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Water in bilge (2007 315) |
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Roaboat ![]() Lieutenant ![]() Joined: 11 October 2017 Location: Cumbria Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Thanks Samuel. Like the talc idea - I had not thought of that. It is not after the fresh water pump, I had a previous leak from the aft deck shower and had the pump working at intervals. I will check the engine and exhast hoses but it does not happen when just motoring. I tend to winter flush the engine thru the sea water strainer rather than disconnecting hoses. The stringers are causing a lot of the difficulty in identifying the source of the water, it gets trapped in there and slowly seeps out as the boat moves.
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2007 Hanse 315 'Lyra' based in Cumbria, UK
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davehart292 ![]() Sub Lieutenant ![]() Joined: 18 November 2017 Location: australia Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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We are the 3rd owner of a 2007 Hanse 370e ('Hansel'). She has been dry however now we have a new leak. I suspect deck/hull bonding deterioration. Our boat had a fillet of sikaflex between toerail and hull which covered deck/hull interface. This is now totally degraded, likely UV, exposing the join. My question is - is that fillet sealer normal or some previous attempt to stop leaks, and might this be the cause of our leak? I appreciate previous comments self tapers and cleat Bolts, and will investigate further. We suspect midship and in rough weather when water on deck.
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Arcadia ![]() Rear Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 27 November 2017 Location: Sag Harbor, USA Status: Offline Points: 586 |
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The hull to deck joint is bonded with polyester paste quite thoroughly via the wide lap joint between the two, and not likely to leak The Sikaflex you see is by Hanse and just finishes the seam on the exterior. I would look elsewhere.
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Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY |
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Roaboat ![]() Lieutenant ![]() Joined: 11 October 2017 Location: Cumbria Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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I am still struggling with the water ingress issue. The hull deck bond is a good 2- 3 inches wide and I sealed all the gap between the toe rail and Hull with sealant. It has had no effect on the problem. The transom join is totally dry. I have shut every seacock yet still get water in. Keel bolts are dry where I can get to them. I guess there may be more bolts under the galley sink floor but cannot get that panel up with the galley in place. Are there more bolts under there on a 2007 315?
I am all out of ideas on where to look next.
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2007 Hanse 315 'Lyra' based in Cumbria, UK
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pdc78 ![]() Commander ![]() ![]() Joined: 27 May 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 126 |
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Have you fixed the well know calorifier PRV bleed? That is a very well documented cause of bilge water and there are many relatively easy solutions - use all date search.
Good luck, Paul
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H345 #269
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Roaboat ![]() Lieutenant ![]() Joined: 11 October 2017 Location: Cumbria Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Would a calorifier put salt water in the bilge?
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2007 Hanse 315 'Lyra' based in Cumbria, UK
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Martin&Rene ![]() Vice Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 805 |
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As others have said, if there is only a small amount of water, it is difficult to tell whether it is fresh or salt because of contamination. The only salt water source not mentioned already is the drain from the anti-syphon valve of the seawater cooling water. This small drain pipe should drain into the sump under the engine, but when I first bought my yacht it had been dislodged and some of the water could drain into the bilge.
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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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