Lazy jack/bag
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 461 / 470
Forum Description: 461 / 470 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7298
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:40
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Lazy jack/bag
Posted By: Blejie
Subject: Lazy jack/bag
Date Posted: 14 March 2013 at 17:33
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All, Winter storms have ruined our mainsail lazy bag and cut some lazy jack ropes. I have an offer for a new bag from Hanse of Euro 1500 and a Spanish offer of Euro 1200. Now I never liked the weak Hanse one. Anyone in the forum with similar problem and any suggestion? Thanks in advance, Jos ------------- Owner of the Lunatic - H470 #346 |
Replies:
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 14 March 2013 at 18:35
Not sure of the size of yours but mine cost £ 200-00 from Lonton & Gray of Burnham on crouch UK For a 315 Very pleased with quality Used the old one for a pattern ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Blejie wrote:Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 14 March 2013 at 19:05
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Mine for a 301, 3 yrs ago cost about nearly £200. I would not have thought that the difference in size would mean such a difference in price...( €1200 = approx £1050), But then of course there is no Hanse logo on mine... and it looks almost as good as when it was fitted. It really seems a lot of money.... Dave ------------- Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp) 
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Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 14 March 2013 at 19:27
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I would get a local sailmaker to make one in a heavy quality. The price seems really high. I think i paid apr. 500€ for my replacement in 2011. ------------- PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com |
Posted By: Mark_J1
Date Posted: 15 March 2013 at 07:22
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We inherited a bag at near end-of-life. Fairly sure it would have disappeared overboard at some point this winter. Rather than buy new, our choice was to buy a sail sewing machine & some Sunbrella & re-build it ourselves. In fairness, this was only possible as my other half is a dab hand with a sewing machine and pattern making. However, with some reuse of cleaned panels from the original (including the logo!) it is now stronger & looking good. Costs were still less than new if you feel like a little DIY, and we have the sail sewing machine for other jobs. It's already been put to good use on the sparyhood and genoa, so is earning its keep. Mark ------------- Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31 |
Posted By: Peter Russell
Date Posted: 15 March 2013 at 15:55
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I had a new one last summer. I did this at the same time as I had the sacrificial strip replaced on the headsail so can't remember the exact price but around £400 springs to mind. The new one shredded in the winter winds as although it was cut to the old pattern it was too loose and flapped too much. The sail maker (a local chap) has taken it away to repair, resize and reinforce with no charge. He is also making some adjustments to make it easier to use based on my feedback. So a good result all round by using a trusted local man. ------------- Peter Russell Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered" http://outnumbered.the-russells.net" rel="nofollow - http://outnumbered.the-russells.net |
Posted By: sailkoop
Date Posted: 15 March 2013 at 16:56
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Hi, I change my Laszybag last Spring. See the pics in open and closed Position. I optimized the length and the Zipper, because the End of went very often in the blocks for the reefline and creats trouble.   Hope, it helps to find the right one for you!!  ------------- best regards Bjoern |
Posted By: Juno
Date Posted: 15 March 2013 at 18:23
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I had a new cover made with the zip on the side rather than the top, it's much easier to zip up..The zip is also long enough to be left permanently connected together so theres no hanging off the end of the boom trying to get the zip engaged Juno 370e |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 15 March 2013 at 18:40
I had my new cover made with the zip starting from the mast In this position i can hold on to the mast whilst starting off the zip Plus if i only zip a few feet it will hold the sail in I also had additional straps fitted so i do not even have to do the zip at all if struggling on my own in rough conditions They hold the sides so there is no weight on the zip making it easier to zip This is handy if the sail wants to bulge out  ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 15 March 2013 at 22:32
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Samuel, exactly right, mine is started at the mast.... with the zip on one side it limits your options, you have to zip from one side only, and you have to get the offset side put over to the zipping side.... My reefing lines were taking through the bottom of the bag so no problems there.. Dave ------------- Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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Posted By: Colin Fisher
Date Posted: 16 March 2013 at 10:29
