keel repair
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 461 / 470
Forum Description: 461 / 470 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=6950
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:30
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Topic: keel repair
Posted By: tobo
Subject: keel repair
Date Posted: 19 September 2012 at 11:29
Ever wanted to see how the original 2.60m keel of a Hanse 470 is made like? Here's the pic. It is under repair, because a bloody stupid shipyard (Marina Punat, Croatia) which didn't dry out epoxy cracks long enough after a ground touch repair. If you ever run into such a repair situation make sure a) that the cracks are really widely openened and dried out for a long time (one month) and b) that it is repaired not only with filler. My insurance paid for the first repair but refuses (of course) to pay for the re-repair. Now try to sue a Croatian company for bad work; it's like telling a Swiss bank not to take untaxed money. (to be followed) ------------- Thomi |
Replies:
Posted By: alettaenmarcel
Date Posted: 19 September 2012 at 11:41
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why are there opeings ( windows) in the keel, are those there to add more ballast?
And are all the Hanse keels like this?
gr marcel
------------- Kids Dingys 72-79 ,Several Windsurfboards 79-86 OK dingy competitions 86-92 , Trotter Pandora Race 92-98, Friendship 28 Sport 98-05, Hanse 370 06-...... |
Posted By: Brufan
Date Posted: 19 September 2012 at 12:05
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I think other recent Hanses have the same keel construction. Openings are close with some kind of steel sheets and then epoxied. My keel sounds "empty" in the middle when I knock it with fingers. If I push hard the middle part flex a little. I thought It was a bit strange but now I know why... Thanks Tobo for sharing. ------------- Bruno hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
Posted By: JonB
Date Posted: 19 September 2012 at 12:12
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I think Hanse have 2 types of keel construction this one I believe is of the iron/lead type. Lead being in the bulb at the bottom & this is the iron frame, the 'windows' in the middle reduces production costs, ease of handling during both manufacture & fitting etc. It is then finished off with the GRP we so lovingly anti-foul. I think the 2nd type is iron only ------------- Jon B 470e http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk |
Posted By: sailkoop
Date Posted: 19 September 2012 at 17:28
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Hi Thomi, thx for sharing this interesting pictures. Now you get the chance to shape the keel into a "performance" one. For your Information, you can order an add. shape of the keel by X-Yachts, for better racing conditions. Now you have it in your hand!  br ------------- best regards Bjoern |
Posted By: Peter-Blake
Date Posted: 20 September 2012 at 12:07
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@ tobo, what i do not understand. Were there cracks in the keel or in the hull? On the foto you sanded off all the colour from the keel, but the hull is still painted? ------------- Blake 370 
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Posted By: JonB
Date Posted: 20 September 2012 at 20:46
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Peter, What the picture shows is the hull intact & the lead bulb (torpedo) & an area above it, also untouched. Tobo has removed the area that hadn't dried out properly and cracked following the repair from the Croatian marina and is letting it dry completely before re-applying the GRP to give him back the smooth finish we all are used to. So you won't see any cracks they've gone, ------------- Jon B 470e http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk |
Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 21 September 2012 at 06:58
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@Jon B: if I understand good you are suggesting that Tobo is waiting until the iron part of the keel completely drys out so that he can laminate it. Doesn't make sense to me since the iron cannot get wet and doesn't absorb any water. The only place where water could be trapped is the gap between the iron and lead parts of the keel. This gap could be dried out using a torch - you don't have to wait one month. ------------- Panos Hanse 630e - selling her - |
Posted By: Brufan
Date Posted: 21 September 2012 at 07:48
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Panos, I experienced this kind of issue with my former yacht. Cast iron absorbs water superficially. Not so much but enough to avoid epoxy coatings to cure good. As my yard said to me 20 years ago you should leave a sandblasted keel a least 1 or 2 months to dry (and rise it with fresh water) before applying epoxy coatings. If you don't make it dry then the epoxy layers will drop off within one or two years ------------- Bruno hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 21 September 2012 at 23:47
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I can add that the temperature of the iron and lead needs to be at recommended values and kept so for apr. 24 hours prior to applying and 24 - 48 hours after. Otherwise you risk moisture building from condense. When i have done iron keels i have sanded them before epoxy treatment to get the surface rust off. ------------- PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com |
Posted By: tobo
Date Posted: 23 September 2012 at 10:37
As you guys seem to be interested: here are two pics of the situation when the boat was lifted out. Blastering epoxy at the root and water dripping out lower down where the lead is connected to the steel. The Lloyds surveyor suggested then to strip off all epoxy and not only the "infected" spots. He was afraid that the salt water inside could damage the keel bolts. Total costs of repair: € 8000 (!) and all because a shipyard in Croatia (with a good reputation and trustable) one year ago did not dry out the cracks long enough and only repaired with filler (!).   ------------- Thomi |
Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 23 September 2012 at 15:05
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Hi, if I understand correctly the first picture was taken before the repair and the second one after the first repair. ------------- Panos Hanse 630e - selling her - |
Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 23 September 2012 at 17:14
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Panos, yes - i am sure the last posted pics. are taken first ------------- PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com |