Jefa Direct Drive Unit
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 400
Forum Description: 400 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7527
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:51
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Jefa Direct Drive Unit
Posted By: alanvkrasno
Subject: Jefa Direct Drive Unit
Date Posted: 02 June 2013 at 15:03
re Jefa DD1- I am experiencing a problem with my Jefa DD1 unit on a 2007 Hanse400e. The error message is AC ***current overload and the alarm sounds. An engineer found the motor draws 17 A. which is way too high. I suspect the motor in the unit but has anyone had similar issues and how were they resolved?? 
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Replies:
Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 02 June 2013 at 16:38
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Five possibilities: A) burned winding wires in the motor B) corroded ball bearings increasing the torque needed to turn the shaft C) burned or faulty clutch increasing the torque D) mechanical problem outside the motor increasing the load- in this case also the wheel would feel heavier. E) low supply voltage. In this case the electronics increase the current to keep the torque constant. Unless case D and E, the easiest and possibly cheapest therapie is to return the motor to Jefa although all industrial electric motor service centers could service it within 3-4 days. ------------- Panos Hanse 630e - selling her - |
Posted By: skipper
Date Posted: 03 June 2013 at 12:00
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I assume that the primary contact is the retailer of the autopilot solution. If I were you I should send a question directly to Jefa, they have a fantastic excellent support in all viewpoints: pre-sales, installation and after-sales. Check out Jefas web page for the latest contact information. I know that there has been several versions of the DD1 and I think mine is a version 2 / mk II. I also improved the sealing around the electrical connections based on tips from myHanse. ------------- Cheers, Skipper Former owner of Hanse 342 2005 (Sparcraft mast, white hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, short rudder) |
Posted By: graver
Date Posted: 03 June 2013 at 13:29
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I had problems on every long trip. Complained to Simrad and was told the unit should not be installed under the deck. Funny response since they knew where the unit was being installed. Jeffa tried to help and sent replacement parts but the unit was not up for the job. Many electrical problems and was just not powerful enough for rough seas. I installed an hydraulic unit and it has worked without incident. If you are going to go offshore I would replace the unit. Rich s/v Susie Q |
Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 04 June 2013 at 21:57
I believe I've had the very same problem for the last 3 years. The autopilot will run for 3-20 minutes before the current overload alarm goes off and it releases the steering. Definitely something wrong with the drive unit but I just haven't had the time, energy and motivation to remove the unit and spend a silly amount of money to get it fixed. ------------- Steve Hanse 400e, #168 |
alanvkrasno wrote:Posted By: gertha
Date Posted: 04 June 2013 at 22:32
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Panos, as always , has it in a nut shell, however he has brushed over in option "E" and missed the obvious ; a bad connection giving high resistance . I would sugest check all connections on feed to motor for corrosion , most likley problem on a 6 year old boat. Simon ------------- Swanned off |
Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 00:01
Most probably you are right. But I did not "brush" over under voltage possibility. On the contrary: possibilities D and E can and should be examined by the owner before starting to disassemble the drive or the actuator. If both D and E are excluded then I proposed to have the actuator examined by Jefa. By the way I believe that the electromechanical actuators (like Jefa's) are a better solution for offshore sailing than hydraulic ones since they consume less than half the power. My real love are the pure mechanical servo self steering units -as you might have guessed. ------------- Panos Hanse 630e - selling her - |
Posted By: Nigel Fontaine
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 03:26
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Has anyone had problems with water getting into the jeffa motor housing unit and causing the motor to rust? If so what solutions did you apply? |
Posted By: iemand
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 07:34
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There was a series of DD1 drives that had some problems with the sealing. Mine went back to JEFA and came back repaired under warranty. No issues since then. The drive is made to work even under water however I wouldn't hold the water hose directly on the drive. Try to get a fix from JEFA they know theire problem. You only need to be some weeks without a drive. BR Thomas
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Posted By: Brufan
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 08:26
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As far as I know DD1 mark 1 was only water resistant. Issue came from an air breather that allow air to expand in casing when motor heats. When drive cooled down air & damp (if not water) are suck through this breather and never leave the casing once trapped in. Then dammages occured. DD1 MK1 was design to be fitted iun a quite dry place wich is not the case on Hanses. As far as i know this issue was solved with DD1 MK2 (since 2010 ?) ------------- Bruno hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
Posted By: Peter Russell
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 11:50
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I had this problem on my 370 a couple of years ago. Kept on blowing fuses (interesting trying to find all the fuses in the system...). I took the unit to pieces and it was clear that water had got in - probably through the cover where the wires enter and (in my case) there is a fuse also in there. The motor had corroded badly and it was this that was causing the problem. The rest of the unit was still perfect. I emailed Jefa and there were no problems with them sending me a replacement motor which I fitted and then used liberal sealant to ensure water did not get in again. As some have said previously they are not designed to be used in areas where there is significant water. I guess the 400 is similar to the 370 in so much as to where the unit is placed and the ability for that area to flood when washing down or in heavy rain. Since I did the repair work it has worked perfectly  ------------- Peter Russell Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered" http://outnumbered.the-russells.net" rel="nofollow - http://outnumbered.the-russells.net |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 15:24
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Mk1 or Mk2? My drive from 2008 has two wires coming out from top as you see on jefa's pages. Seem to remember a picture of a drive unit with an access plate where wires came form. Thought this was the problem units. Now the question: What should I do with my drive from 2008? No problem so far, but reading about it I wander if I should add sikaflex to the wire joints and try more to make it waterproof. Or possibly open it and look for water? -------------  Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 16:53
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Hi, I would try to open it anyway. There are gears inside and all gearboxes need lubricant change every now and then. I regularly open and change lubricant and seals every two years to anchor windlass and bow thruster and every four years to electric winches ,electric furler (Bamar) and steering system reducers. The Jefa autopilot motor and gears escaped till now. I will do it over the winter. Also check- in case the electric motor has brushes- if they are worn and need replacement and if the clutch is clean of dust. ------------- Panos Hanse 630e - selling her - |
Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 17:00
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I put silicon around the areas and wires where they enter the unit. No problem so far except for a fuse blowing last season. I've since bought a job lot of 12 fuses so that should guarantee that .particular fuse will not blow again. Charles ------------- 'MERIDIAN LADY' 320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 17:12
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By the way.... The clutch... how much current does it draw? I read something that it draws 1.5 ampere. Is it really that much? I have also read that the hole unit draws around 2 ampere. Then I would say that there is a lot to save if another design could remove the clutch. This all makes sense as my prevoius Autohelm 4000 wheelpilot was using around 0.5 ampere and there was no clutch. All this is more or less flat water and little wind. Is this right? ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 17:14
Good idea to fill the boat up with fuses..... Then no fuse will ever break. 
------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Brufan
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 17:22
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The clutch uses 1,5 Amp but only when it en/disengage. ------------- Bruno hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 19:27
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I am afraid you are wrong Brufan. Found this: Electro magnetic clutch: On the moment the mechanical steering system on the yacht is manually operated, the autopilot drive has to be disconnected from the steering system. This is achieved with the electro-magnetic clutch and controlled automatically by the autopilot junction box. Jefa has developed a unique and patented engagement clutch. The solution is based on two electrically operated spring loaded clutch pins that engage and disengage the outer gear ring of the planetary gear step. This solution has multiple advantages over the existing friction plate clutches: As I understand this, it says it draws 1.4 ampere only for the clutch: "
When the clutch isn't powered, it's disengaged and engaged when powered."
Pitty ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Lippe
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 21:48
Hi, I put flexible (garden) water hoses around el- wires, sikaflexed hoses to the DD1 unit and brought them though the hull inside the boat wires inside. This way the the unit can breath and wires & connections remain dry. Best Regards Kari |
Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 05 June 2013 at 22:30
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Hi, While the clutch draws something between 0.7 and 1.5 A only while engaged the total consumption of the unit depends on the conditions and the sail trim. The pilot can supply a whopping 30A to the Jefa motor and to supply this power I estimate that draws more than 40A from the battery (a 75% efficiency is normal in electronic power circuits). Of course this high consumption is only during a course correction under max load. Depending on conditions only about 5% of the time the pilot will actualy turn the rudder and I also estimate that only 30% of max power will be used so the average current will calculate something like 0.05X40/3=0.67A. To this we have to add the power drawn by the clutch and the control unit. Total amperes calculate to about 2.5A But engage the above pilot in big wave conditions, sailing downwind carrying a spinnaker and the pilot makes corrections using maximum power at a 30% duty cycle. The the average amperage could be 0.3X40=12A plus 1.5A for the clutch and electronics which add up to 13-14A. Overheating and fuse blowing will be expected. ------------- Panos Hanse 630e - selling her - |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 06 June 2013 at 14:39
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Agree with you panos. Normally I steer by hand when it is tough. It is only when the wind is very light I have ever used the autopilot for a long time. Then the 1.4 ampere for the clutch is quite a lot. This pilot then uses four times as much power as my old simple wheel-pilot. If it is tough and the autopilot draw over 10 ampere, you cannot use the autopilot for a long time without the motor. I happen to be that sailor that hates to run for shore power all the time. ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: alanvkrasno
Date Posted: 06 June 2013 at 16:45
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Thanks for all the replies. All very helpful. I have a firm removing the DD1 and sending it to Jefa. They quote 200-500 for an overhaul and replacement parts. A fraction of a new model. Sadly I had only recently done an auto tuning reset on the Simrad Computer and the Auto was going like a dream even in choppy seas and cross swell. The only problem is if the boat is over canvassed and would be rounding up with or without the Auto engaged. Jefa do seem to be nice to deal with , it just remains to be seen what their 'turn-around' time is at the factory. Still its fun to hand steer. Just done 300 nM from Hamble to The Scillies and now to The Channel Isles. Who needs an auto!!
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Posted By: alanvkrasno
Date Posted: 25 June 2013 at 08:24
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Follow up on the DD1 drive. The unit has come back from Jefa, cost was 658 Euros incl return carriage and they fitted a new motor. Still cheaper than a new one. |
Posted By: alanvkrasno
Date Posted: 25 June 2013 at 21:55
| Fitted the DD1 today. Not difficult and I see Jefa advise and supply a 10 A protective fuse. Something Hanse/Jefa should have supplied originally I reckon. |
Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 25 June 2013 at 23:51
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Glad you are pleased with Jeffa service. Everyone seems to say the same. Where is the 10amp fuse located? Charles ------------- 'MERIDIAN LADY' 320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
Posted By: alanvkrasno
Date Posted: 04 July 2013 at 22:08
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Yes the 10A fuse was supplied by Jefa and the unit has long enough wires to allow it to be placed outside the sub floor cavity behind the wheel binnacle. Through the waterproof gland. |
Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 05 July 2013 at 00:05
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Yes that is where mine is installed by the factory. Charles ------------- 'MERIDIAN LADY' 320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
Posted By: Sianthis
Date Posted: 10 July 2013 at 11:24
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In the drive is another fuse. ------------- Andrι S/Y Sianthis Hanse 375 (depth 1.95, three cabins, teakdek, main sheet traveller in cockpit) |
Posted By: MikeMeer
Date Posted: 16 July 2013 at 18:03
Upgrading to a hydraulic ram would save you allot of headaches and save power.  ------------- Mike- mike@southboundcruising.com |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 29 August 2013 at 15:34
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My autopilot stopped working last weekend. No errors. No movement. It moved the wheel a couple of times when I tried again. I removed the Jefa DD1 drive and it would not rotate when I connected it to 12V. Opened it from bottom side, took out the motor (carefull with the wires to the clutch) and opened this too. There I found that one motor brush was stuck. The spring had started to rust. Tried to clean everything, sprayed with WD40 and assembled all again. This will probably last for some time. But I should get a new motor. There was no water or anything. Probably the rust was just the humidity from the air inside. The motor was "made in china".
