SD50 upgrade

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   Hi all,
Today, I started the process for upgrading the SD50 saildrive on Hanuman; the cone clutch start slipping last season. I purchased Gideon’s upgrade kit and I’m following the wonderful instructions on this forum and the YouTube video. 

I’ll document the steps as I go through this process to add to the excellent material already available on this topic.

Question from day 1: the sail drive access in the engine compartment is very limited (you work mostly from above by leaning over the engine) and I’m started to get a bit frustrated. Has anyone tried to cutout an access panel from the starboard cabin (to provide side access or even better access from the backside)? This should make the upgrade job easier and regular inspections more convenient.

Am I missing something here?

Thanks
Prashanth 

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sailinghanuman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Sub Lieutenant Joined: 21 August 2022 Location: Newport, RI Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote sailinghanuman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: SD50 upgrade Posted: 16 March 2024 at 17:05
	Hi all, Today, I started the process for upgrading the SD50 saildrive on Hanuman; the cone clutch start slipping last season. I purchased Gideon’s upgrade kit and I’m following the wonderful instructions on this forum and the YouTube video. I’ll document the steps as I go through this process to add to the excellent material already available on this topic. Question from day 1: the sail drive access in the engine compartment is very limited (you work mostly from above by leaning over the engine) and I’m started to get a bit frustrated. Has anyone tried to cutout an access panel from the starboard cabin (to provide side access or even better access from the backside)? This should make the upgrade job easier and regular inspections more convenient. Am I missing something here? Thanks Prashanth

Mark_J1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 12 March 2013 Location: Dover&Medway UK Status: Offline Points: 690	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mark_J1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 March 2024 at 11:03
	Having had a Yanmar specialist work on saildrive matters on two occasions, they do the cone clutch removal for lapping simply as you say ‘over the engine’ (with engine slid a little forward). Anything more and it’s simplest to separate the engine from the SD50 and slide the engine forward into the cabin. When you do it ‘every day’ it’s surprisingly quick to pull the engine out. All that said, the access to the saildrive is truly poor. So I sympathise! Never did understand why Hanse couldn’t put in at least a sane access to the saildrive mounted seacock. Still love the boat though :) Mark
	Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31

Ratbasher Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vice Admiral Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 818	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ratbasher Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 March 2024 at 12:13
	Prashanth - if you have the screw-down type hull valve and providing your boat is out of the water, you might consider changing to a levered ball valve while you're working in that area. Its much easier to operate and less likely to get stuck. I must have been fortunate in that my Yanmar specialist was hobbit-sized; he simply put padding over the engine, climbed on top and worked happily away without the need to move the engine. That said, the H400 already comes with side panels which clearly yours doesn't. If you don't get a useful answer here I'd sure consult a local shipwright as I've found side access most valuable.
	H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard' Gosport, UK

jeb Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 339	Post Options Post Reply Quote jeb Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 March 2024 at 13:59
	I did this upgrade on my H400 (2006) a few years back. I would not recommend to separate the engine from the transmission since this work will require a "spider man". I just put an old cushion on top of the engine. The majority of the work is to grind the new top-nut to correct play, and that is done in your workshop. When removing the clutch assembly (as you have learned on YouTube), don't use a hammer (on a aluminium block) on the studs when moving the pinion. A fellow Hanse owner did that and broke the bearing housing (the one holding the pinion gear) and needed to separate engine/transmission to fit a new one. You should use some type of wedge. For me second challenge was to seat the new lower collar on the cir clips. Mine was a little bit tight, but using my wise (that has aluminium blocks) I was able to seat it, see picture. Last step is to adjust the shifter and I don't think that Gideons instruction is super easy to follow. Important is to do this BEFORE you re-engage the pinion. You should rotate the vertical shaft with a socket and while rotating engage both forward and revers. If it jams during shifting its to tight. You need to redo this both clockwise and anti clockwise. When it jams, unscrew the setscrew maybe a half turn. I did the process several times and noted the exact position when jaming started (4 different combinations of fw, revers, cw and cww) then pulled back half turn. Make sure it can be shifted (while rotating the drive-shaft) without signs of jamming when you are ready. The position for the setscrew can change after tightening the look-nut as well. Another small challengewas to make space for the new bigger top-nut. Gideon propose to se a dremmel tool, but I went to a friend with a machine shop. After this upgrade I have not had any problems with cone slipping. Before I had to re-lap every second year. Edited by jeb - 21 March 2024 at 14:02
	Jesper Hanse 400e

Ratbasher Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vice Admiral Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 818	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ratbasher Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 March 2024 at 16:20
	I'm not as mechanically-gifted as Jesper and without access to a workshop near the boat, so I paid an engineer. Even though the labour cost was big at £1000, I no longer have to pay £several hundred each time the damn thing needs lapping. Nor do I have the worry that its going to fail when cruising more remote areas. All in all, money very well spent - perhaps the most cost-effective upgrade you can make to your boat even if like me you're not clever enough to do it yourself.
	H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard' Gosport, UK

landlocked Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 568	Post Options Post Reply Quote landlocked Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 March 2024 at 17:08
	Thank you all for sharing your valuable knowledge and experience with this issue. I’ve been expecting to run into this problem but for some reason it has never happened on my 2006 H400. I wonder why my SD50 is behaving better?
	"Kerkyra" 400e #042

Ratbasher Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vice Admiral Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 818	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ratbasher Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 March 2024 at 06:02
	Hi Owen - possibilities: a. as Kjeld often warns, perhaps you've only ever been using GL4 and not GL5 oil b. you never actually use your engine c. you're just plain lucky d. you're tone deaf at exactly the right pitch and can't hear it squealing d. your clutch is just waiting for you to be in the most remote position in the worst possible weather..... My money's on the last one. Boats are like that. Iain
	H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard' Gosport, UK

RichardC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Sub Lieutenant Joined: 11 May 2023 Location: Port Solent Status: Offline Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote RichardC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 June 2024 at 10:15
	Hi Guys, I have a SD50 saildrive and it started slipping. When I attempted to check the oil, it started coming out of the dipstick hole, it wasnt like that last week. What does this mean? From an anchorage in Spain! Many thanks.
	Richard C

Ratbasher Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vice Admiral Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 818	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ratbasher Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 June 2024 at 10:44
	Hi Richard - I'm afraid it means you need to lap the clutch. If you put that into the 'advanced search' on this site you'll get lots of info on what this entails and why you've got over-pressure on the oil. If (like me) you're not competent to do the job yourself you'll need to find a (preferably a Yanmar) mechanic familiar with the work. Do be aware that the work can easily be done without moving the engine so don't be persuaded otherwise. As a guide, the cost in the Solent area would be about £400-500. This lapping is usually good for about 250-500 hours. Depending on how happy you are to remain where you are and if you find a mechanic that you've confidence in and is prepared to do the work (not all are), you may even care to consider going the whole hog and ordering the upgrade kit. I got mine within just a few days of ordering and it sorted the oil issue out as well. So much depends on your programme, however. As a 'limp along' tactic you may be able to make progress keeping the engine in low revs; it should be OK in astern too if that gear was required or if you just felt like entertaining onlookers. Engage the gear and increase the revs as slowly and steadily as you can until you reach an acceptable speed then leave it there. Good luck!
	H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard' Gosport, UK

RichardC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Sub Lieutenant Joined: 11 May 2023 Location: Port Solent Status: Offline Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote RichardC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 June 2024 at 11:04
	Hi Ratbasher, Thanks very much for your quick reply, I have no problem lapping the clutch here on anchor, but oil rushes out of the dipstick hole which is concerning at best. I searched and read the posts but couldn't find any mention of over-pressure. Many thanks for your help.
	Richard C



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