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Bottom rudder bearing |
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holby 
Admiral of the Fleet 
Joined: 18 February 2006 Location: Isle of Man Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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 Posted: 27 August 2019 at 15:56 |
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Thanks
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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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holby
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 18 February 2006 Location: Isle of Man Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Posted: 27 August 2019 at 15:58 |
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Cheers Gregor, will have a shufty..
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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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AlanL
Lieutenant Commander 
Joined: 17 July 2017 Location: Gosport Status: Offline Points: 64 |
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Posted: 29 March 2020 at 11:38 |
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Coming back to this as I've recently had problems with my rudder gradually seizing up over the last 2-3 years. I was told this was probably due to calcium deposition in the lower bearing. However having taken the rudder out while ashore and looked at it, it was clearly not the case. In fact I am fairly sure it was a Nylon bearing which was expanding over time. I did a temporary fix by sanding down the bearing a little and it seemed to be absolutely fine on some subsequent sailing but I will look to get the bearing replaced with a Delrin one - hopefully once the lockdown is over and I can go sailing again! I miss sailing
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Hobo
Hanse 301 GBR 2996L |
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2770 |
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Posted: 29 March 2020 at 12:05 |
Contrary to my earlier postin 2019 May i suggest that before you do, that you look at this site :- They suggest that Delrin is not good for high wear applications. I buy plastics from them & often make parts for our mooring holders. These include bushes for rudder pintles etc.Anchor rollers, plus bearings for our club's RIB safety boat trailer wheels. I have also made bearings for rollers in a belt sander running under load & 4000 RPM. In all cases I have used Oilon. I have not been told of any swelling although it is a form of nylon.( I originally thought that it might but no problems so far) Of course if Jefra now do a roller set to fit, then that is the way to go. But in any event check if Delrin is what you really want first. (I also make bearings (not from oilon though)for saildrive rope cutters, if anyone in the UK has a worn cutter that they can no longer get standard bearings for)
Edited by samuel - 01 April 2020 at 12:14 |
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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AlanL
Lieutenant Commander
Joined: 17 July 2017 Location: Gosport Status: Offline Points: 64 |
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Posted: 29 March 2020 at 15:35 |
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Thanks Samuel - I will look into this.
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Hobo
Hanse 301 GBR 2996L |
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holby
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 18 February 2006 Location: Isle of Man Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Posted: 31 March 2020 at 22:17 |
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Alan,
I did not go down the roller bearing route, I made myself a top rudder bearing out of vesconite plastic, with a built in dry lubricant... I have access to a lathe on the farm and turned out my top bearing... I will be doing the same with the bottom bearing when my 301 comes out of the water.. after the lockdown. I bought a blank tube from vesconite in South Africa and after the top one it should be enough to do the bottom one.. Your right nylon does swell, as does all plastics but vesconite plastic bearing tube swells something like, from the top of my head something like 0.0045 of mm over 45mm diameter.. It is an easy material to cut down on a lathe.. Please can you confirm you are talking about a 301, and is it a bottom bearing.. if so can you photograph it and measure it’s length and perhaps do a drawing with measurements just so I can see what it looks like.. also how you removed it.. Thank you.. This material is used for rudder bearing gor large tankers, and container ships..
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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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AlanL
Lieutenant Commander
Joined: 17 July 2017 Location: Gosport Status: Offline Points: 64 |
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Posted: 01 April 2020 at 11:28 |
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Hi Holby,
Yes it is a 301 and bottom bearing but unfortunately I can't help you with photos and drawings as in the end we did not take the bearing out, but after removing the rudder, and while the boat was held in lifting straps prior to launching, we sanded the inside of the bearing very gently in place with fine grit on a cylindrical sanding attachment for a drill. We did very little sanding and it was still a tight fit on refitting but once the rudder was back in place the difference was major with it back to fingertip smooth control rather than needing both hands and much muscle to move it! It took us about 30 mins to do and the plan was this would be a temporary fix so I could go racing the next weekend (no chance of that with the lockdown!) and I would get a new bearing sometime later in the year. Though based on the results of sailing that day I wonder if it will be needed as the rudder seems both smooth and responsive. Once we get back to sailing I will see how it goes but suspect it will be next winter before I do anything now but I will certainly share an update if we do make a change.
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Hobo
Hanse 301 GBR 2996L |
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Morgelyn3212
Sub Lieutenant 
Joined: 21 November 2017 Location: Chichester Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Posted: 01 April 2020 at 22:51 |
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Morgelyn3212
Sub Lieutenant
Joined: 21 November 2017 Location: Chichester Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Posted: 01 April 2020 at 22:55 |
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Hi All,
Top and bottom bearings. I have a drawing somewhere of the sizes. I will dig it out and post as soon as I find it. Phil
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perry
Captain 
Joined: 13 October 2015 Location: IOW Status: Offline Points: 318 |
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Posted: 02 April 2020 at 08:27 |
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Hi Holby. This is Perry 'Bloto' 301 met in Stranraer 2017 A bit of experience ? I have made plain bearings for rudder on my race quarter tonner back in 1987. I used Delrin [poly acetal], the rudder shaft was Monel 1.5" dia. Sailed hard for 25 yrs. no problems. And have made similar for a friends Fulmar. When I bought my 301 in 2016 rudder was semi seized. Sailed it for few months it only got worse. Dropped the rudder our while overnight in slings of travel hoist. Bashed out bottom bearing with hardwood drift and big hammer. The bearing was good, cleaned inside with flap wheel on drill, filed outside diameter to provide good surface for adhesive. Cleaned shaft with emery cloth mostly dirt and product of corrosion, but then the bearing fitted smoothly with about .2mm clearance. Pushed bearing back in with lots of Sikaflex 291. Fitted rudder and hung it from the top fitting. Top fitting I added some PTFE pads that take the weight of rudder [which isnt much due buoyancy] Cured adhesive overnight, re-launched next day 12:00am. Been used hard for last 3 yrs and all perfect. The original fault was combination of the original fit too tight, rubbing of the oxide film off shaft, making it tight then bearing turned in hull and the adhesive broke down and squewed the bearing. By the way to drop rudder it was so tight I had trouble forcing it down. The biggest problem removing rudder is getting top bolt out of rudder shaft. This took me a day and I had to make new top fitting. Thoughts on material:- Delrin works and bonds well. You dont need self lubricating materials as this is neither high load or high rotation speed, and water is the lubricant. Self lubricating negative is it doesnt adhesive bond as well. Old style boatyards often made the bearings tight fit so lost clearance when they hammered in bearing. I know several people who have been told it will wear in?. No it doesnt, a tight rudder is worse than a tiny bit of a rattle. Modern adhesives so good dont you never need to 'press fit' so on the 60mm aluminium jefra shaft allow generous clearance say .1-.2mm and float the bearing on sika. a little clearance it never notices when sailing, but yes sitting on mooring waggling the rudder you think it loose. Regards Perry |
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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
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AlanL wrote: