575/588 - SHAFT COUPLING

why do you want to replace it? I am asking since I feel I am completely ignorant about this part: I watch it, I don't see anything , I assume it is all OK...like I did with the steering chains, up to the moment i had a problem.

how to check it ? verify that there is no corrosion where i can't see?greasing?

That makes it interesting that the Hanse shop not longer supplies our coupling although it is in 2018 boats. They didn't say the Cardan coupling would fit or was a drop-in exchange or offer any input except - here is the Centa email contact. Maybe the replacement will go better than I expect - hope so.

Have you tried Centa directly. Maybe they can steer you to a distributor. I believe you have the correct part number. The only options on that part would be for a 45 mm shaft and the

for the guidance of us mortals , the starting point is here:

https://www.pyiinc.com/downloads/pss-shaft-seal/pss-type-a-pro-seal-instructions.pdf" rel="nofollow - https://www.pyiinc.com/downloads/pss-shaft-seal/pss-type-a-pro-seal-instructions.pdf

and à very nice description here:

https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-pss-shaft-seal/" rel="nofollow - https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-pss-shaft-seal/

With all the situation with my re engine I sed an R&D shaft coupler and a Sureseal Tides marine Shaft Seal.Maybe worth looking into if you are having difficulty with other brands

Wishing you all Happy Sailing

Hi Piero. Looks like this. Just aft of the transmission. Provides a flexible connection for the engine and also a thrust bearing for the shaft. The forward force of the shaft acts rigidly and directly to the hull and NOT to the engine as in conventional installations.

this is a smart idea . in the 588 there are no holes in the wood - but it's probably easier to remove the panels than trying to enter from the engine room side ....i will try it, thanks Leon for the idea.

i completely agree. An opening in the wood - but as low as possible. what is the expected maintenance? admittedly, i am still thinking to what "replace the bellow every 6 years" means: if the bellow is coaxial to the propeller axis - does it mean to it remove the axis??? at least, we're not submarines...but all the rest is nearly unachievable in this very moment for me...

The PSS (Packless Sealing System) Shaft Seal (“PSS”) you are preparing to install is a through-hull fitting that protects against water from entering the boat where the shaft enters the hull, when properly installed and maintained. Make sure that you or your designated installer is a qualified professional, knowledgeable and skilled to install the PSS correctly, and that you have all the required tools and additional equipment on hand before beginning installation. • If removing the engine transmission for repair or if launching the boat without a transmission installed, then the shaft must be kept in place with a device that will secure the shaft with the PSS bellow in its normal “compressed mode”. • Install the PSS ONLY with the boat out of the water. • DO NOT USE oil, grease (petroleum products) or silicone products at any time during the installation. Use soap and water to lubricate the o-rings of the rotor when sliding it down the shaft. • Clean the seal area of your boat so you do not contaminate the seal surface with dirt, oil or other foreign matter. Do not damage or scratch the face of the carbon or the face of the stainless steel rotor during unpacking or while handling or installing the PSS. • There should be a total of four (4) set screws in the two holes of the rotor (2 sets screws in each hole). If you must move the stainless steel rotor, make sure to remove the top set screws in order to access the bottom two set screws. • Do not re-use the supplied cupped pointed set screws. If multiple tightening has flattened the cupped-point set screw, replace the affected screw with a new one. • There should be a total of four (4) hose clamps securing the bellows ends. These clamps should be replaced if they show any sign of corrosion. • Do not slide the aft bellow cuff too far down over the stern tube. The leading edge of the stern tube could cause damage to the inner ribs of the bellow and improperly limit the bellow movement and travel. • If fitting a vent line (boats under 12 knots), do not run a loop at the top end of the hose as this could promote a siphon. • If the boat sits idle for a long period of time (generally 3 months or more), it is necessary to move the carbon face back to allow a small amount of water to enter the boat. • As with any hose under the waterline, the PSS bellows must be inspected on a regular basis (i.e., no less than at least every 6 months under most circumstances) and checked for any signs of deterioration (cracks, splits, tears, brittleness, or other signs). Upon any sign of deterioration the bellow must be replaced. As preventive maintenance the bellow should be replaced no less than every 6 years on the Type A Seal, and 8 to 10 years on the PSS PRO Seals, regardless of its apparent condition. • Do not allow any petroleum-based liquid or corrosive material to come in contact with the PSS. Take care to ensure that this does not occur, for example, when performing any general maintenance, or winterizing the engine. • The shaft should be near centered and run parallel to the shaft log. • Do not use an ozone generator (e.g., air cleaner) in or around your boat. The extra ozone will speed up the deterioration of any rubber product, including the PSS bellow. • The bellows will need more frequent inspection and replacement in an environment where non-sealed batteries emit sulfuric acid vapors. Sulfuric acid vapors will accelerate deterioration of any rubber materials including the PSS bellows. • Do not use sealant to fit the bellow to the stern tube or the hose to hose barb. • Do not run dry. It is imperative that the mating faces of the stainless steel rotor and carbon stator receive adequate water flow to cool and lubricate the seal faces at all times. • Do not use the PSS SEAL on a submarine vehicle

It is my understanding that you need to at a minimum disconnect the shaft from the coupling and move it aft so the PSS seal can slide off the bow end of the shaft and once replaced then slide back along the shaft until it can clamp onto the log (where the shaft comes out of the hull). Once the seal is on, you would reconnect the shaft to the coupling. The other option is to completely remove the shaft, but this would, I think not be necessary just to replace the PSS seal. In my case I will probably replace the shaft, thrust bearing and carrier, cutlass bearing and the PSS seal all at once so the old shaft, PSS seal and cutlass bearing will all need to be removed. Fun and games to look forward to. It is an issue that the access is very poor even for routine maintenance let alone replacement. Very poor design.