reefing lines
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 300 / 301
Forum Description: 300 & 301 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9355
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:40
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Topic: reefing lines
Posted By: perry
Subject: reefing lines
Date Posted: 02 December 2015 at 19:01
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I am a new owner of 301. Standard Main and single line reefing [I think?] The yacht was stripped for transport by a yard. And itsa big bag of rope and some blocks? I am struggling to rig the main and its reefing lines. Anybody help with a sketch of how to run lines. ------------- Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
Replies:
Posted By: charentebob
Date Posted: 03 December 2015 at 09:46
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Perry I can't help you but maybe forum member YEOMAN can. He is Hanse Agent, Inspiration Marine on the Hamble I think. I asked them a question about bowsprit on older 400s & they came back with a very full answer. I'm sure he could help you. Hope this helps. |
Posted By: Taylor
Date Posted: 03 December 2015 at 18:40
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Perry I cant help with sketch but here goes with a description of our set up I hope you still have the reefing lines in the boom? If not it it makes life a bit more difficult!. Basically you have a continuous line that runs from the clutch on the cabin top forward through the deck organiser to a pulley at the mast foot. It then is threaded through a stainless loop on the port side of the mast and runs up to a pulley on the luff reefing point on the sail. This line then comes back down to the fixed pulley on the inner end of the boom at the gooseneck and is then threaded through the boom to the matching fixed pulley at the back end of the boom . This is then taken up to the appropriate reefing cringle through and down to the matching fastening eye on the underside of the boom. Fix with a simple bowline. My boat is stripped down and I dont think I have any pictures but I hope this narrative is enough to get you started! What should happen is as you release the haliard and wind on the single line it pulls the sail mounted pulley down to between the mast and the inner end of the boom and then the leech cringle pulls the aft part of the sail down and foot tension is adjusted by winding it on hard whilst the kicker is released and the topping lift or gas strut supports the boom. Steve. ------------- Hanse 301 Bluenote 11 |
Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 03 December 2015 at 20:22
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Thanks very much for that Steve. If its not too windy on the mooring I'll sort that tomorrow. I did managed to jury two reef lines to get my new boat back from Gosport last Friday afternoon. I was rushing to get back to Cowes before the real gales started. And I see what your saying. One more bit of help please. Is the clew outhaul also rigged inside Boom? And further, in my pile of bits, threaded on one reefing line is a double block? Where/how might this fit into the reefing system? ------------- Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
Posted By: Taylor
Date Posted: 03 December 2015 at 21:03
------------- Hanse 301 Bluenote 11 |
perry wrote:Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 03 December 2015 at 22:20
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Yes I can see there may be lots of friction in the lines. Today I have stripped off the single speed Haliard winches Number 8's, and am replacing with a couple of used two speed number 16's I had in my spare box. The oridinals were basic with plain bearings [lots friction] the two speed winches have double needle roller bearings. I dont normally dive in before actually sailing the boat but this seemed a logical good change. Unfortunately the two speed units have different hole patterns [due to the gear on thebottom plate, and I need to tap new threads. I attempted to remove the head lining under the winches, the stbd side OK, but on the port side in the toilet, it defeated me. I got all the screws out, cut the sealer used to pretty up the joint line. But the complex shape wouldnt move far enough to access. Tomorrow equiped with a jig saw I will cut it into two parts. It should be a simple job to tap new holes in the Aluminium sheet bonded into the coach roof moulding. Thanks again for your help, Hope you are enjoying my saga, I cant wait to get reefing right, then I only have the bag full of lazy jack and stack pack bits to sort? Then I go sailing! ------------- Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 17 December 2015 at 16:29
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Thanks Taylor, I found it easy to tap M8 threads into the aluminium pads in the coach roof, maybe I didnt need to have cut the toilet headliner, but I needed to see that no damage occured when my drills and tap went through. I have rigged 1st and second reefing lines and tested on mooring. The third reef was more problematical, but have manage a setup that should? work, but for last days the wind has been two high to test on mooring. I have fitted a forth line in the boom for main sail foot outhaul, using the jamber in the goose neck end of boom. Right; now I need to fit my best ebay prize of two lewmar 30's for genoa winching, to double on spinnaker sheet guy duty. Having learn the lesson [dont cut up the headlining if you donthave to?] Can anyone tell me where I might find glassed in pads to screw primary winches down??? ------------- Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
