Hi - I am hoping to get a 312 in the near future.

One question I have is regarding the boom vang.  I am used to rope or wire "kicking straps" on sailing dinghies,  but notice some yachts have solid boom vangs.  What are the benefits of these and are they worth installing ?  Although I have sailed dinghies and the occasional bigger boat, neither my wife or 4yr old son have sailing experience - soed this make any difference ?  We will be sailing in the UK Lake District.

Any suggestiosn would be most appreciated.

thanks

I have recently fitted a Barton Boom Strut to my 301.  I did so to make it much easier when single handed.  It replaces the topping lift and works in opposition to the kicking strap.  It means when raising the mainsail, the sail goes up and I just tweak the kicking strap to suit.  When lowering the sail, I just lower the sail and the boom strut supports the boom.  Again, when reefing, I ease the kicker (so that the boom goes a bit higher), part lower the sail, haul in the reefing line, then raise the sail aginst the reef.

Previously, with the topping lift secured at the mast, I would have to jump forward to the mast at the start and finish of each operation.

The Barton Boom Strut is a little less elegant than some gas struts, but it is easy to fit, cheaper and does exactly what it says on the tin.  It is the best £100 ish mod that I have done to the boat.

Are you referring to struts such as the Barton strut which holds the boom up or a solid kicker to hold the boom down?

I would not bother with aboom strut on a hanse 312

Unlike the previous owner I have lead the topping lift back to the cockpit so it can be adjusted in seconds

When the sails are furled I have a hook on the backstay on a 6 inch line which allows me to anchor the boom end & stop it swinging about. As a result the boomstrut is superfluous

Incidentally as a side-- I have altered the zip on the sail cover so that it starts at the mast end NOT the boom end. There is nothing worse than trying to catch a swinging boom whilst standing up in the cockpit & trying to engage the zip

A couple of years ago off Bafleur my wife was swung over the side whilst trying to catch a swinging boom to do up the zip

By starting the zip at the mast end I can put both hands round the mast when lowering the sail & hold on whilst engaging the start of the zip. As I walk aft I hold on with one hand & zip up with the other. If the boom swings I just let it go.

Back to the kicker. I get the feeling that with a large main I need more kicker when off the wind. However, when one looks at how flimsy a Hanse boom is compared with the Maxi or the Parker yachts of the same size . I am concerned the boom may break

Hanse supply the kicker with silly little 6mm flat shackles on the kicker blocks & to date I have broken 4 kickers. 3 at the shackles.I suspect that if I put in a wire kicker there may be little "give" & a more solid shock in a load situation possibly breaking the boom

I stick with the rope kicker to allow a little flex . Plus it is easier to replace a shackle than a boom

Whilst on shackles--I make the point that the backstay of a Hanse 312 has the same shackles on the backstay. I have  changed these & beefed up the tackle from 8 to one from 4 to one. I have installed a restrictor rope so that if the shackles on the backstay broke, the mast would judder forward a bit but hopefully not enough to break as the restrictor rope takes the load. Why on earth Hanse put such cheap bits of kit in what is such a fantastic boat is beyond me

Daydream Believer

Thanks for your replies - I hadn't realised that there was a boom lift, seperate from a "solid" vang.  I think that I will have to look at some boats properly to see how they work. 

 However, I do like the idea of trailing the toppig lift back to the cockpit.

Samuel - was the zip modification difficult ?

Thanks again.

Tumnus

Just to add my three peneth worth. Scotch Mist is a 312. We have only the kicking strap and manage OK.  A strut though might have its uses - at the moment we need to go to the mast to adjust the topping lift when setting and folding the main plus reefing.

I like the idea of leading topping lift back to cockpit and also how about the kicking stap tail? I've previously 'scoped this' but it seemed to involve a fair bit of alteration to deck organisers and clutches so I put it back to the end of the list! - got any photos Samuel.   The other idea which I like is the anchor line from back stay to boom end - that sounds very do- able and very useful. 

The pads for the halliard jammers on the port side of the cabin have space for 2 more jammers. As you know these are about £ 70-00 each. I found 2 old very large nylon camcleats ( The rigid type that probably cost a fiver each nowadays) & bolted them in the space. There appears to be an aluminium plate set in the pad so I drilled it to  the correct  depth & tapped it with a standard 8mm tap & bolted the cleats on with SS machine screws. One cleat does the topping lift & the other the cunningham or the third reef line ( Which I have had fitted recently) I have fitted an extra spinlock set of fairleads on top of the existing ones near the mast which bolt on top of the old ones just by using longer bolts to give extra feeders.

 To free up one of the jammers on the starboard side I have altered the route of the self tacker jib sheet.

I have attached a block to a 2 foot length of line which is tied to the toe rail about mid way between feeder & jammer and adjusted to lead the sheet from the haliard fairleads/feeders to the genoa winch. This is much better as on one tack I can adjust the sheet when single handed plus when I want to reef or adjust the kicker etc I do not have to take the jib sheet off the winch drum. I tend to leave the main haliard on the winch drum if nothing else is on it as it takes the load off the jammer & reduces wear & is always ready for reefing etc

Regarding the zipper, I had to have it repaired when a novice crew was trying to zip up the main when the boat was rolling. He was standing on the cockpit seats & lost his balance & did not let go of the zip & ripped the slider off.

So it meant a new zip ,but I had it fitted the other way round. Cost £ 50-00 but well worth it in the end