Anyone know where to get brushes and springs? ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 29 August 2013 at 18:31
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Hi, In Greece there are a few small businesses making them to order, although they last about half than the original. The brushes are very cheap so when I order I order for a decade. ------------- Panos Hanse 630e - selling her - |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 29 August 2013 at 18:45
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Silly me, I should have measured the brushes and the spring. The brushes will probably last for a long time still but not the spring if they rust more. Please measure these if anyone else open the motor. ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 29 August 2013 at 23:31
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The crossection you have from the brush case. The length doesn't matter since you can order longer and cut to length. In any case you can deduct the length from your picture. The spring is almost standard. My guess is that if you find a specialized shop for brushes they will be able to help you. An idea how to find one (beside Internet and yellow pages) is to visit a hand tool repair shop - where they service small tools like Black and Decker. For sure they know ------------- Panos Hanse 630e - selling her - |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 30 August 2013 at 07:24
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I think we may get it from ebay (China) too, but I did not measure the crossection. Should also have the diameter and length of the spring. You neet to do some soldering to change the brush. ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Brufan
Date Posted: 28 March 2016 at 20:56
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This time it for me ! My autopilot stopped working this weekend with "rudder response failure" alarm. Autopilot worked only one way with almost no torque before alarm rings. Clutch is ok but motor seems to be out. I will let you know. ------------- Bruno hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
Posted By: shaukaas
Date Posted: 21 April 2016 at 04:04
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Anyone succeeded locating a spare pancake motor outside Jefa, who are overcharing on spareparts? I've found following links to similar products: http://www.fustat.com/pz6b8c966-cz5c85b93-small-dc-12v-70w-printed-armature-winding-motor-brushed-dc-pancake-motor-printed-motor-for-mobility-equipment.html http://www.goldenmotor.com/frame22.htm Golden Motor in China do not answer e-mails, however. I am tempted to put 1 motor on order, just to give it a test. Any concerns? ------------- S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171 LG3600 - NOR13510 |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 21 April 2016 at 10:03
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I too will try an order a motor from goldenmotor. But my motor that i fixed in 2013 is still working ok. See above. ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Brufan
Date Posted: 21 April 2016 at 15:11
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Just an update My drive had been on Holiday in Denmark for 10 days. Very fast & effective feedback from Jefa. Cost : 396 EUR That's life... BTW It should not happen if Hanse had fitted the drive elsewhere than in a wet 'locker' under cockpit floor. OK it is easy access but the drive is getting flushed by water sometimes. Although the drive is said to be waterproof It must be better if it is fitted in a dry place. ------------- Bruno hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 21 April 2016 at 17:26
The 2 links that you provide are different mechanically (size), have you accurately measured the original Jefa unit? Goldenmotor - the picture near the top of the page labeled JD-PM-24 looks similar to the original Jefa unit. However, at the bottom of the page, the picture and the mechanical drawing with the labels JD-PM-12 and JD-PM-24 look nothing like what you want. The picture shows no output gear, just a shaft. Not sure if the gear is removable from the original Jefa unit. Fustat - same comment about the output gear.... Personally, I popped for the right unit direct from Jefa. It's a pain in the butt enough servicing the unit yourself without having to screw around for weeks with trial and error with half a$$ parts. Good luck ------------- Steve Hanse 400e, #168 |
Posted By: shaukaas
Date Posted: 21 April 2016 at 21:22
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Seems like I would just have to give up one this one, then - and return the damn thing back to Jefa in Denmark for the 3rd time since it was new in 2008. One of the two previous was covered by Hanse under warranty, despite both should have. That's another story... I've been quoted 300,- for the work + 63,- for return shipping. I would then have to pay additional 70-100 to ship the unit to Denmark - a total sum of 400-500. I think this is ridiculous for something said to be "greased for life" with "no need for service." The problem I believe is the clutch system, causing the unit to "stall" and have little force onto the rudder. When opening the unit, the pancake motor for some strange reason ceased under my curiosity of spinning its axle by my fingertips. However - planning for a ~400nm offshore cruise (Stavanger, Norway - Lerwick, Shetland) in about a month, my options remains few. It would probably be an option to just order the spares from Denmark, and then do the screwing (around) myself... ------------- S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171 LG3600 - NOR13510 |
Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 22 April 2016 at 17:15
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By the way, when I exchanged messages with Jefa and when they sent the new motor to me, I received excellent written instructions and other support and hints from them on how to better make the unit water tight and last longer. The repair went very quickly. ------------- Steve Hanse 400e, #168 |
Posted By: Peter Russell
Date Posted: 22 April 2016 at 19:54
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I too had a replacement motor sent from Jefa after mine failed through water ingress. Yes, it was easy to fit having refurbished the inside of the drive unit. I don't think it is fair to blame Jefa for Hanse installing the drive unit in an exposed position. Anyway I sealed mine up with liberal doses of sealant and its been fine for 4 years now. ------------- Peter Russell Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered" http://outnumbered.the-russells.net" rel="nofollow - http://outnumbered.the-russells.net |
Posted By: shaukaas
Date Posted: 22 April 2016 at 20:48
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Any of you have any thoughts using an Epoxy or PlastiDip on the exterior of the unit, to further water-proof it? ------------- S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171 LG3600 - NOR13510 |
Posted By: Peter Russell
Date Posted: 23 April 2016 at 08:35
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I just took a tube of external grade silicone and plastered it on anywhere I thought may be a potential leak site. A rather blunt tool, but cheap and has worked well for 4 years. I think the main problem on mine was where the cables came in through the grommet rather than the casing. Clearly I have not touched where the actuator comes through the case - I guess that is well sealed. ------------- Peter Russell Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered" http://outnumbered.the-russells.net" rel="nofollow - http://outnumbered.the-russells.net |
Posted By: Heikki
Date Posted: 27 April 2016 at 08:49
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Hi, I have Simrad AP25 Autopilot System with Jefa Direct Drive Unit and AC10 Computer on my 2006 Hanse 400e. My problem is small rapid movements (the wheel is turning 1 - 2 cm back and forth). This does not affect the steering but obviously consumes Amps. Has anybody had the same? Heikki |
Posted By: shaukaas
Date Posted: 27 April 2016 at 10:02
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Are you using FC40 (fluxgate), RC25 (Rate gyro) or other? I had the same using FC40. Replaced with RC25 and huge improvement, especially in waves. ------------- S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171 LG3600 - NOR13510 |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 27 April 2016 at 10:36
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I had to adjust the gain etc. manually. If I used the automatic setup, the autopilot oversteered and had to correct itself all the time. I have the simpler RC40 Compass. No problem.
------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Heikki
Date Posted: 27 April 2016 at 13:06
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Good question Shaukaas, where is the compass normally placed? I have not managed to locate it on my Hanse 400e. Heikki |
Posted By: shaukaas
Date Posted: 27 April 2016 at 13:15
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I am note sure of where it's located in a 400e, but on my 2008 320 it's under the aft-cabin berth - midships. ------------- S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171 LG3600 - NOR13510 |
Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 27 April 2016 at 13:49
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In a 2006 400e (mine is a 2007) it is likely in the port side hanging locker in the v-berth. ------------- Steve Hanse 400e, #168 |
Posted By: shaukaas
Date Posted: 19 May 2016 at 05:41
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In the last minute I decided to open the unit at home, and order the required spares from Jefa. This reduced my bills down to approximately 350: New clutch set and pancake motor. Easy job to replace these, and instructions were included/available from the Internet anyways. The unit is definitely not designed to be located in the cockpit-drain. There are too many possible entries for water and humidity. I sealed all the sandwich-layers with grease (acidfree vaseline) + used a sealant on between the two lower parts. The whole unit has then been covered with plastidip (1 layer done, planning to do 3) + I will add some grease on the simmering around the output-shaft. I've got a 440nm trip across the North Sea coming up next week; so let's see how the unit will perform. And also I'm curious to see for how long this thing will last until the next repair is due... ------------- S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171 LG3600 - NOR13510 |
Posted By: Brufan
Date Posted: 04 September 2016 at 17:26
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Sorry to say that I have the same issue again. Does anyone knows how to solve this problem ? Does anyone managed to seal the drive or the bay where it lays ? Thanks ------------- Bruno hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
Posted By: charentebob
Date Posted: 04 September 2016 at 19:59
| I had one of these units fail on my 370 in 2014. I sent it to Jefa for repair & although not guaranteed for life, they said if sealed properly it should be OK for a very long time. They made a modification to the way the wires entered the unit as this was the source of the water ingress. It was not sealed as shaukass has done, although this may be a good thing to do. |
Posted By: Heikki
Date Posted: 18 November 2016 at 14:14
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Sorry, but rate compass in 400e still not found. Could you please give some more hints. Heikki |
Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 18 November 2016 at 17:05
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Heikki Not sure where you've looked but on my 2007 it can be found in the port side cabinet in the forward berth (V-berth). I believe I've also heard of them being in the cabinet of the port side aft quarter berth. Steve ------------- Steve Hanse 400e, #168 |
Posted By: alidal
Date Posted: 18 November 2016 at 19:18
In my 2010 H400 it is under the cabinet in port side aft cabin..
 ------------- Hanse 400#655 |
Posted By: Heikki
Date Posted: 20 November 2016 at 14:29
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Rate compass finally found. It was in the forward cabin port side hanging locker as Steve said half a year ago. I just didn't find it as it is on the upper part of the locker. The instructions say it should be installed close to the water line, so I was looking down! Anyway, it is type RFC35 and my problem is the almost constant turning of wheel about 5 - 10 cm back and forth when the autopilot is on. This is certainly not good for autopilot drive motor and it also consumes amps. I have tried the manual parameter adjust without succes. I haven't performed the dockside settings and the sea trial. I suppose, I should do this first as there was nothing wrong with the compass installation (not too close to magnetic objects). Heikki |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 21 November 2016 at 09:42
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Seems like you have the problem I had. Probably only the gain is too high. When I did the dockside and sea trial the autopilot was mad. I just lowered the gain setting and it has been fine since. ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Heikki
Date Posted: 21 November 2016 at 16:19
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Hi Sea-U, Could you please explain how you lowered the gain setting. In my manual "gain" is only mentioned under Depth Contour and Depth gain. "Use the gain control to have a firm or smooth response to the variation in depth". Heikki |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 22 November 2016 at 10:02
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I cannot remember what it says on the autopilot. There are two settings: gain and response. I think the "response" word is used, may be another word for gain. The gain setting will influence how much rudder is given to correct a cource. If too much, you get this behaviour. The boat turns too much and it has to turn the rudder the other way ... and again it does this too much ... and so on. ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Heikki
Date Posted: 16 December 2016 at 13:42
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Hi, I have now performed the dockside settings and the seatrial including fine tuning. The autopilot is now working much better especially on sail but is still sometimes "restless" (wheel turning 5 - 10 cm back and forth) when motoring. During the test there was not much wind and the sea was quite flat. I also changed the response to level 1 instead of the default 3. Is there still something I should try with the parameters or should I consider rate compass in addition to RFC35 as Jesper is doing in "Improvements to autopilot". Regards, Heikki |
Posted By: Heikki
Date Posted: 05 July 2017 at 09:31
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Hi, A reply to my own question of Dec 16, 2016: In the manual the "restlessness" of the wheel is obviously called hunting and this can be adjusted by setting the Rudder deadband to 1 deg instead of Auto. I did this and the autopilot is now working fine. Regards, Heikki |
Posted By: DJgun
Date Posted: 23 December 2020 at 11:57
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What are newer versions of Autopilots like When I purchased my 400e 2007 manufacture early in 2020, the Autopilot drive unit was missing. As part of overall refurbishment I fitted a B&G DD15 Autopilot drive made by Jefa and identical dimensions to original unit. At the same time I replaced the Fluxgate heading compass with the latest B&G Precision-9 solid-state compass, fitted on centreline and close to waterl evel under the front Pullman berth, and also replaced the Autopilot computer with B&G NAC-3 unit. The autotune process was very easy after commissioning the Compass first. Maiden voyage was 532Nm mostly about 50-60Nm off the East coast of Australia, during which we got caught for 10 hours in unpleasant weather, with following breeze up to 43Kn, and average 35-38Kn. Sailing with 3 reefs in the mainsail, about 30% headsail, and steep following seas. The performance of this Autopilot combination was truly awesome, vastly superior to any Autopilot I've ever come across, and better than helmsman I've ever sailed with could at night in those conditions. We sailed 150-160 degrees TWA the whole time using the Autopilot. During that time we were broached about 50 times during after rudder limit was reached , and a warning displayed on the chartplotter, but the Autopilot stayed engaged and made incredible recovery of course in incredibly short time. It has a special control feature now that it will automatically retune itself to changed conditions. Just like magic. During that storm our maximum speed over ground was recorded as 18Kn, and in those 10 hours we travelled 120Nm. All the while using the Autopilot to helm despite 2 experienced helmsman onboard. We both agreed the Autpilot could do it better, 100% consistent. If you think your Autopilot isn't doing a good job, I suggest you seriously consider upgrading to the latest 9-Axis compass and Autopilot computer. They are just like magic how well this latest technology works. You might be amazed, as we were.
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Posted By: DJgun
Date Posted: 25 May 2025 at 03:30
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Since the initial passage the drive has very little use. Towards end of 2024 problems started occurring, and finally it needed overhaul. The problems are not wear or overload related, they are all because of water ingress into the drive. I have posted pictures in other forum topics. What lubricant have people used when rebuilding these drives? ------------- DJ.....Sailor Ordinaire HIN DE-HANJ0331J708 |