Posted By: Martin&Rene
Date Posted: 17 December 2015 at 21:19
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if you put "3rd reefing line" into the advanced searches and make sure you look at all dates, you will find some other discussions. I could not find the idea that that I copied. On my boom, I have 4 pulleys inthe boom and at the front there are 2 going up and 2 going down. The third reef leech line is rigged as normal going into the boom at the back and it comes out through the spare down pulley at the front of the boom. I then have a single pulley with becket which is fastened with rope to kicker mast fitting and held up to the goose-neck with shockcord. The reefing line then then goes around through this and back up to the 3rd reef luff cringle It then goes back to pulleys at the bottom of the mast and I added an extra organiser and clutch on the cabin roof. Lots of rope and friction, but it does reduce the amount of work at the mast, just at a time when it is rough. ------------- Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland |
Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 02 June 2016 at 21:00
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Perry, I will soon be in a marina in the Cardif barrage in about a week or so time , if you can travel, you pop up and I will show you around or if you cannot then I could take some photos and try a sketch but sketching is not my bag. Pm me if I can help in any way... Dave ------------- Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp) 
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Posted By: sailingfree
Date Posted: 10 June 2016 at 21:50
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I'd just like to add my thoughts. Originally Dragonfly had the single line reefing setup, but to be honest I thought this was just not efficient, safe, or allowed a good shape to the sail be be achieved, and ended up requiring a lot of winching to put a reef in. I have converted mine to use two reefing horns at the mast end of the boom to clip the reef points to and kept the reefing lines to pull then clew down afterwards. Even single handed this works well and means I can keep the tension on the luff using the halyard. slightly more work and yes you do have to go on deck, but much less friction and less string in the cockpit after a reed makes this a worthwhile option. |
Posted By: Rock
Date Posted: 11 June 2016 at 22:07
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Sailingfree, How did you fit what you Call the the reefing horns ? Do you have a sparcraft or seldom boom, a picture perhaps? Peter ------------- Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241 |
Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 13 June 2016 at 18:00
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Hi There is a post that might help - it got drawings: http://myhanse.com/reefing-system-312_topic9417_page1.html" rel="nofollow - http://myhanse.com/reefing-system-312_topic9417_page1.html /H8jer ------------- Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin |
Posted By: sailingfree
Date Posted: 21 June 2016 at 02:55
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Hi Peter, sorry I'm away at the moment. I'll dig out the details when I get back. Pete |
Posted By: sailingfree
Date Posted: 21 June 2016 at 05:38
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Hi Peter, I've found the details hidden away in some old emails. My boom is a sparcraft part, F125 section (80x110 mm). Here is a link to the Sparcraft spec sheet: http://www.sparcraft-us.com/us/technical_support/technical_brochures/ocean_range/fichiers/gooseneck.pdf I've uploaded the pdf file here for you uploads/1177/gooseneck.pdf" rel="nofollow - uploads/1177/gooseneck.pdf I bought the goosneck spindle part number 34561771384 from a company called sailspar: THE OLD MARCONI WORKS HILLIARDS ROAD GREAT BROMLEY COLCHESTER CO7 7US VAT Reg. No. 103 5842 95 Telephone 01206 251348 I think it was about 30 pounds. Hope that helps. |
Posted By: Rock
Date Posted: 09 November 2016 at 12:25
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Thanks Pete, I am also planning to step away from my single line reefing system. The advantage of being able to reef from the cockpit is often negated by having to go to the mast anyway to ‘fix’ the reefing line when it gets snagged or pinched somewhere. Also, I have a hard time tightening the bottom of the sail, and the blocks at the reefing cringle get damaged because the main halyard stretches, and the blocks end up against the gooseneck. The reefing system at my previous boats, with reefing hooks at the gooseneck worked well, the hooks fix the tack and the reef line fixes the clew and tightens the bottom. And much less line to be hauled in when using reefing hooks. I can order a new Sparcraft gooseneck bolt (for 120 Euro’s, which sounds expensive compared to your 30 GBP) with reefing hooks to replace the current one without. But I’ll have to change the sheave set up. Current setup leads the reefing line up at the gooseneck, and then down again from the reefing cringle. A set up with hooks requires the reefing lines to be lead downwards towards the mast foot, then to the cockpit. Means I’ll have to change the position of the pin/shaft that the sheaves are on. My question is: how do I remove the current shaft. Is that a matter of carefully tapping it out of the gooseneck assembly with a rubber mallet? Can I used the same shaft and put it back in the new (existing) hole in the gooseneck assembly? Has anybody done this previously? Thanks for input. Peter. ------------- Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241 |
Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 21 December 2016 at 18:15
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Hi everybody, I find quite hard to reef with my single line reefing , 2 reefs, ...is it normal due to the high friction or the carriages inside the boom should move easily? ------------- Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20 |
Posted By: charentebob
Date Posted: 21 December 2016 at 20:09
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Check that all the sheaves rotate easily & maybe use Dyneema of a smaller diameter. Roller bearing blocks help as well. I have all the problems previously mentioned but there is no magic. Every solution has it's disadvantage. Nigel
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Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 22 December 2016 at 08:44
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Hi Captain Bob and other reefing line inovators: Since I bought my 301 one year ago, I have tried various changes to the reefing systems. I now have some benefit of expierience with her systems. I have fitted new sheaves in mast, Dyneema halyards main 8mm, foresail and spin 6mm, this cures the friction problems raising sail. The reefing lines are now 6mm Dyneema, 1st and second reefs are fitted for one line reefing, third reef is a two line system, all brought back to cockpit. If I did it again I would go to 5mm reefing lines, and Antal [or similar] low friction rings instead of blocks on luff of main. I have found the crucial step for easy reefing is to mark the main halyard and deck with alignment marks where it should be dropped too for each of the three reefs. This ensures smooth reefing as the blocks on the luff and rings on mast are best aligned for free running of the reef lines. We plan to sail 301 yacht 'Bloto' round GB next year, that will be a good test of the systems? ------------- Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 22 December 2016 at 10:08
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Hi, I am facing the same issues. It is because of the friction at the mast-located end of the boom.  The reefing lines are undergoing a high friction: - where they are running through the boom - where they are interfering with the lock of the main sheet shakel. quick solutition: In my eperience the reefing it no a big issue, just to unreef. Therefore I am going to the mast and pull the reefing lines in advance (open stoppers!). better: replacing the metal shakel by a soft one and the lines by Dyneema one (check the dimension, you can use in your stoppers). Best Martin |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 22 December 2016 at 19:17
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Martin Your picture intrigues me. Unfortunately it only shows part of the gooseneck & part of what looks like a large knot at the gooseneck. You should not have any knot whatsoever at that point so something may well be rigged incorrectly. my single line reefing works very easily with none of the problems others have suggested. Can you show a larger picture at the gooseneck so we can get a better idea of what is happening? ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 22 December 2016 at 19:25
Some manufacturers show carriages inside the boom. In my opinion they are unnecessary, They cannot be easily repaired at sea if a problem arises, they create friction. They do not give a mechanical advantage - i have proven this by making a mock up on my bench with spring scales to check forces when we had an argument on the forum a couple of years ago. Take the blocks out of the mast & run the lines straight through. Properly set up the Hanse system works very well & is fast to operate & gives excellent sail set. ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 23 December 2016 at 08:09
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Hi Mjo, I see your problem, try removing the shackle, and fit a about 4 turns of 3mm cord to retain the tack of the main sail. Set the distance between the goose neck and tack longer than your photo shows, about 75mm? Then there will be clearance for the reef lines to run. I will post photo of my setup after my visit to Bloto later today. Also your reefing lines are just too thick go for 5mm dyneema, you will be amazed at how much this reduces friction. regards Perry ------------- Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
Posted By: JesperB
Date Posted: 23 December 2016 at 09:18
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I would suggest to make a modified single
line reef system where you reduce the purchase on the luff from 2:1 to 1:1. To
do this you need (for each reef): 2 lines, one double block + one extra block in the mast end of
the boom. With this set up you get 33% less line in cockpit (still 50% more
than with the standard "hook" solution) and you will be able to make
the fine tuning much better. Combine this with marks on the halyard on the
correct position for reefs 1 2 (and 3). When taking the reef, just drop the
halyard to the pre-marked position and the tighten up the reef-line. I have made
this modification on a 32 footer and also on a Hanse 371. Works very well!
