411 hints and tips

Our purchase of Freya has exceeded our expectations. She is fast, exceedingly comfortable and stunning to the eye. After 4 months of ownership we have drawn up following  observations to make her even better:

1.Two mast steps about two feet from deck level at the mast so the main halyard can be attached without risking life and limb,

2.Always take the topping lift forward as it has a habit of fouling in the backstay turning block eight feet above the steering position, usually at the worst possible time,

3.A flap of canvas over the long zip over the boom cover to protect in from our fierce Aussie sun

4.Rails in stern lockers to stop ropes/fenders disappearing into the abyss,

5.as the mainsail batten pockets can foul the backstay in light winds during tacking, Norths have adjusted the pocket ends to allow clearance,

6.does anyone know exact tankage specs? Fuel seems to be 90 litres and water 200 litres?,

7.the retaining device on stern ladder, while clever, is dangerous especially for children,

8.two more turning blocks added to mast base as no cunningham possible if two spinnaker halyards are carried,

9.the spinnaker halyard collar device at the hounds looks overly abrasive

10. why twin headfoil as standard but only one genoa sheave in mast ????? New owners beware!

11.anchor locker is close to bow making it hard to carry anchor on the bow unless the shank is very short. A 35lb manson from New Zealand fits nicely with  minimal alteration to the anchor locker hatch.

12.Mysterious water leak to bilge reported by two boats not yet solved,

13.Fridge basket is too big to remove once full , a shorter basket would be better.

14.Electrics could do with a restraining arm to limit fall on openning.

15.North sails are overly deep but local Norths readily make adjustments

16. We have strengthened boom cover lazy jack attachment points which are flimsy especially at the forward end.

17.Watch for first reef block which can be damaged if halyard lowered too far as the block abrases the boom as pressure is wound on.

18.Lazy jacks need cleats on the mast each side to allow securing (new Spinlock PX 0308/1 cleat is excellent.

19.Standard battery instrument guage is too small and imprecise. There is some excellent technology available which should be standard.

20.The gas locker is too small (especially after silly Aussie fittings are attached to the lines in place of the excellent German ones!)

21. The fridge is below expectations and seems to have insulation issues.

22.An angled shelf high in the anchor locker to take a windlass is a winner but get the angles right. Don't forget a drain hole.

23.Spinnaker kit ex factory excluded winches.

Happy sailing! The list of positives is much longer than the above.

 

 

Edited by freya

Hi,

The fridge basket should be 2/3rds size so it can move back and forward. We might get an aluminium one made as i cant find the right size in plastic.

Yes I keep my spinn halyards back too.

My German batteries are awesome; I will come back with the brand name. Thanks for your reply; I have added two new points to the list above. what is your boat name?

Chris    Sydney  Australia

"Swoose" is number 102 located USA. I have found some new things about the  boat. Best news is that it would appear to me that the hull speeed of my boat with the shallow keel is about 8.1 knots. This is not "theoretical" but practical- that is, in 18 knots of wind the bow just starts to dip at that speed and the boat lifts slightly in the aft end. I have now had the boat up to 8.6 knots on a close reach in 18knots without surfing. Quite impressive!

Other incidentals"

On my boat, the third stanchion aligns with a hole in the aluminum toe rail and is therefore not as well supported as some others. The base will flex away from the deck with a minor load. I would suggest that owners with this problem tap a 3/8" hole into the base and use a backing plate or fender washer outboard on the toe rail to provide additional support.

I have added 6 new circuit breakers to the electical box. My boat was shipped with VHF, FM radio, radar, and all electronics to ONE breaker. I found that many other breakers were doubled or tripled up. The original panel is cute, but really, for safety you do not want this.

Halyards- main halyard shackle should be replaced, mine was a tiny wichard. All lines are pretty inferior, and I will end up swapping them out.

Self tending JIb. I added a block to the jib clue and use the becket on the deck block provided. This seems to be the way the sail was designed and stress better. I found that a twing can be run to the sheet in order to better control twist.

I spent a lot of extra money getting a loose footed North Main on my boat. I like it and would recommend it to anyone else. I do not use the stack pack.

For anchoring, I find that 125' of 1/2" single braid (8-12 strand) and 100' of Hi tensile 5/16" chain works well on the windlass. The single braid has great strength, so you can go a little smaller. The QUICK windlass (12mm gypsie) provided on my boat will not work with 5/8" 3 strand. I use a small anchor- 35# cqr and this DOES fit the roller and locker- however the pointy end is very close to the gel coat on the bow and I may have to add a stainless protector. I use 20# lead sentinal on the rode to supplement holding in some conditions.

I used to work for the DUtchman and am happy to report that the geometry of the 411 lends itself to Martin's "BoomBrake".  I installed a bail just aft of the vang and led the control lines to the chain plates and then back on the starboard side- thru a becket block on the toe rail- to a secondary cockpit winch. Works great. I would recommend vectran seizings or fiber shackles on attachemnt points- as metal to metal is not a good idea.

I don't believe there is any insulation in that refrigeration box- I know it is hard to admit when you buy a new boat that some things are junk- but lets face it- it is junk and needs fixing. SImply spraying foam is a bad idea....foam loses R value almost immediately if not sealed from the air and humidity.....I hope that the first person who fixes this problem will pass his wisdom on to us.

Small item, but make sure that you attach lanyards to the access ports under the forward V berth. Hanse used rectangular ports that can fall down inside. SInce the water tank is not flush with the hull, these will end up underneath your water tank and be IMPOSSIBLE to find without removing the tank. This is the reason that man hole covers are round.

Still waiting to hear from Hanse on several issues. I hope that they  improve communications with US owners.

Happy sailing. Tom

 

 

 

Hi jon- I agree with your fabricator- a hole in the bottom will direct cold air downward. And, the box is so poorly insulated that your ice will likely melt away in no time anyway. With proper insulation you frige will use a less than 50 AH per day, and the 200AH of house batteries provided should be fine for a day sail. Current drain is about 100AH per day now- really inadaquate. I am thinking of calling in a refrigeration specialist to line the inside of the box with vacuum sealed hi-tech insulation  and glass over the job. So what if you lose a little volume...you could still hold a case of  beverages. By the way, if you want to use the fridge as an icebox, my opinion is that it would do not damage. If you put a Y valve on the shower drain (before the filter)  install a lenght of hose you can use that to suck up any water at the end of the day. Also works as a bilge pump and to suck  out that water when changing the speedo.