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Engine heating problems

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 461 / 470
Forum Description: 461 / 470 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7414
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:40
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Engine heating problems
Posted By: C&A sails
Subject: Engine heating problems
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 10:15
Any ideas please.



Replies:
Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 10:46
Christopher,
 
You need to provide a bit more information if you want to receive meaningful input. Do you mean " We have an overheating problem with the engine in our 470, 2008 model" .
 
You could advise-
 
1. Does the engine overheat within 10 minutes of starting up at low revs? or does it only overheat after running at 2500 rpm or higher in gear with the vessel travelling at 7 knots?
2. Do you know if the overboard discharge of the cooling water "normal" or less than normal or you are not sure?
3.Is the vessels hull relatively free of growth (fouling) and is the propellor clean?
4.Where are you operating the vessel and what is the water temperature?
5. Have you checked the coolant level within the engine and is it at the engine maunfacturer suggested levels? Is the coolant in the engine the normal color or is it discolored?
 
Please add other information which you think may be relavant.
 
Sorry for all the questions but better information will delivery you better input.
 
 


-------------
Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 11:04
Wayne covered almost everything besides the first question: how do you know it is overheating? You get a warning light message or you see steam coming out of the exhaust? Is it possible that you have a false alarm? Do you have a thermometer installed?

I noticed you were looking for the engine sea cock. Did you manage to find and open it? Is water flowing out of the exhaust pipe?

-------------
Panos

Hanse 630e - selling her -


Posted By: C&A sails
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 13:08
We had a warning light and buzzer go off, white steam out the back, so turned back. We have just taken over this boat after winter in fresh water all winter. If we are to check sea cock we have still not found it, we did not notice water out of exhaust. We do not have a thermometer installed. By the way the engine was very hot and smelly by the time we got back.


Posted By: h315idra
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 13:22
If you dont see water going out with exahust:
  • sea water filter?
  • intercooler?
  • water pump (propeller or transmission belt)

A



-------------
Alessandro Camerini

315#526

Marina di Salivoli, Piombino ITALY


Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 14:43
How can you leave the harbour if no water is coming out of your exhaustShocked

The seacock will be behind the engine - on the side of your S-drive.
Acces by opening the lockers in the rear cabin and lifting out the bottom use the same device as you use for the floorboards.

If it turns out it was closed at least you found the initial error, but now I suspect you have a greater problem with the damages following the overheating.

I would get a professional onboard to check the engine and instruct you in how to use and inspect it.


-------------
PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com


Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 18:21
Poor boat!

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Panos

Hanse 630e - selling her -


Posted By: C&A sails
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 19:11
Thank you for your imput,all taken on board!


Posted By: jeancharleb
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 14:08
It happened to me.




-------------
Jean Charlebois


Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 17:26
Too bad.

Did you sail through a garbage dump? I see two different plastic bags blocking the cooling water entrance.

-------------
Panos

Hanse 630e - selling her -


Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 17:41
So tell us the whole story Jeancharle.

Charles

-------------
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway


Posted By: jeancharleb
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 20:24
Nopp, when youre boat is in a port that has 4,500 boats it makes allot of garbage , you add to that THE MISTRAL" if you know? That's the result:%$#$%?&

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Jean Charlebois


Posted By: leemind
Date Posted: 09 May 2013 at 17:40
I thought the cooling water inlet was on the bottom of the sail-drive?

Presumably that's not a 470?


-------------
Grand Cru
Hanse 461#028


Posted By: jeancharleb
Date Posted: 09 May 2013 at 20:41
It is a 470 2010 it is a Yanmar 75 hp

and the intake of water is not on the sail drive , only real outboard motors I think have intake on the foot


-------------
Jean Charlebois


Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 09 May 2013 at 22:21
On my 2008 it's a SD50 Sail drive with water intake.

Jean - do you have S-drive or shaft?


-------------
PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com


Posted By: jeancharleb
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 01:20
This is the baby.

I'm doing things for the first time on the motor do you have info on;
1- How to change ( the sequence0 ofchanging the high pressure filter on the motor

The water pump ( the ruber with wings that pump's up the sea water, is their a way to take it out?

Thanks.






-------------
Jean Charlebois


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 01:44
Jean,
 
The easy answer first. Myhanse forum member MacroC has a website http://www.wesailhanse.se" rel="nofollow - www.wesailhanse.se  and he has detailed information including photos of changing the salt water Jabsco (or similar) pump impeller (the rubber thing with the wings). The information is reached by the menu item "impeller change". Marco has a 370 but the directions are the same or very similar for all engines sizes with these pumps.It is a very easy thing to do.
 
The other item - "change the high pressure filter"- do you mean the oil filter, fuel filter or air filter?


