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Windless Solenoid issue - loud clicking - HELP!

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mattplowman View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 December 2020 at 19:32
Well Murphy’s law has struck me with full force! Delivered the boat to the bay of islands 2 weeks ago and windless working perfectly (although on last pull up did give it heavy use but nothing tripped , all was fine) left on Marina with shore power for 2 weeks , jumped on boat with the family for our 3 week cruise , got to first bay and nothing but a loud clicking from
Solenoid.

Breaker not tripped
Happens both up and down and now remote and cockpit button
Battery at full charge and is near new
Meter shows 12.5 volts at solenoid
Lewmar 1000 install
No other fuses blown 

Am trying to be zen about it but the timing could not be worse!

Am hoping that there is an easy fix or else my arms are going to get big amd we are going to be anchoring in as shallow water as we can find! 

Thanks in advance 
Matt 

H355 , #47
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 December 2020 at 21:55
Your windlass is drawing about (900Watt/12,5Volt) = 70Ampere
If your engine is not started, your 12,5 Volts will drop to 11 Volts when the windlass draws power.
Then the clicking will start.
Use your multimeter when the windlass is working.
If you had the engine started when anchoring, this advice is evidently of no use.
On my Lewmar 1000 there is a 3A fuse to the switches, located beside the solenoid.
If this fuse is melted, the switches will not work, and there should be no clicking either.

Solenoid clicking occurs when the supplier is unable to deliver the power needed to run the device.

I assume that my sailing area is a bit closer to the North Pole than yours, we have 3 degrees celsius here.

P.S. There may be another solution. If your boat is equipped with a Stromat (use the search function), then the gizmo will use the current from the generator to charge the engine battery first, and only when the engine battery reach 13,8 Volts, will the relays close, and charging of the other battery groups will start.
The morale is: Engine battery is important in an emergency, windlass and stereo come second.
This is one of the search results:
A post from an Australian (like you?) who had a problem with the Stromat 19 days ago!
This is the manual with a troubleshooting section:


Edited by Captain Cook - 30 December 2020 at 22:40
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M802(SSB)
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mattplowman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattplowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 December 2020 at 08:19
Thanks for the reply , engine is always on when I use windless , had thought was volt issue but had engine at 2000 rpm and still same issue. Have also tried over last few days after a hour or two of motoring , same result which makes sense as house battery is brand new and showing full charge.engine starts first time so no issues with battery.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 December 2020 at 10:06
If the troubleshooting procedure fails to solve your problem, here is a suggestion:
If the 3A fuse is defective, it may pass enough current to make the solenoid click, but when a larger draw of current occurs, it fails.
Change the 3A fuse, it may be the problem.
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M802(SSB)
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Wild View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 December 2020 at 10:56
did you check there is power on de windlass motor when solenoid is closed?
If not
1) check big fuse windlass 
2) check all connections from this fuse to the electric windlass engine.
3) open solenoid and check for bad contact on the contact barr to the windlass electric motor

If yes
Open windlass and check brushes,dirt ,Carbon dust etc
Wild and Wet
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Brufan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brufan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 December 2020 at 11:19
If these troubleshooting techniques fail then check power cables.
First, check windlass without any load.  If it runs it means there's a huge voltage drop when a lot of power is drained.
Second, check connections between power cables from batteries bank to windlass cables (10 mm2).  They are located in the fore peak.  There's a lot of moisture there and this could lead to an oxidize connection.
Reading the H355 diagrams shows that power cables to windlass are only 16 mm2.
This is a bit on the weak side especially when cables age (oxidize).  This could lead to a voltage drop when the windlass draws power.
I've retrofitted the same windlass but used 35 mm2 thinned copper cables.  No problem so far.
Hope this helps

Bruno

hanse 355 - 57

S/Y Spicy Ginger

White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system (modifications done now), Simrad-Jefa autopilot.
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mattplowman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattplowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2021 at 22:28
Thank you all for your replies , I did the electrical trouble shooting suggested and came to conclusion it was the motor , we ended up spending a day in opua marina and I got the marine electrician down to have a look. The brushes needed replacing.if you are ever in the bay of islands in NZ and have an issue then I can highly recommend Rob Walley of Opua Marine electronics, he stripped the windless , removed the motor , got the parts delivered within a day and reinstalled all within 1.5 days (just enough time for us to visit a vineyard!) ,the rest of the trip saw us with a working windless.


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