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jib furler very very hard

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Bruno View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2015 at 15:54
I have the same problem on our 400 and have read the comments. You get a lot of friction caused by the sheet that twists between the block and the traveller.  I send someone at the mast to pull down the jib sheet, which releases the tension and to untwist the sheet at the block. I can then furl it manually. 

My explanation; the twist is created when winching the sheet around the drum. The turns on the sheet are transferred over it's length. Inverting the sheet or replacing it should postpone the effect, at least, I hope...
Bruno

Hanse 400, 2010 Hull 660, Canadian flag sailing Lake Champlain, VT USA
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iemand View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iemand Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2015 at 16:17
I also suggest the block on the selftacker with a fixed swifel (not turning) and a tapered dyneema sheet with 6mm pure Dyneema on 8-10mm Sheet behind the mast. That makes a big difference as well.
Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007
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Lippe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lippe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2015 at 20:25
Iemand. Can you explain more the " with 6mm pure Dyneema on 8-10mm Sheet behind the mast. "


Edited by Lippe - 22 September 2015 at 20:39
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StavrosNZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 February 2017 at 21:41
Old thread revived, 

further to the changes i made already noted in this thread i have also replaced the through factory through-deck block which had 40mm sheave with Selden version that has 57mm sheave. Means furling line has larger diameter sheave to bend around, this and the other upgrades means Selden TD furler can easily be furled by hand.



Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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harveymolly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harveymolly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 February 2017 at 06:03
I have read through your posts with interest and intend to make the changes which you suggested. Its been a few years since you last posted on this topic, I wondered if there were any updates.

We have had to have 2 repairs to our jib which could have been avoided if the jib was not such a pain to furl.
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Bruno View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 February 2017 at 15:31
Last summer I furled the jib from the through-deck point much more easily, concluding that I had a lot of resistance between the through-deck and cockpit.  I intend to replace the leading stanchion blocks by bearing ones to reduce friction. 
Bruno

Hanse 400, 2010 Hull 660, Canadian flag sailing Lake Champlain, VT USA
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StavrosNZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2019 at 06:36
Old thread updated, last and final amendment to get my Selden through deck furler smooth and furling by hand, align the under deck block perfectly with through deck block by using dyneema loops to get the block dead centre.

These are Ronstan 6mm x 120mm loops.










Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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