Bottom Primer Hanse 2006-2007
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 400
Forum Description: 400 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=15404
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:40
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Topic: Bottom Primer Hanse 2006-2007
Posted By: Captain Pasi
Subject: Bottom Primer Hanse 2006-2007
Date Posted: 20 October 2025 at 12:20
| My Hanse 400 needs to be refurbished below waterline. There is light osmosis indications 10-30 cm below waterline (1 mm diameter bulges, no liquid inside). And lot of old antifouling paint. Does somebody have knowledge about the primers used by Hanse maker in the early years of 400 series? If old the primer is 1-component, it needs to be removed before painting with 2-component epoxy primer. But if it would be originally 2-component primer, sanding and cleaning of the old primer surface would be sufficient before new epoxy layers? |
Replies:
Posted By: WEmmens
Date Posted: 20 October 2025 at 19:02
|
In the NL the new Hanses delivered bij the local dealer did as a standard not have any primer/antifouling applied by Hanse Yachts. This was an item in the options list and the dealer could provide it. I've removed all layers of antifouling and primers myself after seven years which was an activity you don't want to do to often. By the way are you sure it is osmosis? I did have osmosis in my rudder two years after delivery but so far the hull is sound. Regards, Wilko
------------- Hanse 400, Mona Lisa, #337, 2007, Yanmar 3JH4E, Flexofold 3bl. |
Posted By: Captain Pasi
Date Posted: 20 October 2025 at 21:36
|
There is small and flat "pimples" surrounding the boat 10-30 cm below the waterline. Antifouling paint chips around the pimple by itself, but old grey primer is solid. This phenomenon is not severe, but may be of same kind of chemical process like osmosis. All primers do not stop water entering in the hull material. Manually removing antifouling is a hard job, primer is at least double hard. Maybe there is no options but scraping both paints
 |
Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 20 October 2025 at 22:03
|
My H400 /2006 was delivered with Hempel 2-comp Light Primer and
Hempel Mille self-polishing antifouling. No osmosis. Mille was a magnet
for barnacles, so I sanded it off and added an extra layer of Light
Primer and Hempel Hard Racing antifouling. Every second year I renew the
antifouling where I add 100g chili-powder (soaked in thinner) to every
liter of Hard Racing (or equivalent hard anti-fouling). The amount of
barnacles on the bottom can be counted with the help of fingers and toes. I
suppose that the combination of copper and chili are responsible for
the magic, because on my saildrive there still has to be cleaned off a
lot of barnacles every year even when I have added chili to the paint. My normal practice is to clean the bottom with high-pressure cleaner, and clean the waterline with Hardol/Metal Polish, and then polish the freeboard. If necessary I dab with antifouling a few places, but I only use the 7½ liters of Hard Racing every second year. The saildrive and bow propeller needs antifouling every year. I have found a picture where Freya is just lifted out of the water - count the barnacles!   ------------- Freya H400 #27 (2006),2-cabin, 40HP 3JH4E, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB) |
Posted By: Captain Pasi
Date Posted: 04 November 2025 at 09:04
| I have ordered sand-blasting with glass grains. After that 6 layers of Hempel or International 2 k epoxy primer to prevent osmosis. Also any other proven 2K primer would go |
Posted By: Ratbasher
Date Posted: 04 November 2025 at 13:01
|
Under the scrutiny of a surveyor advising on an extensive refit I had mine soda-blasted and then epoxied before applying Micron 350 three seasons ago. No signs of osmosis; just preventative as the boat spends 10 months afloat. As an aside, I don't think there's any 'best' antifoul, just what's known to work best in your particular area. ------------- H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard' Gosport, UK |