Anchor Windlass

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   The switch for the anchor windlass got wet and shorted so that the windlass ran whilst sailing.This caused the clutch on the windlass to burn out, so the windlass slips when we want to raise the anchor.
I am trying to take it apart for a rebuild, but the windlass itself is seized on.

We may have to replace the Lewmar windlass on our 400. Is there any way to get to the bolts and the back of the switches without cutting a hole in the liner from the forward cabin?
Thanks

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blackswan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Joined: 25 January 2016 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 29	Post Options Post Reply Quote blackswan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Anchor Windlass Posted: 24 November 2017 at 22:00
	The switch for the anchor windlass got wet and shorted so that the windlass ran whilst sailing. This caused the clutch on the windlass to burn out, so the windlass slips when we want to raise the anchor. I am trying to take it apart for a rebuild, but the windlass itself is seized on. We may have to replace the Lewmar windlass on our 400. Is there any way to get to the bolts and the back of the switches without cutting a hole in the liner from the forward cabin? Thanks

Jens Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commander Joined: 31 August 2007 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 85	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jens Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26 November 2017 at 13:43
	I moved my windlass to the front last year. To get it off I cut a hole in the side and after winch was removed I covered the hole with a fiber plate sealed with Sikaflex. It was quite easy to dismount the winch, so maybe you can buy a smaller standard hatch as I have in the front of the anchor locker.
	Jens Hanse 370, #423, 2008 Three cabin

blackswan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Joined: 25 January 2016 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 29	Post Options Post Reply Quote blackswan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26 November 2017 at 23:11
	Thanks Jens, thats exactly what we thought we would have to do, cut a hole to remove the switched and cover it over, also cut a hole if we need to replace the winch. Not exactly a maintenance friendly design is it?

astarte Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commander Joined: 14 September 2008 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 135	Post Options Post Reply Quote astarte Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 November 2017 at 15:46
	Jens, Interesting, was thinking of the same with my 370. How did you run the cables forward to the new position? How is the steel framme for the windlass fastened? To the inner liner or to the hull?
	Kristoffer Hanse 370e #412

jeb Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 339	Post Options Post Reply Quote jeb Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 November 2017 at 18:01
	Hi, I recently fitted a windlass in a semilar way. To secure the shelf I used rectangular aluminum bars glued to the back of the liner. I drilled holes thru the shelf and the liner. I drilled and tapered holes in the aluminum bars using the shelf as template. Then i glued the aluminum bars with sikaflex and secured them using the mounting bolts (M8). Access was tight thru the inspection hatch. When the sika was cured I finally mounted the shelf. Cables were routed the same way (between liner and hull) and finally thrue the bulkhead.
	Jesper Hanse 400e

landlocked Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 568	Post Options Post Reply Quote landlocked Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 November 2017 at 23:46
	Here are some photos of the similar mod I made seven years ago. Removing the windlass was not so difficult because on my model year (2006) Hanse used an aluminum bracket rather than a molded base for the windlass. I recall using a blowtorch to release the sikaflex to remove the old bracket, but the windlass bolts were all accessible.
	"Kerkyra" 400e #042

moss Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Joined: 12 February 2019 Location: The Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote moss Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 January 2020 at 21:49
	Hello, could you give any advice on which model of windlass should/could be installed? do you think the symmetry matters in case it has to be installed on portside or starboard? I found the two following ones 1. this is "recommended" for H415, currently installed by Hanse https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/ankerwinde-g1000u-800w-12v-8mm.html 2. this is recommended for H400, seems it WAS installed in the past https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/spare-parts/anchoring-mooring/ankerwinde.html?boatmodel=13 brand is Lewmar, no details on model are available, significant difference in price. Could you please give any advice? thanks in advance Gian Paolo

Captain Cook Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1245	Post Options Post Reply Quote Captain Cook Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 January 2020 at 10:30
	Lewmar Pro Series 1000 12V was mounted in my boat in 2006 Edited by Captain Cook - 21 January 2020 at 10:37
	Freya H400 #27 (2006),2-cabin, 40HP 3JH4E, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)

moss Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Joined: 12 February 2019 Location: The Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote moss Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 January 2020 at 11:42
	Thanks for the reply! 13 years later still working. Do you know also what device to use to control this system? button with a line, other? any advice between Lewmar or Quick? Size should be the same

Captain Cook Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1245	Post Options Post Reply Quote Captain Cook Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 January 2020 at 19:58
	Try Google: https://www.lewmar.com/Lewmar-Files/Manual_Pro-series-fish-manual-G3_B10414%20iss1.pdf In this manual you can read about my model, and in the wiring diagram you can see that a contactor, an automatic curcuit breaker and a main curcuit breaker are needed. If you look at the pictures above, you can see the operating gizmo supplied by Hanse, I have furthermore installed an up/down switch at the steering pedestal. Picture here under: Contactor in the middle, curcuit breaker marked Anchor under this. I have mentioned this quite a few times before, and it concerns all myhanse members: Publish your Flag, Hanse Type and Hull # as a minimum in your posts. It is a nicer style, than if your are anonymous. Edited by Captain Cook - 22 January 2020 at 23:00
	Freya H400 #27 (2006),2-cabin, 40HP 3JH4E, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)



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