channels that drain well. I have some peeling paint on the aluminum frames, but this doesn't seem to matter vis a vis leaks. And some cracked plastic trim on the insides - common issues to many of our boats. But also not related to leaks.
Aside from making sure the gaskets are in good shape and seated properly, and all the nuts and screws are snug, closing the windows with no stress on the supports seems to be the answer to leak free hatches.
Not sure exactly how this all works together but it seems to be the answer for my boat.
Anyone else notice this?
------------- Kipwrite
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Posted By: 32mike
Date Posted: 11 August 2025 at 13:50
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Kipwrite, Never thought of that. I think I will adopt that theory. I definitely haven’t always loosened the supports in the last and I have had leaky salon hatches. Good advice. Thanks.
As far as rebedding the hatches, it’s not technically difficult but it is tedious. I’ve done two. There’s scraping, sanding caulking, etc. The paint was peeling in the frames too. I used butyl tape to seal - less messy than caulk. So far, so good. The main problem seems to be the drainage. The seals seem to work fine if there isn’t a constant pool of water sitting in the channels. My galley and aft head hatches have channels with no drainage. Water sits in there all of the time. They don’t leak though, possibly because they don’t have the struts supports to fight against the tight seal?
------------- Mike S/V Dulces Sueños 458 #087 Tampa, FL
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