Diesel in Bilge
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Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 370 / 375
Forum Description: 370 / 375 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=2475
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:29
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Topic: Diesel in Bilge
Posted By: lukemi
Subject: Diesel in Bilge
Date Posted: 29 September 2008 at 14:35
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When I got to my boat this past Friday evening, expecting to relax and have a nice diner, I opened the boat and smelled diesel fuel in the main cabin. After pulling up the floor boards, I found the bilge full of fuel. I spent the next 3 hours soaking up 2 gallons of fuel and washing down the bilge. I traced the fuel back to where I believe?? the leak was coming from. There is a filter on the fuel tank that has a peacock value at the bottom. This value had a drop of fuel ready to drop. I turned this value 3 turns counter clockwize until seated. Now the guessing starts. On conversations with my dealer, he indicates this is a water strain valve that should only be open to remove water from the fuel. If so, why has this been open for the last 2 years without a problem? No one has ever had access to this area. (Can anyone confirm this is the use of this valve?). Is there any reason this value should have been open? Is it possible this is a fuel cutoff valve? The only unusual activity here is this is the first time I have completely filled the boat tank and left it that way for 3 weeks. Maybe the the level forced fuel into the filter until it leveled out??? So, if anyone has any thoughts, thanks for the info. Also, a maintenance question. My dealer said that he does not believe that filter is available in the US markets. How often should this type of filter be replaced and has anyone tried to get a replacement? Regards, Mike Stella Maris 370e#166 |
Replies:
Posted By: digme
Date Posted: 29 September 2008 at 16:32
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I guess the filter in question is the water separator and coarse fuel filter. I don't know what filter Hanse ships with US boats, but I've got a C.A.V 296 separator/filter. (The CAV brand name may have changed to Lucas or Delphi) A water separator for the fuel system should have some kind of a bottom valve or similar to drain out water.
The C.A.V. filter is 8 micron and it may be replaced once a year (and more frequelntly if your boat gets the diesel bug).
An alternative to the CAV unit may be a smal Racor separator/filter.
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Posted By: lukemi
Date Posted: 29 September 2008 at 17:14
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Some good information. It makes sense to have a water seperator and hense the valve should be closed unless extracting the water. My dealer and I just can not explain why the valve was open for 2 years without a problem. The boat had to have been delivered with the valve open but I never noticed any fuel in the bigle (never had to pull up flooring). My dealer did hint that I might have to replace this assembly with a Racor since parts are available in the US. It may be worth checking on all new boats to be sure this valve is closed. This may eliminate a potential overflow of fuel like I had. Thanks for the reply.
Mike
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Posted By: Peter-Blake
Date Posted: 29 September 2008 at 17:33
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What i am wondering about:
Did you have any inspection of your motor so far.
When my yanmardealer inspected my motor he checked this valve too. It is part of the regular inspection. Did you not motor 50 hrs so far in 2 years? Because after 50hrs that is the first time to inspect it ------------- Blake 370 
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Posted By: Brightside
Date Posted: 29 September 2008 at 20:54
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'The only unusual activity here is this is the first time I have completely filled the boat tank and left it that way for 3 weeks.'
Maybe the drain at the bottom of the filter/water separator is not the problem but you may have a poor seal to the top of the tank, either the fuel gauge sender, inspection plate, the filler pipe, air breather pipe, fuel delivery, fuel return or heater fuel pipework. Regards Mike. |
Posted By: 371-#235
Date Posted: 29 September 2008 at 21:03
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Hi Mike,
I had some trouble sourcong filters for the Delphi filter that was shipped with Blondie but finally found them at a diesel truck parts place.
Last year I changed the whole thing out for a good old RACOR 500FG filter assembly and now I can buy filters at hundreds of marine supply places. I think the RACOR filter is much better quality than the Delphi one and it's easily the standard one used in the industry.
It was an easy job and I didn't have to re-bleed my diesel system - just installed it then used the hand priming pump lever on the side of the fuel lift pump on the Yanmar engine to refill the new filter assembly. It has operated without a problem ever since.
A highly recommended upgrade!
Bob
371-#235 "Blondie"
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Posted By: Stella*Nova
Date Posted: 30 September 2008 at 10:03
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Three years ago as I want to change the delphi filter for the very first time in my last Hanse 341, I detected that the little faucet at the bottom of the glass was not to open. I checked it a saw that there was some sikaflex between glass and faucet. Possibly it was to avoid exactly was has happened to you lukemi. On my Hanse 370 I didn't check it yet but next week I have the 50hrs inspection and I will ask the engineer to check it as well.
As far as I heard the bad diesel smell is easy to remove from your boat. Distribute some cups with vanilla sugar in the cabin. The should absorb the bad aroma (didn't test it by myself).
Thanks for sharing this problem with us - good luck
Ralf
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Posted By: lukemi
Date Posted: 30 September 2008 at 13:21
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"Vanilla Sugar", that's an interesting solution for diesel fuel smells. I will have to try this and see if it helps. Luckly all the fuel spill was contained on the fiberglass floor so most of the problem was contained with cleanup of the bilge. An internet search suggested using "Orange Glow" cleaner for this also. Well this coming weekend we are on an extended weekend trip to Baltimore Harbor. It will be a good time to clean all surfaces. Thanks for the suggestions. I think that the RANCOR filter is a near term solution/upgrade for filter availability. Looks like the container is easy to change.
Thanks for info. Mike
Stella Maris
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Posted By: Stella*Nova
Date Posted: 30 September 2008 at 14:23
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I checked it again - its almost the same, almost. The right powder ist baking soda - not vanilla sugar. I found it in a german forum - its not my experience. Another hint was to put coffee powder in a cup. Sorry for confusion. ------------- BR Ralf, Ex. 'a mare' H370 |
Posted By: Mark Johnston
Date Posted: 11 October 2020 at 05:39
| we have a persistent diesel tank leakage in 47e . Not the fuel filter valve problem described here, thank you though. The fuel is swilling beneath the aft bunk bilges and Most evident after heeling to windward on either tack for several hours. It is not over full as this is avoided when refueling. First thought it was the open/close cock on pipe leading to webasto heater in the aft lazarette. Turned this valve off however diesel is still persistently accumulating underneath the tank in aft cabin. All fittings on the tank are securely sealed. Does anyone have anyone ideas? Thanks. - wifey. |
Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 11 October 2020 at 09:47
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The search function in this forum is a magnificent thing: Search>advanced search>any date>"whatever you search for"> .....and you may find: https://www.myhanse.com/leaking-fuel-tank_topic11128_post92401.html?KW=Diesel#92401" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/leaking-fuel-tank_topic11128_post92401.html?KW=Diesel#92401 I had a problem with the diesel/water filter. When I changed the filter cartridge, I did not realise, that the cartridge was a couple of millimeters too short, so the glass-bottom could not be screwed tight enough towards the filter. The bolt was simply too long. At first (with 1/4 tank diesel) nothing happened. When I later filled the diesel tank the fuel leaked alround the gasket. I discovered this too late, and had a lot of fun cleaning the sump of bad-smelling diesel. My solution to the problem was to place two stainless washers on the base
of the bolt, so the glass-bottom was real tight with the filter. The
replacement filter was a original Yanmar spare part, so this ought not to have
happened. In this case, the "Original Yanmar Part" filter was too short. To MIke: The water separator is supposed to be emptied every 50 enginehours. You can find an Operation Manual at wesailhanse.se. The CAV filter element is available all over the world.
------------- Freya H400 #27 (2006),2-cabin, 40HP 3JH4E, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB) |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 11 October 2020 at 11:28
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I had constant problems with a leaking filter, until it was suggested it might be a CAV clone. Sure enough when I changed it for a genuine one (Delphi now) the problem ceased. Hanse had supplied a clone. is it possible that leaks at the drain off screw could be due to the flexible washer corroding away?
------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: StavrosNZ
Date Posted: 11 October 2020 at 21:53
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When i first purchased my 400 i had diesel in the bilge after sailing and heeling, what i discovered was the main inspection port in the top of the tank (plastic tank and large diameter plastic screw in, inspection port) was leaking around the 0-ring as boat heeled. I removed the inspection port, increased the diameter of the very large o-ring on the lid and seated it with vasaline, hand tight only. Fixed the problem. likewise check your diesel tank sender unit to make sure this is not leaking either. ------------- Stephen 2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
Posted By: Mark Johnston
Date Posted: 19 October 2020 at 04:32
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hi again , I have now replaced the clear dish at bottom of filter with new dish from a Ryco brand filter set- purchased from car parts (supacheap auto) stores and discarded the remainder of the Ryco filter parts, favouring the existing Hanse filter casting. Also purchased a new WIX filter and both dish and filter fit into the existing Hanse filter casting but for tiny sanding around the glass dish hole. Replaced all gaskets and O rings. NOW: Does one need to pour diesel into the dish to prime it after installation?? -wifey Answering myself: yes must bleed system as engine didn’t run. Undo auto fuel pump return hose. Pour fuel into tank filter to fill bowl and pump it through for ages. Running now perfectly. It is a new engine with 1000 hrs. A Yanmar 4JH5E. - Wifey
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Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 19 October 2020 at 08:24
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When mounting a new filter, you do not need to prime the water separator before bleeding the air. The Operation Manual is available on the net. On wesailhanse.se the Operation Manual is in swedish, and the procedure for draining the filter (every 50 hours of engine time), is described on page 63. You are supposed to turn the bolt at the top of the filter a few turns when opening the water crane at the bottom of the filter. The little lever to pump diesel is described at page 39 in the manual. The engine has an automatic function to bleed air from the system, but when changing the filter you need to use the manual pump. ------------- Freya H400 #27 (2006),2-cabin, 40HP 3JH4E, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB) |
Posted By: Passatempo
Date Posted: 29 April 2021 at 21:17
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How did you clean the sump? The oil is settling between the hull and the sump. It appears it is not possible to reach out there. ------------- Tom |
Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 29 April 2021 at 22:08
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As I recall. I used quite some time to get rid of the smell. Boiling water with a lot of detergent poured around the thru-hull under the zink, 5-10 liters. (The lowest point of the sump is not where Hanse placed the pump).Wait a day or two, and suck it up with a wet vacuum-cleaner, or whatever device you have access to. I repeated the process several times, and used different liquids to suppress the smell. After some time it worked. It could be worse though. A friend of mine bought a Dehler 41 DS, and by mistake filled the water tank with diesel. Even though he rinsed the tank several times, he still is not using the water from the tank for cooking or drinking. :Kjeld ------------- Freya H400 #27 (2006),2-cabin, 40HP 3JH4E, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB) |
Posted By: kipwrite
Date Posted: 29 April 2021 at 23:20
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Passatempo: There are access points (holes in tray) where you can insert a small hose connected to a pump to draw the water/diesel from the lowest parts of the hull lining. This will take some time as the water/fuel needs to work its way to the lowest points so you can suck it out. When you go for a sail more water/diesel will appear.
