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Seaworthiness upgrades |
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Black Diamond 
Admiral 
Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 1275 |
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 Topic: Seaworthiness upgradesPosted: 27 December 2019 at 10:03 |
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I'm now 2 years into my 575 and very much like the boat. I've done a number of upgrades from solar panels to watermaker to accumulator tanks, but only a few relating to the seaworthiness and safety of the vessel. While I think its a well built vessel, there are some aspects that I do not like and intend to address. For example, I don't like the way Hanse does thru-hulls, with a plastic thru-hull connecting to a brass ball valve. Enough torque and you could snap the plastic. Supposedly compliant with CE but clearly a cost oriented solution with the number of thru-hulls on the boat. I'm replacing these in two waves of work with proper, bronze, 1 piece seacocks. Until then (and probably after) I have wooden plugs tied to each seacock in case of trouble. I've also added raw water strainers to the air conditioning raw water input as this used to clog all the time with eel grass. Another example is the lack of a dual racor-like fuel filer allowing you to switch filters while motoring. It also provides a fuel polishing system for the tanks. I had this in a prior boat, but have been struggling with where to put it on the 575. Many of the locations will have lift pressure issues. I'm convinced it can be done, but it hasn't been a priority just yet. For another, we added a Pfifertex barrier across the stern gate
lines. We also upgraded the pelican hooks for a better connection. I'm interested in what other 575 owners have done to their boats to increase the safety, maintainability, or rough weather characteristics of the boat. Not so much the cosmetics, or things like a "stock of spares" for water pumps, impellers, that sort of thing. More things that keep the ocean out, you on board, or allow you to do something easily that might otherwise be a difficult job (like the fuel filter draining underway).. Edited by Black Diamond - 27 December 2019 at 10:04 |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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Wayne's World
Admiral
Joined: 18 July 2012 Location: Cruising Status: Offline Points: 1434 |
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Posted: 27 December 2019 at 12:39 |
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Rick,
We are coming up to 6 years with our 575 and have covered around 20,000 nm in that period. we are about to start our crossing over to the Caribbean with the first leg - Canary's to Cape Verde Isl to start in about 2 days time. A lot of the following is pretty standard stuff. The only things we have done to improve safety are- 1. Fit Dyneema lines in place of the SS safety lines on the aft and side gates. This was also partly to make these lines easier to handle when in port. 2. Fitted a per pre filter to the fuel system. This has a glass bowl which can be easily checked for fouling. I also fitted a drain cock to the standard Volvo pre filter which originally had a hex screw-in plug. 3. Fitted a manual bilge pump in the forepeak where there was no pump. 4. Upgraded the standard bilge pump in the center bilge area with a higher capacity and high duty cycle unit. We carry a spare for the two electric pumps on board. 5. We lengthened the "roaming" bilge pump suction line as the original one could not reach the forepeak. 6. For any longer trip and overnight trips we fit jack stays from the aft cleats to the forward cleats. We also fit a "T" shaped jack stay in the cockpit from the companion way to the aft and outboard of each steering position. 7. We fitted the usual dive knives by each steering position and one to the vang. 8. We always wear Spinlock infaltable lifejackets/harness's when on long trips, overnight or if the weather is strong. We have recently fitted the RescueME MOB1 AIS beacons to each jacket. We also replaced the "pylon" lights on these jackets as they have a bad habit of not working. We fitted SOLAS water activated lights in place of the pylon lights. We also fitted two of the water activated Spinlock Lume On lights which shine through the bladder and make the wearer more visible at night in the water. 9. We originally had the Spinlock safety tethers but have now changed to the Kong double safety tethers (one leg normal length and one short- both elasticated) with a quick release. The carabiners on the Kong are much stronger and I like the idea of the quick release rather than trying to find the pathetic safety knife on the lifejacket. 10. Again for the longer crossings where we are out of AIS/VHF range we have fitted a Iridiun GO with auto hourly positional updates. We could also take the Iridium Go with us in case of abandoning ship. 11. We of course have a 6 person liferaft on board. Recently serviced for the next crossing. 12. We have always had a EPIRB onboard. At home in OZ any boat of any size , as well as jet skis etc which go further then 2nm off the coast must have an EPIRB. 13. We have an electronic flare onboard which although does not replace the need for conventional pyrotechnic flares would be much safer in a liferaft. 14. Although not strictly safety equipment we use Bluetooth headsets when anchor or more importantly when working up the mast. 15 When working up the mast I always use a second halyard with a fall arrester/desender. 16. Training - we have both completed commercial safety at sea training course like the STCW which included safety drills, firefighting and liferaft use (in a indoor facility which has a wave tank, wind and can be blacked out - so fairly realistic). 17. Apart from the standard 3 x 2kg dry chem fire extinguishers we have also fitted 2 x 2kg CO2 extinguishers and a fire blanket. 18. if it comes to cutting a broken rig ways we have a giant pair of shears, 2 hacksaws with 4 spare blades taped to each and a cordless 18V angle grinder fitted with a cut off wheel. I have tried the shears and they are great for small cable but would be difficult to use on our rigging. The hacksaws will get the job done. The angle grinder is very quick to cut through any size rigging. 19. Again, mainly for the longer crossings we have Panasonic Tough note book with GPS, nav software and world wide charts. So if the boats normal nav equipment went entirely US we can use the note book which is waterproof and shock proof etc to a MIL Spec. 20. It probably goes without saying but a schedule of replacement, servicing, testing, inspection and upgrading (where applicable) of equipment is part of the safety on board. I agree that the Hanse option of fitting the "plastic" through hulls with brass valves is probably not the best I would probably opt to replace the valves with the matching "plastic" valves rather than go back to all metal. Good to hear you are still enjoying your 575 as are we.
