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Life of your anodes |
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Ian2019
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Joined: 04 November 2019 Location: Montenegro Status: Offline Points: 191 |
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Topic: Life of your anodesPosted: 28 April 2023 at 05:00 |
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Hi
On my H385 there are Two bow thruster anodes One split sail drive anode Two small button prop anodes One hull anode My question is "how long do your anodes last for? not how long should they last, or, how often they should be changed. I have also seen on the forum someone fit anodes to the keel is this a good idea? Cheers
Edited by Ian2019 - 28 April 2023 at 05:11 |
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H385 #317 2014 Tivat Montenegro
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S&J
Admiral
Joined: 30 August 2014 Location: Perth WA / Med Status: Offline Points: 1371 |
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Posted: 28 April 2023 at 06:40 |
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Probably depends on where you are and length of time in the water.
For my boat, in the Med 5 months in the (high salinity) water: Thruster: every 2 years Prop: every year Sail drive: every 2 years Hull: still good after 2 years |
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H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
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Ratbasher
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Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 818 |
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Posted: 28 April 2023 at 07:48 |
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8-10 months in Northern European waters:
Prop/Saildrive - one year Bowthruster/Hull - two years Note that before I added a hull anode, the prop & SD anodes barely lasted 2-3 months. The prop is a flexifold with a large rope cutter added, so the surface area the anode was trying to protect was too much for it.
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H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard' Gosport, UK
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Ian2019
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Joined: 04 November 2019 Location: Montenegro Status: Offline Points: 191 |
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Posted: 30 April 2023 at 07:58 |
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Hi Thanks and interesting.
She's in Boka Bay (Adriatic) all year long. Prop button anodes are shot after 2 yrs Prop split anode is still good after 2 yrs ? Bow thruster anodes shot after 2 yrs My hull anode has been on for 3+ yrs and is still really good which I think is a little strange. I've checked the connection under the port bunk and apart from the top nuts only been hand tight and a small amount of sealant between the base of the bottom nut and the washer all seems to be OK. Although I can not trace the cable too far back I assume (as per the label) this is connected to the rudder/auto pilot in the steering compartment. It has been suggested that the hull anode may have failed due to internal (impurities) contamination during manufacturing, anyway it s being changed. cheers
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H385 #317 2014 Tivat Montenegro
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Ratbasher
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Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 818 |
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Posted: 30 April 2023 at 08:07 |
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Sounds like yours are doing well. Agree about your hull anode although if the saildrive leg and the rudder stock are free of any pitting then you're likely to be well protected. I put 5 layers of epoxy on my SD leg i.a.w Yanmar's advisory and have had the new rudder (not yet launched) bonded to the hull anode. While those goes against the advice of the maker of the original rudder, experience with the old (failed) rudder tells me otherwise.
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H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard' Gosport, UK
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Ian2019
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Joined: 04 November 2019 Location: Montenegro Status: Offline Points: 191 |
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Posted: 06 May 2023 at 04:05 |
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I have just had the rubber boot changed no the SD by Volvo and we took the SD out to have a full inspection, I have also dropped the rudder to inspect the shaft and there is no real noticeable pitting on either, but I am still changing the hull anode and considering having one put on to the keel.
BTW its a pain on the 385 to change the Volvo SD rubber boot, the whole engine has to come out!!!!
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H385 #317 2014 Tivat Montenegro
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Dubs2021
Lieutenant Commander
Joined: 04 October 2021 Location: Edmonds, WA Status: Offline Points: 77 |
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Posted: 06 May 2023 at 22:41 |
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After 18 months in the water, year-round, my 348 hull anode had plenty of use left, could have left it in place. The saildrive and prop anodes were ready to change. Fortunately these 3 sets of anodes have substantial bulk. This is in the same marina and pier where we kept our prior vessel, which could barely clear 6-8 months before its thuster, prop and trim tab zincs would be gone.
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Hugh
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Jojo
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Joined: 03 August 2022 Location: liljeholmen swe Status: Offline Points: 166 |
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Posted: 07 May 2023 at 05:11 |
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hallo
Sorry for asking The “hullanode” you called is that not the ground plate ? If so it’s supposed to connect only as safety ground when you have a safetytrasformator in your vessel due to prevent galvanic corrosion When the boat is in the water conduct a simple test. (NOT CONECTED SUORPOWER!!!!) lose the cable from the so named hullanode and measure current using a multimeter between anode and cable you lose If you find a current then measure ohm from that loose cable to the sail drive If yes a current is present and you read a low ohm That can be a reason for a rapid anode failure
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3 Cabin, Hanse 342, Deep draft, Tiller version.
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Brufan
Rear Admiral
Joined: 16 December 2010 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 672 |
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Posted: 07 May 2023 at 18:13 |
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It depends on where and how you stay in water.
I had an "accidental" electrolysis event. It worn Sail drive & prop anode within 4 months and made a big hole in sail drive leg. It came form elsewhere than the yacht hence insurance claim and yacht wasn't connected to shore power except during some weekends. Edited by Brufan - 07 May 2023 at 18:15 |
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Bruno
hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
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Ian2019
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Joined: 04 November 2019 Location: Montenegro Status: Offline Points: 191 |
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Posted: 07 May 2023 at 19:39 |
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Hi Jojo thanks for your interesting post and sure when she's back in the water I'll be doing your test, but now I'm a little confused what's the difference between a ground plate and an anode? and a what is a "safety transformer" maybe I have one but not sure about the terminology. Also I understand the rudder producer now recommend that the rudder should not be grounded (but I may be wrong!).
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H385 #317 2014 Tivat Montenegro
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