348 jib sheet up the mast

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   am I the only one who questions the value of Jib sheet being routed up/ down mast?(Full disclosure; I am a new owner so may just be complicating by bad usage practices)
My wife and I double hand our new 348 as we had done with our prior (bigger) boat. Love the hands off tacking from the helm, but when reefing/furling, it appears to have unnessary drag with all that sheet running through blocks and seems to put significant pressure on roller furler (resulting in VERY tightly wound furled jib).
Thoughts? suggestions

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CaptnJohn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Sub Lieutenant Joined: 03 August 2023 Location: 11971 Status: Offline Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote CaptnJohn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 348 jib sheet up the mast Posted: 22 April 2024 at 21:34
	am I the only one who questions the value of Jib sheet being routed up/ down mast? (Full disclosure; I am a new owner so may just be complicating by bad usage practices) My wife and I double hand our new 348 as we had done with our prior (bigger) boat. Love the hands off tacking from the helm, but when reefing/furling, it appears to have unnessary drag with all that sheet running through blocks and seems to put significant pressure on roller furler (resulting in VERY tightly wound furled jib). Thoughts? suggestions
	John's348

perry Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 13 October 2015 Location: IOW Status: Offline Points: 318	Post Options Post Reply Quote perry Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 April 2024 at 08:08
	Hi, When I got my 315 I took off the block on Jib clew and run single sheet, on my previous Hanse 301 I did the same. Works well Both these yachts in my opinion are better with normal single sheeting of jib. As the sheet comes back to a wimch for trimming I cannot see the sense of doubling up and having a block flailing about on the clew of such a relatively small jib. Your 348 has aslightly larger jib but I would expect it could be improved by going single sheet; try it? I conclude when I see most all Hanse owners using double jib sheet they think that as the yacht comes that way it must be right? Me? well as a retired R&D Eng. I see no reason not to improve on anyones design, and if its not an improvement change it. Perry East Cowes Isle ofWight Yacht Bloto-4 H315 [2007]
	Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017

samuel Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2770	Post Options Post Reply Quote samuel Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 April 2024 at 13:27
	Removing the block on the jib increases the load on the pulley in the mast & the pulley at deck level. Perhaps it would be better to look for better pullies by the jib clew & on the traveller. Whilst I only have a 311 & not the larger jib of the OP's 34 I never sail with a reefed ST jib. I would rather furl it completely. The boat carries it quite well if the mainsail is reefed up to F8. My older dacron STs could just about be carried unfurled in F8 off the wind. I do not know about my current laminated one. This being a more powerful sail. But so far I have not had to try to sail in more than F7 with it. But I have never part furled that either. Edited by samuel - 23 April 2024 at 13:37
	Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex

Kox Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 18 May 2020 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 192	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kox Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 April 2024 at 14:11
	The up/down-the mast routing is made like this, to ensure, that the tension on the sheet is the same when you tack from starboard to port tacks and vice-versa. This because the length from the pulley on the rail, is the same to the point of the pulley in the mast on either tack. People have experimented with a block somewhere forward on the deck instead. You'll have almost the same resistance, though, and the foredeck more clogged. If you have 12 or 14mm sheet diameter, you could go to a 10mm. Smaller diameter gives less resistance. Oh, yeah, and as Samuel says, replace the blocks.
	Hanse 315, Ella, Hull# 640

Martin&Rene Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vice Admiral Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 967	Post Options Post Reply Quote Martin&Rene Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 April 2024 at 17:55
	Problem Solving Time Next time you furl the jib, go forward and pull the rope direct from the drum. If it is a lot easier, then you need to look at the furling line route. I replaced various stanchion bullseyes with pulleys and then replaced the plastic pulleys with alloy ones turned by my elder brother. (Sometimes they do have a use!) The final turn to the cockpit definitely should be from a pulley. Just before furling, ease the jib halyard by 5cm and see if this makes a difference. Yes, I know some furler manufacturers say do not ease the halyard as you risk a jib halyard wrap, but 5 cms should not cause a problem. If it does, then it suggests the angle between the jib halyard and the forestay is too small. It should be over 10deg and if it is not, then consider putting some shackles at the head of the jib to change the angle. Actually this is good practice as it means the jib is stored with no tension in the luff cloth. If you have powered up the backstay in strong winds, then ease it slightly before furling the jib. Top furlers being stiff is a well known problem. See what maintenance you can do . For some you can only flush them with water, whilst you can open some up and give them a squirt of silicone. (That is on my job list for tomorrow.) As others have said good pulleys and thinner dyneema sheets are a big help. We have kept ours with a pulley on the jib clew, so that makes it easy for my wife to sheet the jib. As others have said, you put a 3rd reef into the main to reduce the sail, rather than reefing the jib. The yachts are quite happy downwind with the jib completely furled. Here is how I set up a single line 3rd reefing system. https://www.myhanse.com/single-line-3rd-reefing-setup_topic10548_post96364.html?KW=reefing#96364%C2%A0
	Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland

Yoda Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commander Joined: 23 September 2022 Location: Devon, UK Status: Offline Points: 88	Post Options Post Reply Quote Yoda Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 April 2024 at 20:45
	While we had our mast down this winter we discovered that the jib sheet was wrapped (twisted) around an aerial cable that was clearly a retrofit and had not been fed down the conduits within the mast. This caused a lot of friction that has now been removed. Of course its a lot of expense just to look down inside a mast but fortunately I was changing the rigging anyway. Neil



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