se appended picture. Note! You need to plan how you position the double blocks so they don't interfere (reaf 1 and 2) and that you have enough traveling distance inside the boom. The boom lengt needs to be min the height of reef point to get this system working (so probably the 3rd reef might need another solution like the one with a hook). ------------- Jesper |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 23 December 2016 at 11:28
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With the in boom system proposed the 1:2 inside the boom to the clew increases the load one has to apply to get the clew down. This effectively negates the 2:1 pull on the leech one has outside & above the boom to the leech. The pull on the luff is reduces from 2:1 to 1:1. This means you have to pull harder to tighten the luff in addition any problems inside the boom or any need to change the reef lines means one has to remove the boom fitting from one end of the boom. If there is not dedicated slider inside the boom any twist in the line will possibly let the pulley rotate & cause more friction With the greatest of respect If the OP is having reefing problems then I would suggest that that system will only make things worse ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: Bitbaltic
Date Posted: 24 December 2016 at 21:50
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As Sam says, a 301 certainly does not benefit from any apparatus inside the boom in my experience. When I removed the blocks that were inside my Z-spars boom they were all twisted around each other creating a snakes' wedding of friction. Thin dyneema reefing lines more than cancel out any mechanical advantage that would be obtained from a block system. ------------- Hanse 301 'Karisma' | https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/" rel="nofollow - https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/ |
Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 09:06
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Hi, yesterday I checked the boom (Sparcraft)..it has no inside carriages. Sheaves at both sides are turning ok, so the problem are the 8mm lines which cause too much friction. 5 or 6 mm dynema is the best then? is it handled easily on the ST Lewmar winches? ------------- Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20 |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 09:40
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Sam, thanks for interest :-) Unfortunately the knot may irrititate... it is the top end of the reef2 line, which is usually fixed to the equivalent tack in the main sheet. There is another pic I have made before dismantling for winter.. FYI I have single reef lines for R1 (blue) and R2 (red) plus a jiffy reef for R3.  |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 09:57
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Hi Perry, thanks - that's what I am intending... maybe I will create a matching soft shackle, because this cheap shackle (Selden standard  equipped) is quite sharp-edged and ruins the triangle plate of the goose neck.I'd really appreciate your photo, becuase I am afraid to put the tack too much away from the mast. Dyneema is a good idea, I will check, what diameter the stoppers are able to grabb properly. As you see on the pic, they are also working with the thin spinnaker Do you have the same halyard stoppers working well with Dyneema? Are you using plain Dyneema or a mantled version? Thanks in advance Martin  |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 10:06
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Martin I am trying to visualise what you have. looking at the red & white line it seems to be coming out of the top of the boom & then laying down onto the deck. Where would the end normally go? the picture also seems to show a red & white line exiting the bottom of the boom. is this the same line & does it come straight from the line on the top or does it go somewhere else first? I cannot see any mast aligners which are loops fitted opposite the gooseneck on the mast to hold the line next to the mast . Do you have any? Where does your clew outhaul run to adjust tension on the mainsail clew for ordinary sail adjustment. Do you have one or do you just tension the sail from the boom end & leave it set as one adjustment? ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 10:42
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Sam, the 2 lines are usually connected to the single line R1 and R2 reef cringles at the luff of the main sheet. On the top of the boom: - at the goose neck they are exiting to the luff and (starboard = blue = R1) - on the stern end the lines are exiting to the leach of the main sheet (port side = red = R2) On the bottom the blue and red line are exiting to blocks at the mast foot --> deck organizers --> cockpit stoppers. It is a single line system as jesper had drawn it. My clew outhaul is first a wire. Inside the boom I think it is connected to a textile line and is exiting on the bottom side at the goose neck --> mast foot block --> deck organizer --> cockpit. I regularly attach the tension... I put some pics...    |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 17:21
