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Faded grey strips on hull

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 400
Forum Description: 400 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=6695
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:51
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Faded grey strips on hull
Posted By: leilani
Subject: Faded grey strips on hull
Date Posted: 10 June 2012 at 10:18
Hi Guys,
We have a Hanse 400e Hull 645, we have noticed that over the last 12 months the two grey lies above the water line are starting to fade. I have seen this on a few boats and would like to know of a good product that can restore the colour. Our yacht LEILANI is based in Melbourne Australia.
Many Thanks
LEILANI



Replies:
Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 10 June 2012 at 11:09
Since you are from Australia i would check out the local brand Top Gear marine.
They have excellent products. For your purpose e.g. Gelcoat Rejuvinator or maybe just their medium buffing compound. I have used both and they work great.


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PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com


Posted By: AnnSea
Date Posted: 10 June 2012 at 22:52
Hi Leilani,

my 370e has the (faded) grey stripes as well. I tried a couple of different polishes last year but had no success in restoring the original grey colouring. I don't know if the cove lines are painted on or are a gelcoat - if anyone knows please let us know.


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Tim



AnnSea 370e #418


Posted By: leilani
Date Posted: 11 June 2012 at 07:56
Thanks Annsea & Pearl,
I have tried a 3m gelcoat rejuvinator, it works very well on white gelcoat but not well on the grey, l will await further responses I also am unaware whether the cove lines are painted on or gelcoat? It would be great to get a response from Hanse themselves, surely they must monitor the forum.
Regards
LEILANI


Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 11 June 2012 at 11:09
On my 470 the grey lines are 100% gelcoat colour.
They where faded a couple of seasons ago. I used Hempel Liquid Rubbing and a machine - got the full colour and shine back.


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PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com


Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 11 June 2012 at 21:15
They are gelcoat.
It will require using a buffing/polishing machine and using an oxidization remover first, colour restorer second, followed by a quality wax. Go to the local boat yard and ask the pros which products they use (unlikely that the ones I use in Canada aren't available there)
 
Steve


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Steve

Hanse 400e, #168


Posted By: AnnSea
Date Posted: 11 June 2012 at 22:59
thanks Pearl and Steve - I'll do what you suggest.

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Tim



AnnSea 370e #418


Posted By: leilani
Date Posted: 13 June 2012 at 11:00
Thanks to all for the feedback I will attempt some of your recommendations
Regards
LEILANI


Posted By: StephenDadour
Date Posted: 31 August 2012 at 06:27
Hi, do you have a cover for the boat that will keep the UV off it?


Posted By: leilani
Date Posted: 06 September 2012 at 05:33
THanks Steven,
 l do not have a cover for the boat as it would be difficult to cover the grey cove lines which are just above the water line.
 Being involved in the Construction Industry my engineering technicians are endeavouring to build a ( carport garage ) or should l say a ( boat port ) so when mooring the boat it will have entire full protection from the harmful UV rays which we experience in Australia, this will no doubt over a period of time save me in exorbitant costs on wax and poilshes. They plan to allow mast access so when l motor into my pen it will give me total coverage.
 I have asked for a remote control to open entry gates as well, this will be of benefit especially if l have had a few to many beers, just makes the whole damn thing easier. Once l have specifications i will let you know.
My technicians have asked me if l woulod like dancing girls and fancy lights as l am motoring in, l advised them that was alittle over the top and that they were being silly.
LEILANI
Ying Yang


Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 07 September 2012 at 23:10
Originally posted by leilani leilani wrote:

THanks Steven,
 
My technicians have asked me if l woulod like dancing girls and fancy lights as l am motoring in, l advised them that was alittle over the top and that they were being silly.
LEILANI
Ying Yang
 
Sounds like a missed opportunity, would have been cool to see what they came up with! ;)


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Steve

Hanse 400e, #168


Posted By: Easy_Diver
Date Posted: 30 September 2012 at 00:59

Instead of rubbing and polishing etc I may suggest to put vinly plastic tape type stripes. On my boat (Dufour) these stripes are vinly tapes sticked to the hull and no any fading issue.



Posted By: LasseK
Date Posted: 22 April 2013 at 17:54

My 400 has a light grey epoxy hull. It was very easy to it keep shiny and nice the first years but now almost impossible to get in shape. The colour has faded here and there and it make no difference if I polish. Getting desperate. Is this a general problem with the gery colour or have someone else similar experinece with other colours?



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Lasse


Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 22 April 2013 at 22:36
This year I have used a product called A-Glaze. First you compound the hull and then apply the A-Glaze system. It is supposed to resist 99% of UV.

Charles

-------------
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway


Posted By: sailkoop
Date Posted: 23 April 2013 at 06:46
Hi LasseK,
I already had the same Issue this Year. I ordered the Polish Team from the local Yard and thes are using Products out from 3M! It is unbelievable how it works. The boat is looking like new!Tongue




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best regards

Bjoern





Posted By: leilani
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 05:26
Thanks sailkoop,

There are many 3m products, could you please advise on what particular products and how applied.

Regards
LEILANI


Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 07:27
Hi,
Now I noticed this discussion.

In my boat the stripes are different material inserted inside the hull. I mean those are stripes of plastic material of unknown composition that have been attached in the mould during production and have been embedded inside the epoxy hull.

I noticed this when we saw small cavities around the stripes at three different positions around the hull.
Possibly this is only true for epoxy boats.

We couldn't find the material of the stripes. We filled the gaps with epoxy glue.

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Panos

Hanse 630e - selling her -


Posted By: sailkoop
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 08:01
Hi leilani,
I only know that it is a polish for Marine boats from 3M! They are using it together with a polish machine. For areas where the "Grey effect" are harder they also had a kind of Sandpaper, also from 3M, which they are using first.
I am on my boat at the End of May, then I'll make a photo from that Stuff. 

Sorry, but I have no more Information in Hand for the Moment.


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best regards

Bjoern





Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 10:36
Leilani,
 
I will email you the polishing information if you PM me you email address. The information is is lengthy and I am not sure it will fit into a reply on the forum. I will try posting it on the forum but to make sure  you get the info send me your email address. 


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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 11:05
It would be good to see it on the forum if you can manage it Wayne.

Charles

-------------
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 11:55
Leilani et al,
 

I regularly polish the 36 meter motor which I look after. Over the last 5 years I have used various methods and products and have now settled on a process which works well and keeps the vessel looking sparkling and easy to clean. I have used a range of the 3M products and I find them good to use although they can be expensive. But if you want to use a range of products from one manufacturer then 3M have a full range for vessels in various conditions and are available worldwide. The 3M websites have plenty of additional information .

 

If your vessel is in poor condition or has heavy oxidization of the gelcoat I would suggest -

1. Wash with 3M Marine Boat Soap or any good quality boat wash.

2. Use a cutting compound like 3M Marine Rubbing Compound or similar.

3. Machine polish with 3M Finesse -It 11.

4. Hand apply a wax like 3M Marine Ultra Wax or 3M Marine Liquid Wax.

 

If your vessel is in reasonable condition with light oxidization of the gelcoat I would suggest-

1. Wash with 3M Marine Boat Soap or any good quality boat wash.

2. Machine polish with 3M Finesse -It 11.

3. Hand apply a wax like 3M Marine Ultra Wax or 3M Marine Liquid Wax.

 

If your vessel is in as new condition still with good gloss retention I would suggest-

1. Wash with 3M Marine Boat Soap or any good quality boat wash.

2. Hand apply a wax like 3M Marine Ultra Wax or 3M Marine Liquid Wax.

 

The "compound" is used to removed oxidization and stains and removes gelcoat as it works. Compounds come in various levels of abrasiveness - often referred to as 1. 2 or 3. 1 being the less aggressive and 3 the most.

 

The Finesse "polish" is a much finer abrasive than a "compound" and includes a polish which remains on surface to provide protection to the gelcoat and some gloss.

 

The  "Wax" forms an additional protective film over the gelcoat and gives a high gloss.  The Marine Liquid Wax is easier to use than the Ultra Wax which is a thick paste.

 

Here in the tropics with very strong sun I would polish and wax twice a year. I think in less severe weather areas once per year would be enough.

 

To make the job as easy as possible you need the right equipment - a large (200mm) variable speed electric polisher, I prefer to used foam pads to apply compound or polish rather than lambs wool pads. The lambs wool pads are preferred by professional but are more difficult to use. I find the foam pads easier to use for us non "professionals". The foam pads I use are about 125mm in diameter and about 50mm thick and screw onto the polisher. I use the blue coloured pads. In Aust these pads are available in 4 different hardness and each hardness is a different colour. The harder pads are more aggressive but a bit harder to use. I find the blue pads are a good combination of being easy to use and not too aggressive. You need plenty of clean towelling to clean off the products. When it gets to applying the wax by hand I use 100mm diameter microfiber polishing mitts. These cost about AUD$4 each but are much easier than using a piece of cloth. You probably need scaffolding or trestles and a plank or a work platform to be able to reach all the areas on the hull safely assuming you are polishing whilst the boat is on the hard. Polishing the hull with the boat in the water is more difficult and presents more problems. Not impossible just more difficult.

 

At this point you need to assess if you should spend your money on all the polishing equipment, supplies and scaffolding and commit several days of your time to polish your hull or pay a tradesman to do the work? I think to polish and wax a 35 ft hull which is in fair condition to start with will take about 20- 25 hours of fairly hard work. If your boat is in poor condition and with heavy oxidization I would think very carefully about having  tradesman do it this year and then you could take over the polishing/waxing next year.   

 

To start the process =

 

First rinse the hull with plenty of fresh water then wash the vessel hull, or area you wish to polish, well with a specific marine wash/soap.

 

Next - use the electric variable speed polisher to apply either a cutting compound or polish. I use a firm foam pad (blue colour) which is moistened with water. Apply the product to the pad and then spread it over the work area without starting the machine. If you just turn the machine on a lot of the product will fly off. Leave the machine in contact with the work area and then start the polisher and move it slowly over the work area trying to cover the area evenly. The pad should remain flat on the work surface. I have a small spray bottle with plain water in it which I use to make sure the area I am working on does not dry out. If the product dries out and you continue to  polish it can "burn" the surface. I set the polisher on speed 2 ( on a scale of 0=nil, 9 = scary fast). If the polisher is too fast the polish flys off and makes a mess. If the polisher is on high speed it is also easy to damage the surface. I rinse the compound or polish residue off with a damp cloth and then hand buff with towelling once the remainder has dried. I make sure the foam pads are washed out frequently - every 2 square meters of polishing, rinse out the damp cloth several times for an area polished (about 1 square meter) and I make sure the towelling does not get too much compound/polish build up. The more product you can get off by rinsing the easier it will be to buff off remiander.

 

Note - be very careful when applying the compound or polish with the electric polisher as it can be easy to cut through the gelcoat in areas where there are sharp edges. In smaller areas apply the compound or polish by hand.

 

Once compounding is finished ( if compounding was needed) use the same procedure to apply and remove the polish.

 

After  a large area or one side of the hull is finished I then I apply the Wax by hand, buff by hand and then a final buff with a lambs wool pad on the electric polisher set at speed 3. When hand applying the wax I use the small microfiber round applicator pads. Again I change these pads over after say 4 square meters of work. I find you need to make sure there is no build up of polish residue or wax on the applicators or towelling as any buildup makes it more difficult to remove the product off the boat. Because we have so much polishing to do we buy large bags of old towels from a commercial laundry for polishing. A bag costs about AUD$25 for the equivalent of about 30- 40 towels and are often ex hospital or hotel towels. Once the towels become worn out from the polishing they get used in the engine room and other cleaning and they then get thrown out. We have about 20 of the microfiber applicators which we wash out and dry for their next use. They last about 25-30 uses and washing cycles.

 

After the polish/waxing process is complete regularly wash the boat with a good quality marine wash or shampoo. Don't use aggressive detergents like "truckwash" as they will remove the wax and damage your gelcoat. Always start the washing with a good fresh water rinse to remove salt and then shampoo the boat.

 

There are a lot of " miracle one shot" products around - you know the ones that promise to wash, polish and wax all in one easy and fast process. I have used some of these products and have not found them to be as good as the full, labour intensive separate wash, compound (if necessary) , polish and wax.

 

You may find variations to the above procedures are better for you  and your boat in your location but start with this and see how you go.

 

A well polished boat is a beautiful thing to behold and very satisfying if it is a product of your own labour. Happy polishing.  

 


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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 12:20
Excellent Wayne. Thanks for all that information. I do my boat in a very similar way. Sometimes I have to use 2000 gauge wet and dry paper on bad scuffs. My machine polisher is the Makita 9227CB which is around £190 in UK.

Charles

-------------
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 12:45
Charles,
 
The use of wet&dry 2000 grit is a very effective way to prepare rough/damaged areas for final polishing but it can be a bit agressive in novice hands. But it does take a lot of elbow grease to do much damage with 2000 grit. Actually some of the cutting compounds rate themslves as 1500 grit so are very agressive especially on a high speed polisher.
 
I have used a few different polishers and in the end bought a Ozito (Chinese I guess) which costs about AUD$80 - cheap as chips- has a 3 year replacement warranty and plenty of low rev power. I have used it for about 300 hours over 2 years. If I happen to drop it in the water or it completely fails for another AUD$80 I have new one. I looked at other brands at over AUD$500 but I don't think they would be any better for the use I put it to. Different if I was using it for 8 hour every day. 
 
Hopefully you are finished polishing for the season and can get out and use you boat. 


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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 26 April 2013 at 14:23
I have not found Ozito over here except for Strimmers. We finished polishing in a blizzard because we were launching the next day, which was a few days before Easter. Such very cold conditions for almost the whole of March are unheard of in the South of England. We refused to be beaten and ended up using a fan heater and blanket when applying epoxy primer and Coppercoat to a part of the keel.

Last year at the same period we were enjoying over 20 degrees C.

Charles

-------------
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway


Posted By: StephenDadour
Date Posted: 01 May 2013 at 05:59
Hi Leilani, a good bet is that it is applied with a rag and a hand. You have 2 of them but sometimes they are occupied in your pockets.


Posted By: leilani
Date Posted: 02 May 2013 at 04:32
Thanks for all your feedback and comments, will attempt procedures soon. Yes Mr Stephen Dadour, my hands are always occupied in my pockets that's because every time l catch up with you l am buying you drinks. On the other hand your pockets are so deep that you can never reach your wallet?

LEILANI


Posted By: asimo
Date Posted: 21 May 2025 at 00:11
Leilani, 
Did you end up dealing with the faded grey strips on the hull.  I tried cutting nd polishing.  Worked well for the white bits.  Did nothing for the grey. 

Also, where is that boat locker with the dancing girls...I keep on looking for it. 


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H400e - DE HANJ0344K708



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