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Martin&Rene 
Vice Admiral 
Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 967 |
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 Posted: 22 May 2024 at 11:21 |
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Johan had asked me the question how much to change the saildrive seal.
Mine was changed in 2021, as it was then 17-18 years old, but my yacht is out of the water for 5 months each winter. The estimate was around £2200. I had always had oil collecting on the round plate of the saildrive and one engineer had assured me that the only place it could come from was from the oil filler cap. Numerous new filler caps and seals failed to solve the problem. When a different engineering company pulled the saildrive, they found that the oil seal on the input shaft was worn, hence the oil leak, and it had subsequently damaged the input shaft to the saildrive, so a new input pinion shaft was required. The final bill was around £2800, which included around 3 man days work. I think you just have to accept a big bill is coming and say to the engineers, is there anything else worth looking at whilst you have the engine and the saildrive out where they easily work on it. Better to spend some money now, than finding you have to replace an engine some time in the future.
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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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Johan Hackman
Admiral of the Fleet 
Joined: 24 August 2005 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 4361 |
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Posted: 23 May 2024 at 09:28 |
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I understand the reasoning but would I replace the seal every eight years to stay (fully) insured if the boat sinks due to a leaking seal that is less than eight years old? When every testiment is that when replaced the seal looks like new? This is what I mean by catch 22.
When it comes to the other parts of the engine that needs to be looked at, I hear you. Johan Edited by Johan Hackman - 23 May 2024 at 09:49 |
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415 Singapore
Vice Admiral
Joined: 23 September 2013 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 935 |
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Posted: 23 May 2024 at 10:31 |
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It is not necessarily the age or condition of the seal that can cause problems.
Recently there was an instance here with a Beneteau (40?) that caught a sunken mooring rope round their prop. The rope was strong enough to stop the engine instantly, the resulting torque broke 2 engine mounts and tore the sail drive seal. Fortunately they were still in a busy anchorage and with a quick thinking crew and rapid outside assistance they stopped the boat sinking, but it did result in a lot of internal water damage. Unfortunately, in such a scenario, I really doubt any insurance company is going to pay out if they can prove you haven’t replaced the seal as recommended. I think you have to add it to the cost of the joys of boat ownership! All the best Paul
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Paul - Night Train - 415 #136
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2770 |
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Posted: 23 May 2024 at 12:47 |
Johan Is it not a bit like rigging? you can look at the wires in the length or the bottlescrews & they look perfect. But one does not know what chemical changes has happened within the structure itself. How does one know that the rubber has maintained its flexibility. I do not think that you can do a test just by flexing it with your hands. Perhaps you feel that you can. I change my Volvo seal every 7 year & note the date on it when I buy it to check that I am not buying old stock to start with. Sometimes I hook things with the prop that really shake the boat ( several times a year in fact) & I do worry that it affects the seal in a way that I cannot see. It might be my imagination, but I reckon the old one is always stiffer than the new one.Is it going hard? Absolutely no idea. I do not suppose anyone else has even thought to compare the old with new. As for The comment about shaft seal & water ingress by M & R above. I change the seals everytime I change the saildrive seal as a general maintenance item. Just seems a sensible precaution easily done with the drive on the bench. It takes 30 mins to do.
Edited by samuel - 23 May 2024 at 12:54 |
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Johan Hackman
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 24 August 2005 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 4361 |
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Posted: 23 May 2024 at 14:11 |
I was going to say that. In my insurance policy there is no requirement to replace the rigging regurlarly but I have read about others that do. In fact, my insurer advertise their service with no reduction for age. That means that if I loose my mast they will compensate for a new one. On my previous boat, a 20-footer I sailed 30 years ago, I lost the mast and had to pay for most of the new mast since there was a reduction at the time. I find this discussion interesting but do not claim to have the right answer to any of the questions. By the way, an Arcona was recently lost because the Jefa rudder stock broke. That should worry me since I have replaced my rudder just recently. I know very little about the case but at the moment I am not worried that it will happen to me. Johan Edited by Johan Hackman - 23 May 2024 at 22:12 |
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2770 |
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Posted: 23 May 2024 at 17:09 |
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I think that you missunderstood my rigging comment. It was more about reviewing stainless steel as a typical example of material than anything else. I just happened to pick rigging. It could just have easily been mooring chain,life lines or dynema.
Edited by samuel - 23 May 2024 at 17:10 |
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Johan Hackman
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 24 August 2005 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 4361 |
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Posted: 23 May 2024 at 22:20 |
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I am trying to figure out how I misunderstood you, Samuel. We usually don't misunderstand each other.
What I am saying is that there is a difference between what you must look after on your boat and what the insurance will cover in the case of something going wrong. The policy states that the insurance covers "sudden and unforeseeable" events. There will always be a lot of things on a boat that you can inspect ever so carefully that will fail in the least favourable moment and we should all be aware of that. The insurance itself can also go wrong. You expect to be covered but when it gets down to it you are not. Johan Edited by Johan Hackman - 24 May 2024 at 00:10 |
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Henryk
Sub Lieutenant 
Joined: 01 February 2017 Location: Poland Gdansk Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Posted: 17 June 2025 at 17:43 |
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Hi everybody, if you con not stop the engone, it should be the solenoid.
The solenoid is activeted to stop the fuel supply to the pomp.
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Henryk
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Johan Hackman wrote: