2006 model
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 370 / 375
Forum Description: 370 / 375 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=2440
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:29
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Topic: 2006 model
Posted By: ArgleBargle
Subject: 2006 model
Date Posted: 13 September 2008 at 02:48
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Hi
please dont be intimidated by the length of this post.
i'm new here but have been following your threads.
i'm looking seriously at a 2006 model year hanse 370e and i'm trying to compile a list of places to take a closer look/problems.
After reviewing the site I have identified:
-Water heater leaks
-Galley sink drain leaks
-Vent above galley leaks
-antisiphon valve leaks
-Saildrive skirt problem.
-rusty screws/chainplates (A2 vs A4 stainless)
-blocks at base of mast
-fried/melted electrical connections
-problems with jib roller furler (friction)
-fuel tank gage doesnt work
-shower drains poorly
are there any others that anyone can share/enlighten me with as particular places to look?
Has anyone had/heard of any delamination problems?
Apart from the one saildrive that dissolved, any real engine problems?
Any keel bolt problems?
Any problems with teak decks?
Any problems with the single line reefing?
regarding sailing, if you have sailed other similar sized monohulls, how would you characterize the 370 in light airs (with Gennaker) ? in heavier wind (is it more or less tender/seakindly/controllable than similar boats you've been on?)
I know this is a lot to ask in one post from someone who hasnt been here before, but you all seem to generally like your choice and this would be a great help. i promise to contribute anything useful i can to the forum in the future (if i get the 370e, which i suspect i will - if i dont end up with the 370e, I will at least let you know in detail the results of the hull and mechanical surveys and my impressions from the sea trial)
thanks
cheers
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Replies:
Posted By: bovine
Date Posted: 13 September 2008 at 10:47
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Hi
Having read your long post it seems you have trawled through past topics and picked out everything negative. Well i have owned a 315 and a 370e and now a430e all have needed some fettling would i buy a 540e yes when i can give up work and go to the med
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Posted By: ArgleBargle
Date Posted: 13 September 2008 at 11:37
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hi
thanks for the response - was not trying to be too negative
 - i wouldnt be planning on buying it if i wasnt really impressed! its just that at this point i think i know the real positives and want to make certain i'm not missing anything when i have it surveyed.cheers!!
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Posted By: gertha
Date Posted: 13 September 2008 at 19:23
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Hello.
The hanse 370 is a well sorted boat, I proably have one of the higest mile ones and there are no problems with the structure or build quality.
As a boat the 370 is better than most in light winds, if you require a boat to sail most of the time in 25 knots plus then a heavier boat would be better.
What area to you intend to sail in and what sort of sailing do you intend to do ?
Simon
------------- Swanned off |
Posted By: silversailor
Date Posted: 13 September 2008 at 19:53
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I've sailed similar displacement (but shorter, 33 and 34') Pearson monohulls and they didn't handle higher winds as well as my 2006 370. In light air (below 10k) i suggest a genoa or genekker. If you are going to use the genoa for a wide range of sailing, stay with about a 135. In higher winds (15-30K) the self taker is fine. Depending on sea conditions, crew, etc. I consider reefing at 18 K, if I'm flying my 135 genoa, and at 20K+ if I'm flying the self tacker. Because of the size of the main, I suggest a 3rd reef. All in all, I'm very pleased with the 370. The local dealer can also make a big difference. ------------- Silversailor South Haven, MI USA S/V Legacy 2010 Andrews 28 |
Posted By: ArgleBargle
Date Posted: 13 September 2008 at 20:12
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thanks again for the responses. my area is Pacific Northwest US/southwest British Columbia with a wide variety of conditions (lots of calm days in the summer and many blustery fall, winter and spring days where its quite possible to get caught out in a gale) which is why I was wondering about the extremes. plus jaunts to the unprotected west coast of vancouver island. down the road perhaps something farther afield once or twice, but mostly coastal cruising. had been considering the thrid reef in the ginormous main, you seem to confirm that.
good to hear no issues with build quality (except perhaps a few components with lower quality stainless).
i'll let you know what happens
cheers
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Posted By: Peter Russell
Date Posted: 13 September 2008 at 20:22
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Hi
I have a 2008 model 370. Aside from a few snags - resolution down to quality of the dealer and the UK one is good - I have been really happy with it. Sailed in light winds on only a few occasions in the UK this year! Some winds as strong as F8. She is a good boat. Fast with good levels of family comfort. Just been to the Southampton Boat Show and sadly lacking in purchases so they are well equipped as well! Stainless is possibly a problem. However some other equipment I've put on has 'rusted' as much as any Hanse kit so possibly it is the conditions or the general low quality of fittings today. I agree shower is a problem. Options are to put a sloping floor in the heads - probably not good to stand on - or just mop it out like I do. Possibly a teak grating may solve the problem.
I sail short handed and can reef both main and head on my own without help when I need to. Other issues have not been a problem for me.
Hope this helps. ------------- Peter Russell Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered" http://outnumbered.the-russells.net" rel="nofollow - http://outnumbered.the-russells.net |
Posted By: colincooper
Date Posted: 14 September 2008 at 11:15
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I think you need to split your list into things you want the surveyor to check and design quirks of the 370 e.g. I can't see the shower floor draining being something you want to pay a surveyor to look at.