| Another issue is the poor resistance of the thread to UV. The stitching on my 400 stack pack started to fail after 3 years. I would strongly advise anybody with a stack pack over 4 years old to take it to their local sailmaker who will very easily run over all the stitching in less than 2 hours ( Cost me £80 / 100 Euros ) The same is the case with the spray hood , mine started to fall apart after 5 years but I just caught it in time and again the sailmaker fixed it with 3 hours of labour and it should be good for another 5 years by which time the material itself may well be finished. |
Posted By: Blejie
Date Posted: 22 March 2013 at 16:34
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Thank you all. I have used the pictures and showed it to a local sailmaker in the Netherlands. I now have one for € 800 with your features. great! So my conclusion is: use the forum as much as possible. It saves you money and you get a better product. Once again thanks. ------------- Owner of the Lunatic - H470 #346 |
Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 22 March 2013 at 20:14
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Is it better for the bag to be in one piece, or is it best to have a separate piece for the section near the mast? Charles ------------- 'MERIDIAN LADY' 320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 22 March 2013 at 20:18
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If it is 2 piece you do not have so much flapping about when sailing ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 22 March 2013 at 21:53
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Is the picture of your fastenings ok Sam? I think I would have had a bungee loop on one side and a bungee ball on the other. You seem to have threaded one length of bungee. Charles ------------- 'MERIDIAN LADY' 320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
Posted By: Swanji
Date Posted: 23 March 2013 at 07:51
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Hi all We will need to replace our original Hanse lazy bag next season. It is in a dire state but we have other priorities this season so it shall have to last. A summary of all the inputs so far seems to be - don't order from Hanse, get your local sailmaker to make you one -cost will be between GBP 200 and GBP 500 depending on the size of your boat - modify the head cover to avoid interference with the reefing blocks - have the zip start at the mast rather than the end of the boom - you may want to add a strip that covers the zip to reduce water ingress - consider using toggles and balls to avoid having to zip the bag - you may want to raise the main later that day for example - remember to have a third space cut for a third reef - sunbrella seems to be the fabric of choice - use UV resistant stitching Anything else? ------------- Onwards and upwards Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop |
Posted By: 341 Agathe
Date Posted: 23 March 2013 at 09:57
I have attached a piece of elastic 10mm between lazy jack and suspension. It protects against overload, and keeps lazy jack up so it does not flapprer when the sail is up.  ------------- Agathe 341 2003, white hull, tiller steering, deep draft keel, long rudder |
Posted By: Juno
Date Posted: 23 March 2013 at 10:00
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Swanji I have to take issue with the zip starting at the mast end. The thought of standing on the mast steps holding on to the mast with one hand and trying to start the zip one handed in a bit of a sea sounds absolutely impossible. Maybe on smaller boats where you can stand on the deck and comfortably reach the top of the boom it may be possible but on my 370 I certainly can't do that, for the same reason a would recommend having the zip on the side rather than the top. David Juno 370 e |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 23 March 2013 at 13:28
Some years ago we were off Bafleur in a big swell with zero wind I went forward to drop the main My wife forgot to tighten the mainsheet She stood on the cockpit seat to reach the zip The boat rolled & she had a job keeping balance so took her eye off the boom It hit her in the midriff & bent her double over it as it carried her over the side The back of her knees caught the guardrail whilst the rest of her was suspended over the side As the boat rolled back the boom swung in & threw her onto the cockpit floor badly hurting her wrist Even if she had tightened the mainsheet she would have had to stand on the seats to engage the zip whilst the boat rolls On another occasion a crew nearly lost his balance & as he was holding the zipper tag he managed to rip it off With the zip at the front ( esp when SH) i can zip up when dropping the main & have the mast to hold on to I tend to lay over the boom to keep balance When zip is at front i only need to zip a short length to hold the sail in The loops & eyes are because my stiff main does not go in the bag easily I did not want an oversize bag So i lean on the sail & hook the eyes In the dark i can do this whereas i could not see the zip I can do the loops one handed without even looking at them I have changed my loops so the ball is one side & the loop the other side so i no longer have to threadle the loop first ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: tobo
Date Posted: 23 March 2013 at 14:44
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Why do you guys discuss that in the 470/461 forum?
------------- Thomi |
Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 23 March 2013 at 16:21
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In difficult conditions of big seas with strong winds I would have a long sail tie or two to very quickly wrap around the sail (and boom),as it is dropped. I can then attend to the zip whenever I want. It seems to me that Samuel's idea of chord loops and balls is an improvement. I think I would keep my zip starting from the boom end. Charles ------------- 'MERIDIAN LADY' 320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 23 March 2013 at 17:02
Charles It is not bungee but cord Actually i have refined it since the photo I now have. Loop 1 side & the ball the other There would be no point in a bungee as it would stretch & be too long the length is critical The length of loop & cord is slightly less than the distance across the zip Once the loops are done up the zip parts have no weight on them & once started they can be zipped up with one hand I found that before i needed 3 hands. 2 to pull the 2 parts of the cover together & 1 to slide the zip along Bit like going on holiday when trying to get everything in the bag!! ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: Juno
Date Posted: 23 March 2013 at 17:23
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I don't have to bother with sail ties or bungy and bails because I have fitted Crusader Magic Stack where I can pull the sail down and it automatically flakes down into the bag, even on a broad reach. You can read more details on Crusader"some web site. David Juno 370e |
Posted By: Colin Fisher
Date Posted: 24 March 2013 at 12:42
| Hi Samuel...Your system of a loop and ball sounds very simple and effective , I will be certainly trying it. Another simple idea is to have a short line attached to one of the backstays , this can be easily tied to the end of the boom which prevents the boom swinging about as you do anything standing on the coachroof. If I was having a new stackpack made I would certainly request reinforced attachment points for the webbing and also ask for stainless steel rings instead of the plastic ones !! With regard to the zip starting it from the mast end would mean it was open ended and involve carefull alignment of the two halves....a recipe for frustration and eventually perhaps broken teeth on the zip.Lots to think about. !!!!! |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 24 March 2013 at 15:33
You are correct about the line to the backstay. I do have one. In fact i prefer to do this up as soon as possible. I am always worried that if the topping lift slipped undone the boom could hit someone on the head.That is another reason why i do not over tighten the mainsheet I do not understand what you mean about doing up the zip. Surely it is easier at the mast than standing on the seat with no support trying to locate the zip on the outer end of the boom. Problem is that when single handed i only want to go forward once. Not back & forward to do zips & clips etc ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: Colin Fisher
Date Posted: 24 March 2013 at 17:44
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Samuel the standard stackpack which came with my 2007 400 zips from the outward end of the boom and the zip has a "tail" which extends about 20 cm. This means that the slider is always attached to both sides of the zip. I cannot see anyway that a tail could be incrporated at the inner end. Regards Colin. P.S. The tail of my zip was pulled down into one of the reefing sheaves recently and got stuck and damaged...I make sure now that the tail is kept clear by fixing it about 20 cm up the topping lift with a cable tie Incidently I have found cable ties very handy at fixing the mainsail.onto a replacement sail slide when the old one fails (A total of 6 have now failed!). |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 24 March 2013 at 18:05
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So you do not totally unzip the cover My cover is not long enough to do that But if it was I could see it getting into the reef lines as it has for you ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: Peter Russell
Date Posted: 24 March 2013 at 19:23
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As an update to my earlier post. I've just had a new bag made by a local sail maker for my 370. After the winter it had to go back for some remedial work and I just picked it up this weekend. It has good quality webbing and stainless rings. Now it also have PVC reinforcing where the wind has caused it to chafe. The zip is done up from the boom end and the zip extends by around 20cm so that there is room for the reefing lines to go to the end of the boom without staining the zip and it allows a relatively easy closure rather than struggling trying to get the zip ends aligned. I have a separate “nappy” at the mast. I’m not too sure about it at the moment, but it does mean that there is no flapping fabric when sailing. The nappy is zipped at the front of the mast and I don’t think this is a very good idea. The zip comes down and it is difficult to get it started whilst clinging onto the mast standing on the steps and the boat is tossing around. I’d rather have it done up from the bottom or have a lacing arrangement using hooks. Alongside my brand new main sail (which I’ll report on when I’ve sailed it) I’m a happy teddy bear. ------------- Peter Russell Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered" http://outnumbered.the-russells.net" rel="nofollow - http://outnumbered.the-russells.net |
Posted By: jeancharleb
Date Posted: 18 August 2014 at 12:46
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Personnaly i would exchange my mast with full baten 3 reefs for à furling mast anyday. 3 reefs to take is to much for husband and wife Cruising. Dont need the speed, boat is to fast anyway. I Sail in the Med probably explains also. Lazy bag was almost finished after 2 years now 4 It needs to be replaced, the original was really the most basic ( cheap) that exist I am shure. ------------- Jean Charlebois |