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Zink Anode?

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holby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2012 at 14:32
Charles, congrats for your promotion, that's another round of drinks for you to buy in bonnie Scotland.
Dave
Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2012 at 17:36
Oh!!!
So am I
Does that give us the right buy a " my hanse flag with gold braid on it?
 
On second thoughts - better not - Holby will be flogging em every 5 minutes somebody hits the magic figures
 
We would all have to stop contributing at 499 posts
I suppose we could change our names & start again
That would fool him!!!
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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skipper View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2012 at 20:11
I continue with the subject zink anode
 
I wonder what the "hull zink anode" is supposed to protect if it is located on its own on the middle of the hull, what is close to it to be protected?
 
"Zinc anodes lose effectiveness with distance from the part being protected. A zinc should be located either directly on the protected metal fitting itself, or as close as is possible. A common rule of thumb is that there is zero protection at a distance of 50' and a continuous decline in protection up to that point."
I have read at other web pages that the distance should even be closer to give protection.
 
Could it be another mistake by Hanse to put a hull zink anode?
(In line with bonding in common and especially on the ruddershaft which Jefa is strongly against.)


Edited by skipper - 23 March 2012 at 20:18
Cheers,
Skipper
Former owner of Hanse 342 2005 (Sparcraft mast, white hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, short rudder)
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Wild View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2012 at 22:36
Skipper,
It is very simple, if the anode offers more material than the other metal parts in the bounding system, the system works.if you read the jefa guidelines very well you will find it there! We are located in the Med so a very bad location for elect corrosion and our hull anode have to be replaced everything 2 years, no corrosion at all on the keel, ruddershaft etc.

Edited by Wild - 23 March 2012 at 22:58
Wild and Wet
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Gordon Harrison View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gordon Harrison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 March 2012 at 07:40
On ou 2009 320 this anode is a Vetus zinc 15
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Impuls View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Impuls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 April 2012 at 13:02

I have a 320 bulid umber 440 - very close to yours Henrik.

I have 3 anodes - on starboard side approx 2 meter forward from the aft of the boat, one anode ring on the Yanmar sail drive. Further I have one anode mounted "on top" of the propeller. I have a 3 blade folding prop in bronze mounted by WR and this anode is not necessarily standard - as the original propeller is in a hardened plastic - hence no need for anode on this propeller.

All 3 needs replacement after 2 seasons in water. Speaking to the local dealer the anode on top of the propeller does not come as a spare proposal in the catalogue - so I presume Wendel and Rados as  added this when the fitted the new propeller


Impuls
hanse 320#440
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Joachim View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joachim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2013 at 08:08
Hi Henrik, I need to change my hull anode (ZINK 15C) which is for grounding. I have had my Hanse 375 for 4 years now and this anode is starting to get eaten. I know as long as it is more than 50% left it is probably ok (which means it could last another season), however I would like to change it now. 
I searched around and your dialog on myhanse forum popped up. My hull anode is the same as on your picture. Where you able to change yours? I have unscrewed the two nuts but the anode doesn't come off. Am I missing something, or do I just need to use a hammer or something to knock it loose?
Your help is much appreicated.

Joachim
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Wild View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2013 at 16:22
The is glow with sikaflex so use a big screwdriver and a hammer to take it off?
Wild and Wet
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Joachim View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joachim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2013 at 17:01
Does this mean there will be a leakage around the bolts if i dont use zika when i put the new one on? i would assume the bolts are built into the boat from the beginning to make sure no leakage can happen. Use of zika on the hull below the water line seems risky.
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2013 at 17:48
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Edited by samuel - 28 May 2013 at 17:55
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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