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Toilets

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boomjack View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boomjack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 October 2020 at 09:58
Hi Ducan,

I don t remember the old Jabsco designation, but the were the ones installed when I got my Hanse #080 in may 2014.
Front and rear.

All the best
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Wayne's World View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wayne's World Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 October 2020 at 14:11
Dincan,

The Jabsco Lite Flush 58500 was the model Hanse fitted for our 2014 575.
Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Caribbean and will head across the Pacific early 2023
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Pzucchel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pzucchel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 October 2020 at 18:31
588#55 has jabsco deluxe.... End 2017...mine are not used much. Apart from the stern one being slightly more smelly, nothing to report fwiw... 
Hanse588#55
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Richard M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 October 2020 at 11:25
Hello Duncan

I don't have your size of boat - but I do have 2 heads. The forward head is electric - and its been absolutely trouble free since it was installed in 2016. The toilet itself is relatively quiet - the most noise comes from the water pump. It is a Sanimarin 32 - sanimarin.com. It was recommended by Inspiration Marine (UK dealer) as being the most reliable in their experience. A key piece of advice I received was to close the lid after use - and especially if there is a risk of (long) hair being brushed near it. I chose sea water to flush as my fresh water tankage is only 450 litres.

I kept the aft heads manual with the standard Jabsco unit "just in case".

On both units I have installed the Seasmart treatment system - seasmartmarine.co.uk. This has worked well on both toilets.

Good luck!
Richard M

(S/Y BrightStar - H 455 #90; ex S/Y Providence - H 400e #290)
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Gale Force View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gale Force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 November 2020 at 06:28
Many thanks to all who replied.I have decided to to go with the Tecmavthat they recommend for the 575

Cheers

Duncan
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Gale Force View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gale Force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2020 at 05:04
Dear All

Now that I have decided which head to go for 'Tecma Compass' .I wonder if anyone has the answers to a few questions.

Where are the raw water inlet pumps located?

Can they be changed without hauling the boat out?

Should I be thinking about using fresh water and a solenoid valve?

Is it an easy conversion as I have a sea water system at the moment?

Any info would be very much appreciated

Cheers

Duncan
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marcopone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marcopone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2020 at 09:17
hi,

Tecma are very good.
In my case I installed the low version for the fore toilet.
There is enough space below for the pump/macerator. 
On the aft toilet (right side) you need the standard height version. The pump/macerator stay completely inside.
The final seating height though is quite high but no so annoying.

About the flush water : the toilet come with no pumps.
If you use the fresh water from tank the included solenoid valve is all what you need.

To use sea water you would need to install a dedicated pump.

If you have the water maker fresh water is the best choice.

I will post some pictures if I find them.

Marco
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Black Diamond View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black Diamond Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2020 at 10:50
I cannot speak for the "Compass",  but the "Easyfit" TECMA (what I installed) was self-contained.  The pump /macerator and all the components were in the unit and it just sat in place of the old head unit.  I was replacing the standard manual units from the factory.   I didn't like the "salt water electric" option which was my only other choice at the time.

The salt water intake for the aft head (on my 575 is under the sole to the starboard of the companion way steps.     In other words, right in front of the starboard head (on my boat).    I know this because when I converted the heads from salt-water to fresh water I re-purposed that salt water intake to feed my watermaker.    All were pretty well labeled as I recall.

The salt water intake for the forward head is to the port side of the master cabin under the sole.  In our boat,  the forward sea water intake for the AC unit is also in this area.      I ended up closing this off after converting to fresh water.   

The toughest part of swapping the raw water heads for fresh water heads is:

1.  Feeding the 12V line there and putting a breaker at the panel.    You already have this (it seems) but I had to run it and put a blue sea breaker above my battery on-switches to power the two heads.

2.  Running the fresh water line from the sink in the head to the head. This is easy because fresh water is already there.  You just make a connection and it runs 6 more feet.     There is no need for another pump because its participating in the boats pressure water system.

3.  Understanding water usage.     I put in a 38gph watermaker at the same time as our 575 has a washer/dryer, dishwasher, and (now) fresh water heads.    With Tecma, the head uses quite a bit of water,  but you can also use the "dry flush" option which simply empties the bowl without filling it (twice) with fresh water.    It took us a while, but we now feel we understand the system well.

Hope this helps!




Edited by Black Diamond - 10 November 2020 at 10:52
Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI
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marcopone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marcopone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2020 at 11:36
1. for the electrical part it was not necessary to make this modification. although I have a very bad opinion of Hanse’s electrical system, first of all it is absurdely 12 volts instead of 24V, I have to say that it has plenty of spare end empty points where to connect new electric devices.
About the toilets who have a significant draw, the right place is on the green board down and right to chart table.
There are places for small draw with the blu/grey connector and places for bigger draw with screw and bolts connection.
You can connect there and add the right size fuse.

but I understand it is too late for this..!

Marco
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Black Diamond View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black Diamond Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2020 at 12:41
I put in the blue sea panel. because I share your opinion of the HANSE electrical system and did not want any more dependency on it.     I really don't trust the WURTH panel and most of the electrical control points.   The base wiring is fine,  its just done really, really, badly at the Hanse board as well as the WURTH panel.   Its probably the worst German engineering I have ever seen.  Marine or otherwise. 

For example, the autohelm has a 50AMP fuse for the computer/control unit in the cockpit locker, but its fed by a 15AMP fuse (by default)) from the WURTH panel (Hanse design).   When is that ever going to pop?!  I found out in a heavy following sea when the automhelm stopped working.    It tried to draw more power and the WURTH panel fuse blew when it was trying to draw more than 15amps.    I got the factory to approve a change to a 25AMP fuse but its still a risk point in heavy weather.   The 50AMP fuse will never blow unless I re-route the. power.   Same for other things fed by the panel. 



Edited by Black Diamond - 10 November 2020 at 12:44
Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI
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