 I am not sure that you have it set up correctly. Apologies if you have. I am too computer illiterate to post neat drawings on the forum as I cannot work out how to do them with windows 10. So I did a sketch by hand & photographed it. Not sure if it will work. Once again apologies if I do a bad job. i went to the boat today & took a picture of a mast aligner & can post that if you do not know what I mean. It occurs to me that some may get tangles because they release all the halyard at once. The process is to release the mainsheet & the vang so that the boom can ride up. Head to wind. Then release only small amounts of halyard at a time whilst winding in the reefing line. I take the halyard one turn round the winch & only part let off the jammer so that as I winch with the other hand I let off small amounts of halyard. I know many mark the halyard but I found it better to put a piece of tape on the mast at the point where the lowest batten will end up so as it comes down I can guess where to stop letting off halyard. Also I do not have to look down at the halyard for a small mark but can be looking up at the mast at what I am doing. It helps not to have halyards with lots of stretch as well. The sail needs to stop just before the reef block on the luff touches the mast aligner, which is the important point rather than where the end of the halyard is on the cabin winch. Winch as much clew as possible in before the very last bit of halyard then finally tighten down the halyard for a nice set If you do not have a mast aligner then you can pop rivet a hoop onto the mast with a stainless steel ring hung through it. Then run the reefing line through that. Do not try to run through an ordinary loop as it will create too much friction My current main has a ball bearing 65mm block on the luff but when my new main arrives (in the next few weeks - yippee !! ) I will probably just fit friction rings------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 18:17
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for me it's a bit different. Single line means, to get one stage of a reef by pulling 1 line (and of course to relief the main sheet halyard). So when you pull the red line from the cockpit, you will pull the luff down too the boom and as well the car wih the 2 blocks towards the mast. It works like a pulley and pulls through the green line line the leach down also. In that way you distribute you power to both tacks directly. Apoligize my lousy English and lousy sketch   |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 18:53
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You have lost the 2:1 advantage of the loops at the luff & leech by & created friction inside the boom with the pulleys that provide no mechanical advantage whatsoever. Your reef lines are also a little oversize. Change to the sketch i have shown - which is the setup supplied by Hanse- & you should have no further problems ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 19:45
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... thanks for your comment, Sam. It was made in that way, when I took over the 301 this year. I think, I will keep the general setup, but: - replacing the 10 mm lines by 8mm with Dyneema core (friction, when they are running through the boom - replacing the metal shackle by a soft one The main issue was not the tension I needed to reef (with the winch it works) - main issue the blocking shackle when I needed to unreef (correct in English?). Have a nice evening ! |
Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 28 December 2016 at 10:21
------------- Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20 |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 28 December 2016 at 12:20
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Mine are 7mm& 8mm ( one is different because it cut on the aligner when I overtightened it one day & had to be changed) braid on braid. I did not want dynema as I prefer a little "give" in the lines. Unlike the halyards ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 28 December 2016 at 13:08
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Sorry Martin, I have been too ill for the last days to go outside let along out on the river. I am getting better and will do the photos soon. I am particularly frustrated because I have a new main sheet traveller system all ready to install and I just cant get out there. We had planned a Christmas eve, and a christmas day lunch on Bloto, but had to give up the plan due to the gales and my health. Perry ------------- Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
Posted By: Martin&Rene
Date Posted: 29 December 2016 at 15:49
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mjo In your sketch you show the end the line going from the back of the boom up to the reefing point and finishing there. If that is the case,, then by the time you are pulling in the second reef, you are pulling on a reefing cringle which is nearly a metre from the back of the boom to just a line at the back of the boom. I do not see how this tensions the leech of the sail. The line should go from the pulley up to the reefing cringle and then back to be tied around the boom (if the mainsail is loose footed), or tied of to a slider in the track on the underside of the boom. In this way , the reefing point is being pulled both downwards and out to the end of the boom. This is the way Samuel has drawn it and I use the same system. ------------- Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland |
Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 29 December 2016 at 16:47
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Mj Your sketch is the very good Selden singleline reefing systeem with a car running back- and frontwards inside the Selden boom. The only thing wrong is the leechline have to go tru the cringle and back down ,tied on the boom by a knot or on a slider in the rail on the underside of the boom. So Martin have it right. If this give to much friction you can ask your sailmaker to at a smal reefingblock on the leech of your sail and lead the reefline tru this block. This is the way they do it on bigger boats(sails) ------------- Wild and Wet Belgium 545e#268 |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 29 December 2016 at 18:10
As I understand it the Seldon system has a track for each pair of cars. this keeps them apart & stops them twisting or clashing together. Without this they can twist & tangle as pointed out in an earlier post ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 29 December 2016 at 19:22
 ------------- Wild and Wet Belgium 545e#268 |
Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 29 December 2016 at 19:24
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yes you are right Sam ------------- Wild and Wet Belgium 545e#268 |
Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 30 December 2016 at 10:18
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Hi again, I was thinking about having a third reef..besides the obvious sail maker adjustment on the sail itself, what is your solution if no horns are at the boom fore end and no cleats on the boom? it would be nice to see pictures of how your main looks like. ------------- Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20 |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 30 December 2016 at 11:43
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On my sail I have 2 rings joined by webbing forming "spectacles" at each reef point. This is so I can fit a block on one side or the other. For the third reef the lines would be too long. My solution is to use a strop with snap shackles each end that goes around the mast. Fortunately the spinnaker ring is at dead the right height. This strop passes under the spinnaker ring to stop it riding up & the snap shackles fix to the 2 rings each side of the sail. (If I did not have rings I would use 2 shackles with a line between them set to the required length). With this set up at the luff I can have the length at the correct set to accommodate the amount of sail that bunches up at the gooseneck. It would be awkward to hook to horns even if I had them. For the clew I have a strop that passes under the boom & just lays in the sail cover most of the time. It has a loop each end. When I want to use it I pass one end through the sail & the other end through the other loop so that it then tensions the clew down as the end is pulled towards the boom end. I have a dedicated line to attach to this which goes back to the winch on the cabin top but I can use the clew outhaul if I need to as that also has a snap shackle where it fixes to the sail & is long enough. the beauty of this system is that it backs up the single line system. i can fix the strop to the first or second reef points in an emergency & the strop at the boom end can be moved to the leech for the first or second reef in a couple of minutes. i have to lower the sail to catch the boom end to do this but apart from going forward to fit the strop around the mast the rest is done in the cockpit Finally, the strop at the mast end is always hanging on the spinnaker ring because in rough weather I can slip one hand through it so it goes around my wrist so I can hold on if a big wave hits. At my age I am far from agile & even when I have a crew I notice they tend to grab it as well. ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: Martin&Rene
Date Posted: 30 December 2016 at 13:36
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Mjo To reduce friction at the leech reefing points, I have fitted Harken Carbo Air 40mm blocks. These are very light blocks. I made up the little strop as directed by the Harken leaflet, and then have secured the block directly to the leech cringle with a small loop of Dyneema. This method did not require a trip to the sailmakers. ------------- Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 30 December 2016 at 15:12
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This is a picture of the strap I use at the luff for the third reef. (here I am only using it to hold on to the boat). One end of the spectacles can just be seen hanging down in the top right of the picture  This is a picture of the strap for the leech, the knot in it stops it dropping back out of the sail bag when not in use & keeps it in the right position when in use so that the rope tightens properly The red & white line is the one going back to the winch As it is tightened the blue strop tensions & pulls the leech down 
------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 02 January 2017 at 14:58
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...thanks, sam. It is one of the wintner projects now :-) |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 02 January 2017 at 15:01
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Dear Martin&Rene, thanks for the idea ith the block. Do you have the lines permanently fixed to the sheet, or just oin the reefing situation? |
Posted By: Martin&Rene
Date Posted: 02 January 2017 at 16:32
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MJO 1st and 2nd reefing lines are permanently set up as the blocks are so light I do not feel they mess the leech up. I have just added a block on to the 3rd reefing line and this is threaded up on the reefing line, but the block can be attached/detached from the leech reefing cringle using a long soft shaft that I made up. The reason for not having the 3rd reef permanently set up is that there is so much rope in the cockpit when you start to drop the sail. The block and the 3rd reefing line just sit in the stack pack if they are not attached to the mainsail. ------------- Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland |
Posted By: mjo
Date Posted: 02 January 2017 at 16:40
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thanks... for ther 3rd I do it in the "classic" way: the luff tack to the hook at the goose neck, the other just with a strop. How have your put the line through he lazy bag, if you have one? |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 02 January 2017 at 16:48
Slots cut in the correct position as you would for the 1st & 2nd reefs ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 02 January 2017 at 18:20
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Thanks Samuel for your pictures..I understand the red/white line goes back to stern boom tip, then internally to boom/mast and back to cockpit as other reefing single lines do? I have no ring for spinnaker but I just might attach a line like yours around the boom near the mast joining. happy new year to all of you! ------------- Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20 |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 02 January 2017 at 19:58
It may work if you make a much longer strop, pass it behind the mast below the boom to the front of the mast. Cross it over then take the 2 ends up to pick up the sail. This way it will stop the sail pulling back as you tighten the leech. I am lucky that my sailmaker has positioned the spectacles correctly & that the spinnaker ring is there in the right place. ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |