Antifouling selection
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Category: General
Forum Name: Chit Chat
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URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=6049
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Topic: Antifouling selection
Posted By: Brufan
Subject: Antifouling selection
Date Posted: 14 November 2011 at 16:39
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With my previous boat, I was accustomed to using an antifouling (Micron). But my previous boat was not very fast. My Hanse is much faster although I'm not racing. My hull was painted with medium gray self polishing antifouling directly to Greifswald (She arrived at the dealer already painted). I do not know what is the brand of the antifouling. As I am already planning the new season, what is the best antifouling for a (mainly cruising) Hanse. I usually sail in the south of Holland where cultivated mussels and oysters. In my area, the proliferation of shellfish is a real problem. Last summer, I went to inspect the hull. The saildrive that had not been paint was covered with a mass ofshells. Antifouling What needs to be put on the saildrive? Thank you for your advice. ------------- Bruno hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
Replies:
Posted By: Procella
Date Posted: 14 November 2011 at 17:11
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I think that HanseYachts normally use International Micron Extra and it works very well in most conditions. For the saildrive I think International Trilux 33 will do the job. ------------- /Claes Hanse 355, Procella |
Posted By: Peter-Blake
Date Posted: 14 November 2011 at 17:28
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I sail in Netherlands aswell. My homeport is on the ijsselmeer. Our summerholidays we travel over the northsea. This year to Denmark. So the antifouling has to work in salt ond "nonsalt" water. I use micron extra for the hull and trilux for the saildrive. It works perfect. BTW I only paint one layer each year. My boat is in the water from begin of april until end of October (7 month). ------------- Blake 370 
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Posted By: kirkelund
Date Posted: 14 November 2011 at 19:04
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Hi Bruno /Brufan I use Mille Extra for antifouling on the hull. For the propeller and saildrive I use International's Trilux, which is very effective indeed. See this picture of my KiwiProp. The picture shows the propeller right after my boat was lifted out of the water (no washing done). http://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5752&title=trilux-on-kiwiprop" rel="nofollow - http://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5752&title=trilux-on-kiwiprop Ole, ------------- Kirkelund "Amani" Lynetten, Copenhagen, Denmark Hanse 342 (grey hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, Jefa rudder - RUD34) |
Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 14 November 2011 at 20:40
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The very best "antifouling" I have ever used for the saildrive and propeller is 'Pellerclean' made by Seajet. The kit costs about £45 and comprises epoxy base coats followed by silicon finishing coats. My saildrive and propeller emerge at the end of each season absolutely clean. In my experience the coating lasts a minimum of three years. There is also plenty of silicon left over should you wish to touch up each year. The £45 kit is sufficient for two or possibly 3 saildrives and propellers, so you could share with other boats. I introduced this product to my Yacht Club 7 years ago and many members have now used it without any complaints. Charles ------------- 'MERIDIAN LADY' 320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
Posted By: alidal
Date Posted: 15 November 2011 at 08:38
On my boat they have used International`s "Trilux" (Hanse 400, 2010) ------------- Hanse 400#655 |
Brufan wrote:Posted By: echoofwight
Date Posted: 15 November 2011 at 13:42
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I use Hempel Tiger Extra and have very good results. Echo is in the water for eleven months of the year and has just a little slime on the hull when I lift her out. I put the same on the saildrive and use Hempel Mille Drive on the propeller. This is in the Solent and south coast. I know of other boat owners who use International and are equally happy so I guess there may not be any real difference between them. ------------- Steve. Hanse 341 Echo of Wight, . Deep draft and rudder, white hull, Single aft cabin. Raymarine instruments. Raymarine radar. Garmin AIS. Wheel Steering, Portsmouth. |
Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 15 November 2011 at 18:30
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Brufan,
I use International Micron Extra, and Trilux on the saildrive, this is after speaking to International paints.... Do International have a local office in your country, in UK there are, I understand numerous test areas around the coast, it could be that the same is true in Holland, and then International could give you accurate information as to what will work in your area.
Just a thought.
Dave ------------- Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp) 
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Posted By: kirkelund
Date Posted: 15 November 2011 at 19:06
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Hi, Micron Extra seems to be a good choice. Unfortunately, we are not allowed to use that in Denmark as far as I know. (Only on boats for export. So you need a special permission). @Steve /Echo of Wight - Are you sure it is OK to use Tiger Extra on the saildrive, which is made of aluminium. I believe that Tiger Extra is similar to Mille Extra, which I am told may not be used on aluminium because of risk of corrosion (it contains copper). I had my boat antifouled with Tiger Extra in Plymouth in 2009. If I am not mistaken it was then sold under the name of "Blakes Tiger Extra", but it was still the same product as Hempel's Mille Extra. But maybe you have got another version? Ole, ------------- Kirkelund "Amani" Lynetten, Copenhagen, Denmark Hanse 342 (grey hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, Jefa rudder - RUD34) |
Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 15 November 2011 at 19:18
Micron Extra is not allowed in Denmark I will use International VC17m Extra, and Trilux for the S-Drive. The most regatta yachts use VC17m in Denmark. ------------- Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin |
Posted By: Jacques Dubois
Date Posted: 17 November 2011 at 10:52
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I got my new 400 on March 31 daarliet thuis year. I got the boat at Workum (NL) on the Ijselmeer but I sail mainly on the North Sea. I think the antifouling USD isn't up to it. I knowhow the one USD is Hempel Combic 71990. I will switch to Nautix. Brgds ------------- Jacques Dubois |
Posted By: aquilo
Date Posted: 18 April 2012 at 13:31
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Is there an easy way to check if the antifouling is of type "eroding" or "hard" ?
After some googling I found that some Hanses have been painted at shipyard (Greifswald) with Micron Trilux (hard) and some says Micron Extra (eroding)...(?)
I believed our boat (delivered 2010) was painted with some type of eroding, but now I'm not so sure...
It seems also you have to mix colors yourself to match the original color of the antifouling.
------------- Hanse 320 Norway |
Posted By: anti
Date Posted: 18 April 2012 at 13:53
Just smoothly rub your palm against it, .......if it's in your hand, it's eroding. I'd say that if it was eroding you would probably know, it ends up on everything  ------------- s/y Maike Hanse 315 #455 tiller, Z-spar rig, Yanmar 3YM20 http://maike.orpi.se/" rel="nofollow - http://maike.orpi.se/ |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 18 April 2012 at 14:01
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gave up with all the usual antifouling paints this year
had the boat shot blasted fot £ 250-00 cash
Bought enough coppercoat for £ 597-00 - boatshow deal included rollers & epoxy for keel
Spent 4 part days sanding hull & cleaning waterline ( jet blaster stopped 3 inches away from the edge)
Spent 3 days applying the copper ( 2 hard days for 2 people doing main hull coats plus one easy day for 1 person doing the keel & where the pads to the stand went went plus 1.5 hours epoxying the keel 20 mins after it was shot blasted)
paid the yard £ 19-00 to attend on blaster to adjust the stand pads so he could do behind them
paid the yard £ 60-00 to move the boat 2 ft forward so I could get at bits where pads were to allow me to paint them at same time as the keel
Whole cost inc some sandpaper etc just under £ 1000-00
this compares favourably with 6 days sanding & 2 days antifouling Blakes Ocean performer at 2 X £ 96-00 plus sandpaper rollesr etc which I have had to do every year. ( Blakes is now Hempel & cost will not get any less)
Hopefully system will last 8-10 years
We have boats in the yard done 8 years ago & now having further coats applied for another 8 years worth. They all seem to think it is OK ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 18 April 2012 at 14:29
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You have to buy the antifouling type which suits your situation and area. For me, Seajet Shogun worked very well, whereas other Seajet products whether more expensive or cheaper did not. None of the International range worked very well. I now have Coppercoat which is just ok at the moment, but really needs a mid-season wash. Perhaps it will perform better during its second year. (I have always previously gone through the whole season without washing off). Charles ------------- 'MERIDIAN LADY' 320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
Posted By: aquilo
Date Posted: 18 April 2012 at 15:31
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On my previous boat I used Jotun Non Stop (eroding type). After a complete removal of several years of old antifouling, I started to apply only a thin layer (using a "foam" roller) of antifouling and only at places where the primer could be seen through the antifouling (typically front of keel and bow part). Worked well + avoided building up thick layers of antifouling.
My experience is that most boat owners (I previously did also) apply more antifouling than really necessary (save money and work
 ). That's why I would like to know what type and color originally applied on my Hanse 320, to re-apply only on those areas where strictly needed.
------------- Hanse 320 Norway |