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H8jer View Drop Down
Admiral
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 June 2020 at 22:50
Today we were out testing the Sterling AB12130 Pro Alt C.

I only saw 33 amps when charging halffull batteries.

But the Alternator got really hot.
33 amps is only a bit more than half of it's rating.
15 minutes after power off it was still 86 degrees Celcius.



How hot should an Alternator get? Is it about to fail?

UPDATE
Looks like Balmar Alternators cut off at 109 degrees celcius.
So This is very much near the limit.
From other forums is looks like it also could be due to wrong belt tension. I also noticed a Warm Rubber smell in the beginning. Another reason could be the cabling.
My alternator is a LR160-741, but there was an option for an 80 amps version LR180-03C.The 80' version have fan-blades outside the housing.

I consider to upgrade to the 80 amps alternator but I will look at the belt-tension first.

/H8jer



Edited by H8jer - 24 June 2020 at 08:20
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Forth2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2020 at 20:54
I recommend getting the 125 A alternator from Yanmar.

It is a very easy install. It is the alternator with which new 3YM  engines can be purchased.
It comes with a wider grooved belt that can transfer more mechanical energy without wearing out like the V-belts do.
As a bonus I got new grooved wheels that replace the worn, slightly corroded V-belt wheels.

I just installed mine last week. It gave out 60+ Amps  at some point of in the beginning of the charge. I have not checked it out fully yet.




Edited by Forth2 - 25 June 2020 at 05:16
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2020 at 22:36
Where did you buy the 125A alternator kit with new belt and pulleys? Price?
Jesper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Forth2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2020 at 05:25
I got the alternator upgrade kit  from a Finnish diesel service company.

The kit is just a collection of original Yanmar spare parts that they were selling as an upgrade kit for 700 €. They also provided the copies of the appropriate service manual pages.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2020 at 07:36
With the new 125A - do you then have to get a bigger cable from the alternator? I cant remember but the cable looked like only 25mm2 or less.
Even the 15hp has this new 125A. This looks like a good idea, but I think this upgrade is too big a project so close to our holidays.

A good quality 80 Amp is only 150 Euro and will be a drop-in replacement. I will take one along as a spare.

/H8jer



Edited by H8jer - 25 June 2020 at 10:01
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Forth2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2020 at 10:15
I needed to change the short + cable between the alternator and the start engine.
The diameter of the screw is larger (8 vs. 5 mm) on the 125 A alternator.
I used a ready made battery cable from biltema.

The cables to the batteries are the red and black starter cables in my installation. They are quite thick. I guess 50 mm2.

There is also a thinner orange cable between the engine and battery box which is not used. I suppose it was put there for some charging purposes.

Also to L and W cables need be extended with a different connector.

I think taking high currents from an alternator using just one V-belt will lead to more  belt maintenance.


Edited by Forth2 - 25 June 2020 at 10:17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2020 at 10:31
50mm2 makes sense.

In my setup the Orange cable is used and it goes straight to the charge splitter.
There must also be a thick cable for the starter.

Your 50mm2 goes through the Engine Manual Switch Key?

Perhaps I can join the starter and alternator like you and at the batteries I can make a new wire from the Engine Manual Switch Key.

I asked my local Yanmar Pusher for a quote for a similar 125A upgrade kit

But I am running out of time for doing all this upgrading.
I will need to KISS until the holidays...



Edited by H8jer - 25 June 2020 at 10:34
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Forth2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2020 at 11:12
The 50 mm2 cable goes through the big master power switch.

I understand now that in case you have a charge splitter, you need the separate orange cable for the charging.

Using the starter cables, these will directly charge the starter battery.
Then you need a "VSR" to charge the LFP, as mentioned in earlier posts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2020 at 12:42
Just had some minutes to go the boat and back.

The Alternator only has the Orange cable and the IG and a connector with 2 small wires in a connector. 
The Belt Tension is WAY off, more like 20mm-30mm-ish than 10mm required. The belt is only about 1 year old but filled with rubber powder. I thought it would have been possible to hear it slipping, but no.
It looks like the Sterling is really making the Alternator work for it...

The minus (blue) from the engine to the bus-bar is 95mm2. The positive to the starter (black -why don't they use red) looks to be similar size.

I like the Idea of not using a relay that makes an direct connection between the Starter battery and the House batteries.
So if I make a new 25mm2 to join the Orange 25mm2 to get 50mm2 - it is possible to keep the setup with the splitter.

During the weekend I will try and sort the heat-issue. I am thinking of a custom "Belt cover" with more ventilation holes and perhaps a computer fan to blow more air into the alternator. The old batteries are kept not fully charged so I can pull max amps from the Alternator. So this heat-issue is major priority and needs to be solved. After this the lifepo4 batteries can be installed.


Edited by H8jer - 25 June 2020 at 12:51
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2020 at 17:14
Originally posted by jeb jeb wrote:

The sterling ab1280 cut at 70deg. You will reach that temperature in about 20min. If you insist using this device I would skip the temp sensor on the alternator. That was suggested to me by mr Sterling himself. But you will still get a loss of 8-10 amps in the ab1280.
Jesper


Hi Jesper
I don't understand that the Sterling results in a loss? I see much higher output than without stock setup.
I don't have the temp sensor, but consider to get one, but perhaps combinding it with a potential-ohmmeter (dont know the english word in danish it is pot-meter aka an adjusteble resistor) so it will be posssible to adjust the cut-off temp myselves.

If I get the 125A alternator the splitter might also need an upgrade as I don't know if it is the 100A or 150A version. Sterling has some splitters https://sterling-power.com/products/volt-drop-alternator-splitting-system-pro-split-r
I installed one in our old Hanse 311 and found it to be a good product. But from your and forth2 comments, it looks like Sterling is perhaps not a frontline company on lifepo4 matters. Perhaps it is possible to consider an other brand?



Edited by H8jer - 25 June 2020 at 17:27
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