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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026. |
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Black Diamond
Admiral
Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 1275 |
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Posted: 27 December 2019 at 13:38 |
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Wayne, good thoughts.. see comments: 1.
Fit Dyneema lines in place of the SS safety lines on the aft and side
gates. This was also partly to make these lines easier to handle when in
port. * Good idea... right now this isn't much of an issue, though 2. Fitted a per pre filter to the fuel system. This has
a glass bowl which can be easily checked for fouling . I also fitted a
drain cock to the standard Volvo pre filter which originally had a hex
screw-in plug. * I'll lump this into the design of the dual racor/filter system mentioned above. An option. 3. Fitted a manual bilge pump in the forepeak where there was no pump. * I like this idea. I was going to put an electric pump in, driven by the thruster batteries, but wasn't sure where to pump it out. Did you put a discharge hole in? Or send it to the anchor locker for draining that way? 4.
Upgraded the standard bilge pump in the center bilge area with a higher
capacity and high duty cycle unit. We carry a spare for the two
electric pumps on board. * Did that. I took the 1000 Rule out of the main bilge and replaced it with a 2500. I then took the 1000 and moved it to the mast bilge which was an 800 (and didn't seem to work anyway).. I have a spare bilge pump on board. 5. We lengthened the "roaming" bilge pump suction line as the original one could not reach the forepeak. * Interesting. it was plenty long for most of the interior needs we had 6.
For any longer trip and overnight trips we fit jack stays from the aft
cleats to the forward cleats. We also fit a "T" shaped jack stay in the
cockpit from the companion way to the aft and outboard of each steering
position. I have jacklines for both sides as well as d-rings in the cockpit. Our life jackets have personal signal devices (AIS, not EPIRBS for now) and the boat has an EPIRB with GPS. Where do you attach the "T"jackstay in the cockpit. We just have bungee harness lines to the d-rings for rough weather. 7. We fitted the usual dive knives by each steering position and one to the vang. * Explain this one. I usually just carry a knife on me. Attaching them to the vang and at each station has what advantage? 8.
We always wear Spinlock infaltable lifejackets/harness's when on long
trips, overnight or if the weather is strong. We have recently fitted
the RescueME MOB1 AIS beacons to each jacket. We also replaced the
"pylon" lights on these jackets as they have a bad habit of not working.
We fitted SOLAS water activated lights in place of the pylon lights. We
also fitted two of the water activated Spinlock Lume On lights which
shine through the bladder and make the wearer more visible at night in
the water. * As said above, same beacons are on our inflatable jackets. Mine is a spinlock as well and I change the cartridges and tablets every year after testing the jacket for holding air. I have whistles tied to the jacket as well as a strobe. Its usually just myself and my wife sailing, so we go all out. I also have a 6 person, ISO certified life raft (in a bag, not on the rail) that I can haul out from the life-raft locker. I'm worried that sounds easier than it will be in an emergency, but for now its the plan. 9. We originally had the Spinlock safety tethers
but have now changed to the Kong double safety tethers (one leg normal
length and one short- both elasticated) with a quick release. The
carabiners on the Kong are much stronger and I like the idea of the
quick release rather than trying to find the pathetic safety knife on
the lifejacket. * I saw the article on the tethers and shackles in PS. We have not upgraded our tethers to date, but I understand the issue. My tethers are single length, bungee retracted, high shock rated. That said, I know they could change for the better. 10. Again for the longer crossings where we
are out of AIS/VHF range we have fitted a Iridiun GO with auto hourly
positional updates. We could also take the Iridium Go with us in case of
abandoning ship. * I like this idea. I was just going to get a SatPhone for general use as well when sailing offshore. That and finally get an SSB (don't have one now). 11. We of course have a 6 person liferaft on board. Recently serviced for the next crossing. *As well. Mine came from LRSE in RI. Very well known firm for survival gear. 12.
We have always had a EPIRB onboard. At home in OZ any boat of any size ,
as well as jet skis etc which go further then 2nm off the coast must
have an EPIRB. * ACR GPS EPIRB on board. Registered beacon with another year on it before the batteries need to be serviced. Again LRSE. 13. We have an electronic flare onboard which
although does not replace the need for conventional pyrotechnic flares
would be much safer in a liferaft. * I have a floating ditch bag in the same locker as the life raft with the following in it: Handheld VHF and GPS combo A 25MM flare gun with 2 parachute flares and a 12GA adapter for normal flare shells Unexpired flares to meet Coast Guard regulations First aid kit Water a couple of MRE (US military term - 3 lies for the price of one) A few bags of my old expired flares separated and labeled as "EXPIRED". What the hell.... they probably will work, so.... 14. Although not strictly safety equipment we use Bluetooth headsets when anchor or more importantly when working up the mast. * I've been thinking of this, but more for anchoring...Which ones? 15 When working up the mast I always use a second halyard with a fall arrester/desender. * I just have a second halyard as a backup. As one is hauled up, the slack is taken up on the other. I also *NEVER* rely on the shackle. I tie a bowline for both. 16.
Training - we have both completed commercial safety at sea training
course like the STCW which included safety drills, firefighting and
liferaft use (in a indoor facility which has a wave tank, wind and can
be blacked out - so fairly realistic). * I've gone thru the US Coast Guard courses, but not the offshore safety ones. Good idea. I've learned that all your plans can go to #%@#@# pretty quickly and you need to think about Plans B, C and D as well... 17. Apart from the
standard 3 x 2kg dry chem fire extinguishers we have also fitted 2 x 2kg
CO2 extinguishers and a fire blanket. We have four chemical fire extinguishers on board. Different types as required for engine/cooking and different sources. 18. if it comes to
cutting a broken rig ways we have a giant pair of shears, 2 hacksaws
with 4 spare blades taped to each and a cordless 18V angle grinder
fitted with a cut off wheel. I have tried the shears and they are great
for small cable but would be difficult to use on our rigging. The
hacksaws will get the job done. The angle grinder is very quick to cut
through any size rigging. * I originally brought over my bolt cutters from the prior boat. The heavy things could cut padlocks, chain and other seemingly indestructable objects, but then I saw the shrouds on the 575. They were not going to do the job. I have an AC grinder with carbon/diamond cut-off wheel and assumed that might be the way to go. 19. Again, mainly for the longer
crossings we have Panasonic Tough note book with GPS, nav software and
world wide charts. So if the boats normal nav equipment went entirely US
we can use the note book which is waterproof and shock proof etc to a
MIL Spec. * I looked at the Mil-SPEC tablets on the last boat. Good idea for a backup. If you roll or take a ton of water you have to assume everything will have gotten soaked. 20. It probably goes without saying but a schedule
of replacement, servicing, testing, inspection and upgrading (where
applicable) of equipment is part of the safety on board. * Already have a maintenance log. Most of it is tied to spring/fall commissioning/decommissioning, but others to engine or generator hours. Some, like lubricating seacocks or cleaning / rebuilding winches happens in the spring. I
agree that the Hanse option of fitting the "plastic" through hulls with
brass valves is probably not the best I would probably opt to replace
the valves with the matching "plastic" valves rather than go back to all
metal. * I've looked at the Marlon one piece units and I'd rather have those than what I have now. That said, most of the work in replacing these is labor. A 1 1/4" bronze seacock is about US$100 and the marlon are pretty much the same. Sometimes more. Call me a traditionalist :-) I already have the bonding system in place, so... Thanks for the tips! |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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Fendant
Admiral
Joined: 03 November 2012 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 1671 |
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Posted: 28 December 2019 at 18:30 |
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"A 25MM flare gun with 2 parachute flares and a 12GA adapter for normal flare shells"
Rick, I am very familiar with the gun regulations here in Europe and I assume it will be the same in the French an Dutch overseas territories like ABC, Martinique, Guadeloupe. I would check this out, before customs and excise find it and lock you up for not declaring it. If you want to keep it on board you need to possess a gun owners licence ( which necessitates a background check by your police ) and provide a an approved stronghold storage on board for the gun. Ammunition has to be kept in a separate locked storage. All these installations and papers need to be renewed regularly, in most countries it is 12 months. These are the main reasons why signal ammunition has been abandoned by most private vessels here. I admit I have no idea if, how and where a US citizen could apply for a European gun license. |
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Frank
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Black Diamond
Admiral
Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 1275 |
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Posted: 28 December 2019 at 18:35 |
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Sorry... not sure what you are pointing out: That the 25MM flare gun is illegal in many parts of the world? That the adapter that converts 25MM to 12gauge shells is illegal? That you think I have a 12GA shotgun capable of firing flares? :-) if one of the first two, then that's good to know. I was not aware. |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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Fendant
Admiral
