Lewmar aluminium frames

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Hi Jon - The two fwd ones eg just behind the chain locker and the one just ahead of the mast. Currently only the one by the chain locker is leaking, the one ahead of the mast is showing signs of the powder coat failing, but isnt leaking yet.  The one aft of the mast is also showing very slight signs of the powder coating failing but again, isn't leaking. If I could fix the leak on the fwd one, I could live with it a bit until it eventually fails - this would make it easier to remove the powder coating at least ;-) but the anodizer was advising it's better to deal with it early becuase it's harder once corroision has set in. 
From reading these thhreads, and what I have gleaned, it looks like Lewmar made a bad choice to powder coat the frames, or didn't apply it correctly. I guess there are lots of opportunities for the coating to fail with all the screw holes. 

Matt

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Matt1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 727	Post Options Post Reply Quote Matt1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 February 2022 at 19:34
	Hi Jon - The two fwd ones eg just behind the chain locker and the one just ahead of the mast. Currently only the one by the chain locker is leaking, the one ahead of the mast is showing signs of the powder coat failing, but isnt leaking yet. The one aft of the mast is also showing very slight signs of the powder coating failing but again, isn't leaking. If I could fix the leak on the fwd one, I could live with it a bit until it eventually fails - this would make it easier to remove the powder coating at least ;-) but the anodizer was advising it's better to deal with it early becuase it's harder once corroision has set in. From reading these thhreads, and what I have gleaned, it looks like Lewmar made a bad choice to powder coat the frames, or didn't apply it correctly. I guess there are lots of opportunities for the coating to fail with all the screw holes. Matt
	Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK

Tranquillity Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 01 December 2018 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 267	Post Options Post Reply Quote Tranquillity Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 February 2022 at 20:12
	Matt, Sorry to hear. Not a problem we have seen but will double check. I always cover rubber seals in silicone every season to help seal and prevents sticking, not sure if helps? Good luck in resolution. Jon

Matt1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 727	Post Options Post Reply Quote Matt1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 April 2022 at 20:02
	Quick update on this - turns out that Lewmar do supply the frames in an anodised finish so it’s obviously Hanse’s choice to spec the problematic white finish. The anodised finish (which is clearly much more robust) is the same price, or in the bigger sizes slightly cheaper. I’ve removed my fwd one and replaced it with a new anodised frame. The old white one had corroded underneath and there was clear evidence of where the water was getting in. The replacement won’t have that issue so hopefully no more leaks!
	Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK

Breathe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commander Joined: 17 July 2018 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 146	Post Options Post Reply Quote Breathe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 April 2022 at 00:48
	I have this problem on all the hatches on Breathe, found the problem at about 3.5 years old. The corrosion is worst on the hatch near the anchor well, and least on the one above the saloon. I decided that anodising the original frames was so difficult so have ordered new anodised frames direct from Lewmar. I plan on chancing out over a couple of years to spread the expense. Edited by Breathe - 18 April 2022 at 00:55

Matt1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 727	Post Options Post Reply Quote Matt1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 April 2022 at 07:00
	Hi Gordon - same here; worst on the most fwd one and progressively less corroded as you move aft. I’ve bought a replacement frame for the other one in the forecabin too but will replace that when it gets worse (despite the fwd one losing its adhesion at the corner it was still very hard to get out because the rest of the frame was well bonded still)
	Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK

Breathe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commander Joined: 17 July 2018 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 146	Post Options Post Reply Quote Breathe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 April 2022 at 09:20
	Hi Matt, I assume that you are replacing the frames only, and keeping the glass, handles etc? Any difficulties in moving those fittings to the new frames? Gordon

Wild Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vice Admiral Joined: 18 March 2010 Location: Turkey-Greece Status: Offline Points: 937	Post Options Post Reply Quote Wild Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 April 2022 at 10:19
	Hey Matt Where can I find the parts numbers for the anodized replacement frames for Lewmar flush hatches? Prices?
	Wild and Wet Belgium 545e#268

Matt1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 727	Post Options Post Reply Quote Matt1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 April 2022 at 21:18
	Hi - I only have details for the size 60 and size 70 60 in anodised is part # 361821990 and was £97 GBP before tax 70 in anodised is part # 361822990 and was £157 GBP before tax But note that my UK dealer needed quite a few pictures of the hatch in order to correctly identify the exact frame so I’d recommend checking the above part numbers for your specific hatches
	Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK

Matt1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 727	Post Options Post Reply Quote Matt1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 April 2022 at 21:21
	Hi Gordon, yes I swapped the acrylic over which was easy. The frame came with new support struts and they were easy to fit too. It was very simple ……except for removing the frame! I also sourced some screws with a much less aggressive pitch (?) so the frames should be held in better to the deck mechanically - as well as the Sikaflex
	Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK

Richard Hall Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Sub Lieutenant Joined: 02 January 2018 Location: Malta Status: Offline Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote Richard Hall Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 June 2022 at 13:56
	My 2015 455 has corrosion on the hatch frames as others have had. This has resulted in leaks on two of the main cabin hatches. The frames are powder coated and unsurprisingly in conditions in the central Mediterranean over time the coating has failed. It has tended to fail in the areas where water pools after the boat is washed or it rains. To prolong yours dry these areas out after making port, rain and washing. The frames are available and to be honest having had some cleaned up and hard anodized the cost differential of refurbishment versus buying new anodized ones from Lewmar is negligible (60 x 60 frames are £112 each with plastic hinge attachment and new seal). They fit in an overhead aircraft bin even in their shipping box or you can wear them as an interesting piece of jewelry depending on how customs feel on the day. The powder coating was specified by Hanse not Lewmar as an aesthetic. However, I went with silver anodised replacements. A quick walk round boats that are from a generation before will show up the fact that their older surrounds and frames have lasted better than powder coated ones. Anyone who's owned a TVR sports car will know powder coating does not last forever - salt water, 40C sunshine etc... are as effective as road salt, rain, etc... at exposing the underlying frame to corrosion even if acid etch primed - the cost of the repair however, is a couple of orders of magnitude less!! Removing is straight forward. I used thin flexible plaster scrappers - there should be some in the Hanse spares box. Remove the screws push under and break the sealant and gently pull up. Any noise that sounds like tearing is just the powder coating and sealant coming away from the frame. Use the scrappers and some acetone to clean the surface. I resealed with 3M 3200 Marine Silicone in case I have to take them out again - the screws should provide enough mechanical fastening strength (they aren't a structural element). Masking tape prevents sealant over run on the inner and external fibre glass. Given that I was quoted €800 to fit and another €900 for 2 complete new hatches. I elected to do this myself - quite where they got the labour charge from I'm not sure as each hatch only took a couple of hours from start to finish. One final thing to remember is to grease the stainless bolt on the hinge. Several of mine had seized and had to be cut and drilled out. (Only an issue if you intend to recycle).



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