-------------
Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: jeancharleb
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 01:52
the fuel filter , the one right up there that eventually goes to every cylinder.

As far as the raw water impeller for the motor I had quite a few boats and they sort of went out by pulling with long nose pliers. This one seem's to be hard 75 hp horse power is a bigger motor then my other boat.
am I to pull just harder and will eventually come?

Thanks for not sleeping


-------------
Jean Charlebois


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 02:12
Jean,
 
The impeller comes out the same for all motors with these Jabsco type pumps. You can buy a puller specifically to remove the impeller but pulling with long nose pliers will work. You may end up tearing some of the wing material off but as you are going to replace it anyway that does not matter. If it is difficult to use long nose pliers you could try long nose vice grips or ordinary vice grips if you can get then in to get a grip. Also try pulling from different sides - eg pull on the wing that is at the 3 o'clock position then on the one at about 9 o'clock, 12 o'clock, then 6 o'clock then start again if it still refuses to move.
 
I will get back to you on the fuel filter later today. It to is an easy job once you have a filter wrench. These would be available at most car accessory shops. You just need to have an idea of the outside diameter of you filter so you buy a filter wrench big enough for your filter. This should not be a problem as your fuel filter is not so big. The wrench can also be used to remove your oil filter. Check that the wrench will fit both filters.  
 
It is only 11:00am here so I should be using the good weather to get some work done outside. So I will reply in about 6-7 hours once I have the first cold beer down.


-------------
Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 04:32
Jean,
I thought I would send a quick post during our lunchtime.
 
Put a container under the fuel filter as diesel will leak out when the filter in removed. It is a good idea to have some absorant pads in the bilge under the fuel filter area just in case you do not catch all the fuel in your container.
 
1.Place your filter wrench around the fuel filter and loosen the filter until it unscrews easily. Remove the wrench.
2. Unscrew the filter by hand. If will be full of diesel so once it is removed pour the fuel into your container. There will be about 500ml of fuel so a container of 1 litre or more would be best. 
3. A small amout of fuel may drip out of the filter head. Again catch this in the container and /or mop it up with a rag or pad.
4. Add diesel to the new filter until it is almost full. Smear a small amount of diesel around the sealing ring on the top of the filter. This helps the seal slide as it is tightened.
5. Screw the new filter on. Only hand tighten. Do not use the wrench to tighten it.

6. Loosen the air bleed screw, on the side of the filter head, 2 - 3 turns.

7. Push up and down on the priming pump on the top of the filter head to pum any air still in the system out of the air bleed screw.

8. Continue pumping until a solid stream of fuel with no air bubbles begins to flow out of the air bleed screw.

9. Tighten the air bleed screw. These screws are normally brass so do not over tighten this screw as you can snap the head off if you go too hard at it.

10. Start the engine and check there are no fuel leaks.
11. If there are fuel leaks. Stop the engine. Tighten the filter or bleed screw etc. Clean up any spilt fuel and restart the engine.
12. Check for fuel leaks again. If no leaks allow the engine to run until you are happy (5-10 minutes should be enough).
13. If the engine does not start got back to item 6 above and bleed the system again.
 
If you had replaced the salt water pump impeller at the same time as doing the fuel filter make sure there is cooling water coming out with your exhaust.
 
Good luck with your servicing. 

.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


-------------
Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.


Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 06:45
Now, while we are in the engine room.

Did anyone find a engine room blower less noisy than the factory mounted?

Mine is from "Attwood" and moves 6,7 M3 / minute in a 100 mm / 4" tube. 

Jabsco has a 7,1 M3 / minute version. But is it less noisy?





-------------
PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com


Posted By: jeancharleb
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 11:20
Obviously sleeping while I'm typing this mail. Just got in Europe 1 day ago. Needless to say I don't push good days of work still, because I don't fall asleep and the mornings I wake up at 12.
People that travel for work oversea's I don't know how they do it.......

Anyway all the info you are giving me is really the way I like it , conceived, no ambiguity, even the particle
mistakes we usually are said.

Thank you for all this .

I will try to get my eye's through the right holes and start the job. Have a good day.

Here no sailing for anybody " Le Mistral " is out for 3 day's 35 knots!!!!!


Thanks Jean usually from Montreal and yes missing the well known Jazz Festival


-------------
Jean Charlebois


Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 13:21
Originally posted by superliga superliga wrote:

Now, while we are in the engine room.

Did anyone find a engine room blower less noisy than the factory mounted?

Mine is from "Attwood" and moves 6,7 M3 / minute in a 100 mm / 4" tube. 

Jabsco has a 7,1 M3 / minute version. But is it less noisy?






Mine is very quiet. In fact it does not exist. There is no engine room blower on my 320 as the factory stopped fitting them.

Charles

-------------
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway


Posted By: JonB
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 14:00
We have an SD50 sail drive and at the very front of it is about 4 or 5 slits, this is the water intake and we had weed over it causing steam to come out of the exhaust.

Motor backwards and see if it clears, fortunately for us, we'd come out of Cowes in to the Solent and the tide, together with a lumpy sea it cleared itself by the time we needed the engine again !

Suggest a diver inspects to ensure is clear if you don't fancy running the engine.


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Jon B
470e
http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk


Posted By: Swanji
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 15:08
Originally posted by CharlesP CharlesP wrote:

Originally posted by superliga superliga wrote:

Now, while we are in the engine room.

Did anyone find a engine room blower less noisy than the factory mounted?

Mine is from "Attwood" and moves 6,7 M3 / minute in a 100 mm / 4" tube. 

Jabsco has a 7,1 M3 / minute version. But is it less noisy?




Mine is very quiet. In fact it does not exist. There is no engine room blower on my 320 as the factory stopped fitting them.

Charles
 
Ours had been disconnected unbeknown to me. It was reconnected by our repair man when the engine was serviced earlier in March 2013 and it sounds absolutely terrible, especially when the engine is idling. I seem to recall that this may have something to do with its location being against a bulkhead and vibrating. I know that some owners have disconnected theirs and others have purchased replacement units that run quieter!
 
Ouch
 
 


-------------
Onwards and upwards

Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece

Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop


Posted By: JonB
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 15:47
Surely if you have a rubber 'washer/s' between it and the solid wall some of the vibration would be taken out ?

-------------
Jon B
470e
http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk


Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 21:22
Mine was already on the noise protection but still quite noisy. Actually louder than the engine when idling. I disconnected it years ago. Nut now I have isolated the engineroom very tight so I guess a blower will be needed.

-------------
PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com


Posted By: sailkoop
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 08:13
Hi Pearl,
What kind of Isolation you had used!? Do you have a supplier or an Internet adress?

-------------
best regards

Bjoern





Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 08:51
I used 30 mm isolation from a marine store called Biltema. It's approved according to EU regulations for leisure crafts. 
http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Ljudisolering/Ljuddampningsplatta-369214/

The plates are 500 x 1000 and i used 7 of them to be able to cover the entire machineroom. They are self adhesive so it's quite easy to just put them over the factorymounted 10 mm plates.

I also bought 50 meters of special tape to close all sides of the new isolations plates so everything is fireproof - and looks professional.

From the 7 plates I also cut 2 loose pieces I have stuck down from the back over the gear and air tubes. I could not find a way to fix them permanently - it would make servicing the SD impossible.

I have seen the same product in an other marine stores so I think it's possible to order in other countries. 
E.g. hjertmans.se, serach for "Motorrumsisolering, CE-godkänd "



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PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com


Posted By: pideas
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 12:33
Hi Superliga,
I have the model of Jabsco and the Noise is very low.
We go to Copenhagen in the End of Mai, Which Port you recommend??


-------------
Sailing is a Passion, ex Hanse 445, now Moody DS 54



H445#74


Posted By: superliga
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 17:17
Dragör is very nice and cosy you can go by bus to the center.
Kastrup, close to the new seacenter of Copenhagen.
Langelinie if you want to be very close to the center but have a quiet stay. 
Nyhavn if you want to be in the center and walk 5 meters for cool beers.
Chritianshavn, opposite from Nyhavn mooring between the houses and close to Christiania if you like a joint Smile

You can also moore right outside the queens palace. But there are no facilities e.g. water, power, toilets etc. 

There are lots of other harbours but these are the ones that springs to mind.

Have fun!




-------------
PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com


Posted By: sailkoop
Date Posted: 12 May 2013 at 15:33
Hi Pearl,
thx for the Information!!




-------------
best regards

Bjoern





Posted By: tobo
Date Posted: 12 May 2013 at 19:35
Another hint in case you have engines problems. Watch your freshwater level. If you loose water first check whether the water is collected under the engine or just not visible. The second is the worse case because it could mix with your engine oil (gasket replacement necessary). But most probably you have a leakage at the inlet opening as this is according to my Yanmar technician a common cause: the connection between the engine head (cast) and the inlet "neck" (steel) can leak as it is another material. It's a minor repair that can be done with epoxy two component type or by solding.

Generally I suggest to have done all repairs by a certified Yanmar or Volvo specialist. You may all be good at changing impellers or gaskets but remember your engine is the heart of your boat; if it fails you have a whole bunch of problems.




-------------
Thomi



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