Joined: 03 November 2012 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 1671 |
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Posted: 28 December 2019 at 20:31 |
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Hi Rick,
yes, your 25 mm flare gun is subject to national fire arms legislation, at least outside of the USA. Same applies to your adapter. In Europe governments strongly believe that any fire arm should be restricted to law enforcement officials and armed forces on duty where ever. That's the reason why hurdles for individuals have been raised to Denali altitude. License application and of course the costly annual checks are also annoying hunters, for which another bureaucratic monster procedure has been created. Bear in mind that in the UK normal police does still not carry fire arms while on duty. Instead each police department has one "Fire armed Squad". Following the Dunblane massacre, the government passed the Firearms (Amendment) Act 1997 and the Firearms (Amendment) (No. 2) Act 1997, defining "short firearms" as Section 5 Prohibited Weapons, which effectively banned private possession of handguns almost completely." |
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Frank
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Black Diamond
Admiral
Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 1275 |
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Posted: 29 December 2019 at 17:54 |
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Thanks for the information on the 25MM. I admit I was not aware and I'll keep that in mind. Your location says "Switzerland". Isn't this where people take assault weapons home with them from their mandatory military service? :-) |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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Yeoey
Captain 
Joined: 22 August 2016 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 162 |
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Posted: 01 January 2020 at 05:16 |
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hi Rick,
May I make a suggestion please, that may help you in your decision re sea cocks - if do a little research on the “ plastic” thu hull components which are manufactured in New Zealand by Trudesign before you remove them-they are not plastic and their web site quotes what they made from and their tourqe/strength levels. Some people regard them as being the best in the market place but how does one really tell. Owners may have opinions like myself, but boat surveyors and insurance loss assessors probably have more real experience and reference to articles I mention below helped me gain more understanding. I subscribe to the world wide Cruisers Forum and before you make the changes some of their topic discussions on the issue may be of interest.there is a app for CF In relation to the brass fittings may I suggest you confirm that they are or are not fully brass but you may find they are the high quality type which includes zinc which is more appropriate in salt waters. There is an informative article via a British surveyor called Paul Stephens And another by Paul,GELDER that can be easily accessed on the net that I found most interesting and also some comfort in that aspect of Hanse yacht ownership and the EU standards suggesting replacement around 5 years especially as the Marlon (plastic) type that were fitted to a yacht I helped build in the early 1980s still had them installed without problems some 20 years later. |
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Peter
Sea Rambler 415 # 137 |
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Black Diamond
Admiral
Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 1275 |
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Posted: 01 January 2020 at 10:56 |
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My issue is not with the individual components used, but with the assembly as complete. Someone would have to work very hard to prove that a ball valve screwed onto a thru-hull is as strong as a flanged, one-piece, seacock. From my perspective, I don't want the act of "persuading" a reluctant ball valve to open to snap the thru-hull below it. See video.. while I'm not sure about his numbers.. I agree with the conclusion... the part that is similar to the HANSE seacock design (although they show Bronze) is starting at 4:56 into the video. About 10 other sources (including Seacock companies) validate this concern. FWIW |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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Black Diamond
Admiral
Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 1275 |
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Posted: 02 January 2020 at 11:03 |
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So Peter on Sea Rambler suggested I look at TruDesign. I did a little research on the TruDesign web site and found its an interesting option. My core issue is that the screwing of the ball valve onto the thru-hull without spreading the load out could cause the whole assembly to snap when you need to "persuade" the ball valve to open. Snapping would (by simple physics) happen at the lowest point below the ball valve and cause a "problem". If the thru-hulls in my 575 *ARE* TruDesign, then they seem to have recognized this problem and provided a collar which spreads the load and effectively locks the ball valve in place. In other words, it can handle the additional torque. This IMPLIES the following: 1. I don't need to replace the thru-hulls and spend the money for new glass work and bronze thru hulls. 2. I can simply screw the TruDesign ball valves on top of the existing thru hull (while its out of the water of course) and install the collar to spread the load. 3. The only parts that need to be replaced would be the ball valve and hose barb, with the purchase of the collar for load spreading. 4. it has the additional value of not being susceptible to bonding or corrosion issues. I'll be researching this further in the next couple of weeks. See picture.  |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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