It would be interesting to see a surveyor view of the main load-bearing fittings i.e. chainplates, anchor roller, fitting of cleats etc. I suppose you also need to check that the regular maintence has been done - for example to the engine - and that there have been no major bumps or groundings. I can't think of much else to check on a 2 year old boat.
One advantage you have of buying a 2006 build boat is that you won't get the new plexiglass windows. On the 2006 model all windows are standard Lewmar fittings IMHO a big advantage when looking toward future maintenance (and I think better looking too).
And being a very happy owner of a 2006 370 I'd heartily recommend them. ------------- Colin (owner of Hilde - a 370) |
Posted By: digme
Date Posted: 14 September 2008 at 13:38
Don't use too much time on the small issues (like galley sink leaks and shower drain). Some of the issus are simple to check (either it works or it doesn't). The A2/A4 bolts issue is resolved bylooking at the markings. I have A2 and they haven't been a problem. I guess additional factors like air pollution and how often you're able to clean the boat with sweet water are important.
Hanse seems to have a bad record when it comes to water heaters. You should look for rust as well as leaks.
Jib furler should be checked. Note that it's important to check the top of the furling profile and to check the forestay. Furler friction may translate to forstay wear. (Not a specific Hanse problem, but general advice.)
Mast base blocks haven't been much of an issue in my case, but they're not optimal for 12mm rope. Because the quality of the standard halyard is poor you should replace at least the mainsail halyard with a 10mm dyneema or similar quality.
Another important spot is the mast base that shoud be checked for signs of fatigue, and correct stepping of the mast. (Again, this is not a specific Hanse problem. You should pay attention to this spot on any second hand boat.)
Indeed, but such problems are difficult to spot if they are from production rather than the result of impact.
You should look carefully for gelcoat stress cracks. If you inspect that boat on shore you should look carefully at the hull area around the keel to spot any rust leaks, and aft area for any cracks (compression cracks hat may be caused by impact).
Again, look for damage to the reefing blocks in the sail, and any damage to the sail. |
ArgleBargle wrote:Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 14 September 2008 at 17:08
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ArgleBargle - if you like, send me a PM, it would be great to make the acquaintance of another Pacific NW Hanse owner...
Steve (Hanse 400e)
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Posted By: jnickol
Date Posted: 16 September 2008 at 14:17
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I have 2006 Hull # 3 370e and while there are some minor issues as you will have with most boats, the majority of the issues you mentioned I have not encountered on our boat. We sail in Newport RI and regularly have winds in the 25-27 kts range and love the way the boat handles the breeze. It also sails well in the light stuff. We recently sailed her into Nantucket Harbor in 6-7' seas with 30 kts winds and she handled herself with great ease under main only. We take this boat on 5-7 days cruises each year to Martha's Vinyard, Nantucket and Block Island and have never encountered any mechanical issues along the way.
Of the things on your list, I have had only the following:
Shower drain is slow. There is a new thred on a teak insert to help with this problem.
Electrical issue with the anchor windlass relay switch. This was fixed by Hanse and there are threads in forum for this fix.
Other than these two issues, we have had nothing but joy and happiness with this boat.
Good luck and you will be happy you purchased a Hanse 370!!!
------------- Jeff Hanse 370e # 3 |
Posted By: lukemi
Date Posted: 16 September 2008 at 17:13
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I have a 2007 hull (Delivered in Dec 2006) #166. Whenever I see a quality issue posted on this forum, I always go back to my boat and check to see if I have the same issue. In almost every cases, either I do not have an issue, or it is so minor that it does not concern me. I would not get overly concerned about the minor issues on these posts.
In buying a used boat, I would be more concerned with previous maintenance and care. Has the boat every hit hard ground, had the hull ever scraped other boats, has all engine maintenance been performed, etc. If modifications were performed on the boat, were they done by a reputable installer.
Hanse is not the elite of boats, hence we did not pay for the best. It is certainly not the bottom rung of boats either. I think the package is a reasonable selection of materials from reputable vendors. The hull design and performance are as good as if not better than other boats that I race in my local sailing club. Performance is much better than Hunter, Catalina and CC that I also race on. As a crusing boat, I like Sabre and Island Packet better for comfort but they have bad sailing performance. For looks I like my neighbors Tayana (nice wood) but again, the Hanse has much better sailing performance. Not worth the trade off.
Regards, Mike
Stella Maris #166
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Posted By: ArgleBargle
Date Posted: 19 September 2008 at 01:10
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hi
thanks again for all of the respones.
did the sea trial in 10-20 kts wind. generally quite impressed. thoughts:
i'll post more after the survey.
cheers
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Posted By: colincooper
Date Posted: 19 September 2008 at 09:42
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Glad you liked it. We have the 2006 model too which has different quirks to current models.
For example, the 2006 tank gauge is a meter (not an LED bar chart). It works much better than the LEDs. It does have a minor problem in that it moves much faster as the tank empties - so that you are almost empty when showing half full. If you look at the shape of the tank (a wedge pointing down) you will see why. Not a problem if you know what to expect.
