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tobo
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Joined: 01 February 2006 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Topic: keel repairPosted: 19 September 2012 at 11:29 |
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Ever wanted to see how the original 2.60m keel of a Hanse 470 is made like? Here's the pic. It is under repair, because a bloody stupid shipyard (Marina Punat, Croatia) which didn't dry out epoxy cracks long enough after a ground touch repair. If you ever run into such a repair situation make sure a) that the cracks are really widely openened and dried out for a long time (one month) and b) that it is repaired not only with filler. My insurance paid for the first repair but refuses (of course) to pay for the re-repair. Now try to sue a Croatian company for bad work; it's like telling a Swiss bank not to take untaxed money. (to be followed)
Edited by tobo - 19 September 2012 at 14:27 |
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Thomi
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alettaenmarcel
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Joined: 15 August 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1246 |
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Posted: 19 September 2012 at 11:41 |
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why are there opeings ( windows) in the keel, are those there to add more ballast?
And are all the Hanse keels like this?
gr marcel
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Kids Dingys 72-79 ,Several Windsurfboards 79-86 OK dingy competitions 86-92 , Trotter Pandora Race 92-98, Friendship 28 Sport 98-05, Hanse 370 06-......
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Brufan
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Joined: 16 December 2010 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 672 |
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Posted: 19 September 2012 at 12:05 |
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I think other recent Hanses have the same keel construction.
Openings are close with some kind of steel sheets and then epoxied. My keel sounds "empty" in the middle when I knock it with fingers. If I push hard the middle part flex a little. I thought It was a bit strange but now I know why... Thanks Tobo for sharing.
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Bruno
hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
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JonB
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Joined: 21 September 2010 Location: Cowes Status: Offline Points: 504 |
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Posted: 19 September 2012 at 12:12 |
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I think Hanse have 2 types of keel construction this one I believe is of the iron/lead type. Lead being in the bulb at the bottom & this is the iron frame, the 'windows' in the middle reduces production costs, ease of handling during both manufacture & fitting etc.
It is then finished off with the GRP we so lovingly anti-foul. I think the 2nd type is iron only |
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Jon B
470e http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk |
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sailkoop
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Joined: 02 September 2010 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 437 |
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Posted: 19 September 2012 at 17:28 |
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Hi Thomi,
thx for sharing this interesting pictures. Now you get the chance to shape the keel into a "performance" one. For your Information, you can order an add. shape of the keel by X-Yachts, for better racing conditions. Now you have it in your hand! ![]() br
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best regards
Bjoern |
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Peter-Blake
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 04 March 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2471 |
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Posted: 20 September 2012 at 12:07 |
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@ tobo,
what i do not understand. Were there cracks in the keel or in the hull? On the foto you sanded off all the colour from the keel, but the hull is still painted? |
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Blake 370
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JonB
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Joined: 21 September 2010 Location: Cowes Status: Offline Points: 504 |
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Posted: 20 September 2012 at 20:46 |
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Peter,
What the picture shows is the hull intact & the lead bulb (torpedo) & an area above it, also untouched. Tobo has removed the area that hadn't dried out properly and cracked following the repair from the Croatian marina and is letting it dry completely before re-applying the GRP to give him back the smooth finish we all are used to. So you won't see any cracks they've gone,
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Jon B
470e http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk |
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panos
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Joined: 02 March 2008 Status: Offline Points: 1939 |
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Posted: 21 September 2012 at 06:58 |
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@Jon B: if I understand good you are suggesting that Tobo is waiting until the iron part of the keel completely drys out so that he can laminate it. Doesn't make sense to me since the iron cannot get wet and doesn't absorb any water.
The only place where water could be trapped is the gap between the iron and lead parts of the keel. This gap could be dried out using a torch - you don't have to wait one month. Edited by panos - 21 September 2012 at 07:03 |
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Panos
Hanse 630e - selling her - |
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Brufan
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Joined: 16 December 2010 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 672 |
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Posted: 21 September 2012 at 07:48 |
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Panos,
I experienced this kind of issue with my former yacht. Cast iron absorbs water superficially. Not so much but enough to avoid epoxy coatings to cure good. As my yard said to me 20 years ago you should leave a sandblasted keel a least 1 or 2 months to dry (and rise it with fresh water) before applying epoxy coatings. If you don't make it dry then the epoxy layers will drop off within one or two years
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Bruno
hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
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superliga
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Joined: 25 April 2008 Location: Copenhagen Status: Offline Points: 590 |
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Posted: 21 September 2012 at 23:47 |
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I can add that the temperature of the iron and lead needs to be at recommended values and kept so for apr. 24 hours prior to applying and 24 - 48 hours after. Otherwise you risk moisture building from condense. When i have done iron keels i have sanded them before epoxy treatment to get the surface rust off.
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PEARL - S/Y SUPERLIGA - HANSE 470 e - Hull #168 - hanse470.com
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