Some folks have drilled additional access holes. That practice makes me nervous. I find that water/fuel eventually makes its way to the lowest part of the bilge near these access holes (in my boat these access holes are just forward of the engine compartment.) I’ve used an accessory pump connected to a hand drill to withdraw the liquid from below the tray. Let the water/fuel separate out before proper disposal. If it’s primarily fuel, after you’ve pumped it out, use oil absorbing cloths shoved into the lower hull to sop up the last bits, making sure you leave enough cloth visible through the access hole that you can withdraw it. Again, go for a sail, replace your absorbent rags, and repeat until things are clean. Once most of the fuel is gone, I’d go ahead and add a few gallons of water/liquid bilge cleaner and let that slosh around while you go sailing. Then withdraw that with your pump and place some more absorbent rags, and in a few weeks you’ll be good to go. Rinse and repeat. Not a pleasant job but it can be done, and your boat will smell better. These boats need to be kept dry. Good luck. Be patient and persistent. Keep some bandaids handy. ------------- Kipwrite |
Posted By: Passatempo
Date Posted: 18 August 2021 at 11:23
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Thanks. I have followed your advice to clean the bilge and it worked. Question remains where the diesel was coming from. Fact is that my tank was completely filled up during a hard winter. ------------- Tom |
Posted By: kipwrite
Date Posted: 18 August 2021 at 11:52
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My tank leaked from a plastic return fitting at the top of the tank which cracked when the tank expanded and shifted shape when full. For a time I thought it was the sending unit that was leaking, but rags left in various places at the top of the tank revealed the culprit. Changing the fitting was fairly easy, it was an L shape and available at the hardware store. Just pry it out carefully trying not to damage the rubber bushing. (In my case the leaked fuel completely filled the fiberglass tray that surrounds the tank, and spilled ice cube tray style into the lower bilges - hence my experience cleaning diesel.) To prevent this cracked fitting from repeating, I used a wooden wedge between the top of the tank and the floor, just thicker than the fitting in question. No problem since - and I can fill my tanks to full. ------------- Kipwrite |
Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 18 August 2021 at 18:47
Floor? Do you mean the underside of the bed? I can't remember seeing that hose/pipe fitting. Could you kindly provide a picture? Reason is that when I fill the tank there is allways a large bang from the tank expanding. And that sound like there are many forces inplay. /h8jer ------------- Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin |
kipwrite wrote:Posted By: kipwrite
Date Posted: 18 August 2021 at 19:19
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The wooden wedge is at the top of the fuel tank. On my 505 the fuel tank in question is under the floor, under the dining table. There's a metal plate under the table (beneath the floor) which holds the tank in place, and also serves as a base for the table pedestal. The wedge is between the top the the diesel tank, just under the metal plate, which is just under the floorboards. The wedge was installed so it was snug when the tank was empty. This helps hold the tank's shape when it's full, sparing the plastic fitting at the top, which had previously cracked. (On my boat the fuel tank pick up and return lines are fed through fragile white plastic fittings on the top of the tank. It was one of these fittings that cracked when my tank expanded upwards when full, causing my leak).
------------- Kipwrite |
Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 18 August 2021 at 19:40
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Arh forgot you had the 505. And because of using the mobile forum, I cant see signatures. Now it all makes sense ------------- Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin |
Posted By: Arnaud
Date Posted: 29 August 2021 at 18:14
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Hello, After cleaning the diesel in bilge. Do you have a solution to kill the smell ? Did someone use vinegar with a good result ? Thanks |
Posted By: Passatempo
Date Posted: 30 August 2021 at 08:23
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I used baking soda. Reg ------------- Tom |
Posted By: iemand
Date Posted: 30 August 2021 at 22:44
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how did you do that? ------------- Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007 |