The self tacker is fine if a reasonable wind. I think that people would like a bigger headsail in lighter winds. One solution is to use code 0s, cruising code 0s and/or aysmetric spinnakers in light winds. That way you still retain use of the self tacker in stronger winds. For cruising, the ability to tack very easily single-handed is fantastic. The standard self-tacker benefits from secondary sheeting when off wind to retain a good shape. You can also use the secondary sheets to heave-to.
You can fit a main traveller in the cockpit if you don't like the cabin-top one. All the reinforcing plates are embedded in the GRP ready for that. It is just a question of whether you want a less effective traveller out the way or a more effective one that gets in the way. All depends on your sailing style.
You found handling to be very easy. That is definately one of the advantages of the 370. She is a very well behaved boat under sail and power.
Sounds like the furler might be jamming somewhere. Could just be the control rope. Or a sagging forestay; was the backstay tensioned up?
------------- Colin (owner of Hilde - a 370) |
Posted By: Flemse
Date Posted: 19 September 2008 at 10:27
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Hi Collincooper.
can you please explain how you rig the jib for down wind/broad reach sailing ? and if you have a photo it would be great! I already have bought the gennaker kit ( pin,sheets and blocks) but the sail and snuffer must wait...(have to by food for the family) 
Kind regards Flemse "FreeSpirit " 370 ------------- flemze@mac.com |
Posted By: colincooper
Date Posted: 19 September 2008 at 11:39
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You need to add a secondary sheet and there are various ways to do it. You could just use the standard tracks for a gonoa - but they don't really work well for the jib when a long way off the wind. They are in the wrong place for that. However this is the simplest "fixed" solution.
We cruise and so have long legs with the wind from the same direction. When going off the wind I run an extra sheet on the lee side. I find simply running it from the winch then through my amidships cleat and then up outside to the sail works fine. Rig it up and then slacken off the primary sheet. That way all you need is a short piece of spare rope. This is fine for ad-hoc trimming of the jib. It also means that the sheets aren't there all the time messing up the boat and being a trip-hazzard.
A better way to do it is to add a block - either on the amidships cleat or fixed to the toerail. Hanse UK online shop does a fitting that lets you add a block to the toerail very easily. The problem with a fixed arrangement is whether to run inside or outside. That will vary depending on how far off the wind you go. I don't bother with this until far enough off the wind to go outside. Leaving it fixed there all the time on the outside is not ideal.
I don't have a picture but can add one later if this isn't clear. ------------- Colin (owner of Hilde - a 370) |
Posted By: Flemse
Date Posted: 19 September 2008 at 18:09
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Thanks Colin
it sounds like a nice and simple solution- i will give it a try! Flemse ------------- flemze@mac.com |
Posted By: ArgleBargle
Date Posted: 25 September 2008 at 05:12
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well, both the sea trial and survey are now done (awaiting the engine inspection).
my surveyor was very thorough and rather a critical fellow (which i think is good in a surveyor, but does lead to a lengthy list of sometimes minor criticisms). there were a bunch of minor problems, a few quality issues, and a couple of things particular to this specific boat (one of which is bothersome, but has nothing specifically to do with hanse).
however, i was wondering if anyone would comment on the following two points brought up which are more on my mind:
1. stainless rod chainplate/linkage (in cabin) seem small (i personally have never heard of these fracturing in a hanse, and it sounds like you folks are taking them out in big wind, although i admit they seem considerably smaller than those i've seen in comparable boats).
2. there was a trace of surface rust at the upper aspect of the iron strut of the keel - has anyone seen that? how worrisome do you consider this? surveyor wouldnt come down hard one way or the other (said prob minor, but could be major and would have to drop the keel to see)
he had some comments about mildly sloppy job with which the bulkheads were tabbed on (although at least they are tabbed on, unlike some other manufacturers), the glassing around the water tank had dehisced, didnt like scuppers draining into the aluminum steering linkage compartment under the cockpit sole, lack of true stuffing box for the rudder column etc but none of it was very damning. it is a very well laid out boat - seems more comfy everytime i get in.
thanks! and more to come after the engine survey.
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Posted By: ArgleBargle
Date Posted: 09 October 2008 at 06:21
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just thought I would update to say that after the sea trial, survey, mechanical inspection, negotiations and discussions, I bought the 2006 370e.
sincere thanks to everyone for their very useful input and opinions.
i hope to be joining your forum more in the future.
if you want to know my (hardnosed) surveyor's criticisms of some design issues, I would be happy to share.
cheers
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Posted By: Peter-Blake
Date Posted: 09 October 2008 at 10:24
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Congratulations to your new boat ------------- Blake 370 
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Posted By: Oddmund
Date Posted: 09 October 2008 at 12:29
Pls share your "hardnosed" surveyor's criticism ------------- S/Y Havsula. 370#569 |
Posted By: bovine
Date Posted: 09 October 2008 at 23:14
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Hi Is this the 370e hanse uk at the hamble were selling
David
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