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Antifouling selection

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Jacques Dubois View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jacques Dubois Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 November 2011 at 10:52
I got my new 400 on March 31 daarliet thuis year. I got the boat at Workum (NL) on the Ijselmeer but I sail mainly on the North Sea.
I think the antifouling USD isn't up to it. I knowhow the one USD is Hempel Combic 71990. I will switch to Nautix. Brgds
Jacques Dubois
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aquilo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquilo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 April 2012 at 13:31
Is there an easy way to check if the antifouling is of type "eroding" or "hard" ? 
 
After some googling I found that some Hanses have been painted at shipyard (Greifswald) with Micron Trilux (hard) and some says Micron Extra (eroding)...(?)
 
I believed our boat (delivered 2010) was painted with some type of eroding, but now I'm not so sure...
It seems also you have to mix colors yourself to match the original color of the antifouling.
 
 


Edited by aquilo - 18 April 2012 at 14:21
Hanse 320
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anti View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 April 2012 at 13:53
Originally posted by aquilo aquilo wrote:

Is there an easy way to check if the antifouling is of type "eroding" or "hard".
 

Just smoothly rub your palm against it, .......if it's in your hand, it's eroding.

I'd say that if it was eroding you would probably know, it ends up on everythingSmile
s/y Maike Hanse 315 #455 tiller, Z-spar rig, Yanmar 3YM20
http://maike.orpi.se/
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 April 2012 at 14:01
gave up with all the usual antifouling paints this year
had the boat shot blasted fot £ 250-00 cash
Bought enough coppercoat for £ 597-00 - boatshow deal included rollers & epoxy for keel
Spent 4 part days sanding hull & cleaning waterline ( jet blaster stopped 3 inches away from the edge)
Spent 3 days applying the copper ( 2 hard days for 2 people doing main hull coats plus one easy day for 1 person doing the keel & where the pads to the stand went went plus 1.5 hours epoxying the keel 20 mins after it was shot blasted)
paid the yard £ 19-00 to attend on blaster to adjust the stand pads so he could do behind them
paid the yard £ 60-00 to move the boat 2 ft forward so I could get at bits where pads were to allow me to paint them at same time as the keel
Whole cost  inc some sandpaper etc just under £ 1000-00
this compares favourably with 6 days sanding & 2 days antifouling Blakes Ocean performer at 2 X £ 96-00 plus sandpaper rollesr etc which I have had to do every year. ( Blakes is now Hempel & cost will not get any less)
Hopefully system will last 8-10 years
We have boats in the yard done 8 years ago & now having further coats applied for another 8 years worth. They all seem to think it is OK
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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CharlesP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CharlesP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 April 2012 at 14:29
You have to buy the antifouling type which suits your situation and area.  For me, Seajet Shogun worked very well, whereas other Seajet products whether more expensive or cheaper did not.  None of the International range worked very well.
I now have Coppercoat which is just ok at the moment, but really needs a mid-season wash.  Perhaps it will perform better during its second year. (I have always previously gone through the whole season without washing off).
 
Charles
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway
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aquilo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquilo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 April 2012 at 15:31
On my previous boat I used Jotun Non Stop (eroding type). After a complete removal of several years of old antifouling, I started to apply only a thin layer (using a "foam" roller) of antifouling and only at places where the primer could be seen through the antifouling (typically front of keel and bow part). Worked well + avoided building up thick layers of antifouling.
 
My experience is that most boat owners (I previously did also) apply more antifouling than really necessary (save money and work Smile). 
 
That's why I would like to know what type and color originally applied on my Hanse 320, to re-apply only on those areas where strictly needed.
 


Edited by aquilo - 18 April 2012 at 15:31
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