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Jib whisker pole length
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iemand View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 February 2004
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Points: 1099 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iemand Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2021 at 19:27
storing the boom is on our boat absolutely no problem. we store it in a bag along the main boom. completely out of the way and easy to handle. Not perfect but for us the best compromise since the deck stays clean and not too many things around the mast. Furthermore it is practically unvisible.
Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007
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silversailor View Drop Down
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Points: 1021 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote silversailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2021 at 22:21
Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

I'm going to build a "onepiece" one for my boat with these costs (total 120):

Aluminum anticorodal 6060T5 Tube 40mm *2mm , 3mt : 20 eu
 
2 Hooks Pfeiffer (SVB) : 68 eu
 
Plate on mast (I don't have one) : 34 eu 


If you are building one, why not use a carbon fiber tube?
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Points: 1021 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote silversailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2021 at 22:24
Originally posted by H8jer H8jer wrote:

Thx for all the inputs.

So next question - How far up the mast should the bracket/plate be placed? Normally a horizontal level pole would be preferred.
The bracket needs to be mounted before the mast is put back on. So I can't wait to do the real measurement.


There's a track on the face of my mast.I've attached a standard fitting that can be adjusted up/down the track to deal with different conditions, sails, etc.
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Points: 454 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cptgood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2021 at 08:38
H8jer wrote:Thx for all the inputs.
So next question - How far up the mast should the bracket/plate be placed? Normally a horizontal level pole would be preferred.
The bracket needs to be mounted before the mast is put back on. So I can't wait to do the real measurement.

Why not after the mast is put back on? 
Before installing the plate I would check the measures with the sail and whisker well set. Then drill the holes in the best position.
Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20
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Points: 454 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cptgood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2021 at 09:01
Originally posted by silversailor silversailor wrote:

Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

I'm going to build a "onepiece" one for my boat with these costs (total 120):

Aluminum anticorodal 6060T5 Tube 40mm *2mm , 3mt : 20 eu
 
2 Hooks Pfeiffer (SVB) : 68 eu
 
Plate on mast (I don't have one) : 34 eu 


If you are building one, why not use a carbon fiber tube?

Cost issues..I believe.
Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Points: 1503 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 April 2021 at 20:27
Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

Why not after the mast is put back on? 
Before installing the plate I would check the measures with the sail and whisker well set. Then drill the holes

I agree that the best option is to measure right height when the sail is up.
But here is also a very good example of why It is Better to doublecheck than to be sorry.
Got the Peiffer adjustable Wiskerpole. And also got a bracket for the mast.
This picture shows that the peiffer bracket is banned from being used on sparcraft mast. I've put the bracket inside the mast to show the problem. The bracket would have to be placed outside the mast ofcause...
Driling holes would cut cables and the rivets would obstruct pulling new cables.


Perhaps a Track  like SilverSailor has is the way to go. Then the rivets can be placed in the centerline


Edited by H8jer - 16 April 2021 at 20:34
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Points: 1503 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 07:21
Had the first sail with the new setup with the peiffer telescopic whiskerpole.

First I drilled 10x (5mm) holes in the mast for the 1 meter sheet-track (Size2) and used monel rivets to secure it.
The wagon is removable so it is only placed on the track right before the whisker pole is to be used. The corners of the sheet-track is cut/grinded down. All this should prevent the jib-sheet getting stuck on the track when tacking.






It works perfect!


Edited by H8jer - 25 May 2021 at 07:33
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Rock View Drop Down
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Points: 404 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 08:23
looks good !

The bottom locking point of the t-rail is at the same height as the boats safety rail?

Would you have put it higher, now that you tried it with the selftacker (I see your attachment point well above the booms gooseneck)?
I gues the clew of a Genoa would even be higher when pushed out some 90 degrees.
Taken into account the objective of a horizontal pole.

I just ordered the same material, pfeiffer size 3, also 1 meter.

Peter


Edited by Rock - 25 May 2021 at 15:59
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Points: 404 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2021 at 09:42
What are the opinions about 10 M6 bolts (5mm hole drilled then M6 thread cut into the sparcraft mast) with sunk heads vs. 10 6.4mm monel pop rivets?

Initially I wanted to go the rivet route, but the rivets don’t sit as nicely in the (sunk head) holes in the  t-rail. While I got myself a heavy duty hand riveter, the length of the head (that takes the nail of the rivet) doesn’t go all the way to the bottom of the whole of the top-rail, I.e don’t think I can push the rivet to sit flush.

Also would have to (slightly) drill out the 6 mm holes in the t-rail to take the 6.4mm rivets.

Then I thought, why not simply use bolts with sunk heads (threaded into the mast with anti seize paste), this is how the t-rail is meant (from what it appears, looking at the holes) to be fastened…

Cutting M6 threat into the mast, wall thickness sufficient ?

Opinions?
Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241
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Points: 1503 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2021 at 09:58
Originally posted by Rock Rock wrote:

While I got myself a heavy duty hand riveter, the length of the head (that takes the nail of the rivet) doesn’t go all the way to the bottom of the whole of the top-rail, I.e don’t think I can push the rivet to sit flush.
Opinions?

Hi Rock

If you put a loose 4mm nut on the rod of the rivet  before you insert it into the riveter - it is possible to get the rivet flush. This will extend the the 'range' of your hand riveter.
Monel rivets are very strong and I used this method with this riveter:



Edited by H8jer - 01 June 2021 at 10:01
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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