jib furler very very hard
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Topic: jib furler very very hard
Posted By: anemon
Subject: jib furler very very hard
Date Posted: 06 September 2015 at 15:56
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my jib furler under the deck is very very hard . have you an idea? thanks ------------- new owner |
Replies:
Posted By: iemand
Date Posted: 06 September 2015 at 16:04
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Is it Facnor or Furlex TD? ------------- Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007 |
Posted By: anemon
Date Posted: 06 September 2015 at 16:08
It is a Facnor furler , I have to wrap the winch . it is just under the deck that he return pulleys ?
------------- new owner |
Posted By: StavrosNZ
Date Posted: 07 September 2015 at 02:43
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I have 2010 400 with furlex under deck fuller and it also was very difficult to furl, the problem is made up of a number of fixes as follows: 1. rope exists the furling drum inside the anchor locker and runs through a footblock thats bolted to side of the anchor locker. Problem is the angle of the footblock is not correct and you get serious resistance. I unbolted the footblock and mounted a folding padeye instead, there is an aluminium plate moulded into the hull lay up in this area so you can drill and tap into if needed. Then fit 50mm ball bearing block onto the folding payee, you now have a block that will orientate correctly to the rope angle. 2. don't run your furling line under the stanchion bases (factory setup) looks sleek but lots of resistance, on my 400 each stanchion base is approx 45mm wide and there is 7 of them including side entry gates which = lots of friction, instead i fitted factor stainless bulls eyes on each stanchion above stanchion base = less friction. 3. get rid of the 2:1 arrangement on your job sheet it creates huge resistance when trying to furl. On a 400 the jib is only 35m2 its a small sail area, i replaced the 12mm factory job sheet with 10mm dyneema one and run the sheet through the block on the self tacker track and either tie it directly to the clew board or in my case, i spliced a loop and use a soft shackle to attach it to the jib clew board. Based on these changes i can furl my jib by hand from the cockpit. NEVER USE A WINCH, RISK OF DAMAGING FURLER, FORESTAY ETC IS HIGH.
------------- Stephen 2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
Posted By: sailkoop
Date Posted: 07 September 2015 at 10:15
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Hi Anemon, how old your Facnor Furler is? I've had the same Problem. My Dealer told me, that there was an upgrade of the rotating parts to my existing ones! My Furler was out of 2008! They had change the Swivel on Top and the drum on the bottom. Don't asked about the Price  !!------------- best regards Bjoern |
Posted By: SausalitoDave
Date Posted: 08 September 2015 at 01:04
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Stephen: What do you mean by "factor stainless bulls eyes". Dave
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Posted By: anemon
Date Posted: 08 September 2015 at 08:51
thanks for the answers ------------- new owner |
Posted By: StavrosNZ
Date Posted: 09 September 2015 at 19:16
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Hi Dave, sorry Facnor, stanchion mounted bulls eyes, these are all stainless round bulls eye that bolts onto the stanchion, much less friction. ------------- Stephen 2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
Posted By: iemand
Date Posted: 09 September 2015 at 21:20
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I took Harken ballbearing ones, just perfect! ------------- Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007 |
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 10 September 2015 at 10:56
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I have got another problem with my Facnor furler. It is working ok now. But when I hoisted the sail this spring, it almost stuck. Had to use a lot of force to get the sail up. I did not investigate it then ... should have...  Anyone familiar with this? I hope I manage to lower the sail. ------------- Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Posted By: Bruno
Date Posted: 22 September 2015 at 15:54
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I have the same problem on our 400 and have read the comments. You get a lot of friction caused by the sheet that twists between the block and the traveller. I send someone at the mast to pull down the jib sheet, which releases the tension and to untwist the sheet at the block. I can then furl it manually. My explanation; the twist is created when winching the sheet around the drum. The turns on the sheet are transferred over it's length. Inverting the sheet or replacing it should postpone the effect, at least, I hope... ------------- Bruno Hanse 400, 2010 Hull 660, Canadian flag sailing Lake Champlain, VT USA |
Posted By: iemand
Date Posted: 22 September 2015 at 16:17
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I also suggest the block on the selftacker with a fixed swifel (not turning) and a tapered dyneema sheet with 6mm pure Dyneema on 8-10mm Sheet behind the mast. That makes a big difference as well. ------------- Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007 |
Posted By: Lippe
Date Posted: 22 September 2015 at 20:25
| Iemand. Can you explain more the " with 6mm pure Dyneema on 8-10mm Sheet behind the mast. " |
Posted By: StavrosNZ
Date Posted: 07 February 2017 at 21:41
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Old thread revived, further to the changes i made already noted in this thread i have also replaced the through factory through-deck block which had 40mm sheave with Selden version that has 57mm sheave. Means furling line has larger diameter sheave to bend around, this and the other upgrades means Selden TD furler can easily be furled by hand. uploads/4780/Through_deck_block.pdf" rel="nofollow - uploads/4780/Through_deck_block.pdf uploads/4780/Through_deck_block_2.pdf" rel="nofollow - uploads/4780/Through_deck_block_2.pdf uploads/4780/Anchor_locker_furler_block.pdf" rel="nofollow - uploads/4780/Anchor_locker_furler_block.pdf uploads/4780/Anchor_locker_furler_block.pdf" rel="nofollow - uploads/4780/Anchor_locker_furler_block.pdf ------------- Stephen 2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
Posted By: harveymolly
Date Posted: 22 February 2017 at 06:03
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I have read through your posts with interest and intend to make the changes which you suggested. Its been a few years since you last posted on this topic, I wondered if there were any updates. We have had to have 2 repairs to our jib which could have been avoided if the jib was not such a pain to furl.
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Posted By: Bruno
Date Posted: 22 February 2017 at 15:31
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Last summer I furled the jib from the through-deck point much more easily, concluding that I had a lot of resistance between the through-deck and cockpit. I intend to replace the leading stanchion blocks by bearing ones to reduce friction. ------------- Bruno Hanse 400, 2010 Hull 660, Canadian flag sailing Lake Champlain, VT USA |
Posted By: StavrosNZ
Date Posted: 05 May 2019 at 06:36
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Old thread updated, last and final amendment to get my Selden through deck furler smooth and furling by hand, align the under deck block perfectly with through deck block by using dyneema loops to get the block dead centre.
These are Ronstan 6mm x 120mm loops.  ------------- Stephen 2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |