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Lithium batteries |
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Mike2145
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Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 278 |
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Posted: 08 June 2024 at 09:38 |
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Hope this may be of use to someone.
There is another thread detailing my Lithium replacement but here is some data that may be interesting to those upgrading. We have the boat in Greece so sun availability is pretty good. We have two fridges and overnight these consume between 50 and 75Ah depending on ambient temperature. Three fairly old 100w solar panels and these produce between 1 and 1.75Kwh (approx 80-150Ah) depending on time of year. With minimal anchoring and mooring the engine use tops up any short fall. We have 300Ah total and have yet to get below 20% charge. Another question that was raised was the maximum discharge current. The BMS will limit this but the cells themselves will, apparently, tolerate 1c discharge rate. In our case that is 300A. More than enough for most uses, not sure I’d want to run at that current for an extended period. We have a lead bow thruster battery so only the windlass and winches are on the lithium. Mike |
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Cant take a joke, don't buy a boat.
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Issywa
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Joined: 13 April 2022 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 143 |
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Posted: 24 September 2024 at 07:08 |
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I'm curious what BMS you guys are using to accomodate the 300 amp draw?
I've been considering a REC but am still contemplating other devices. |
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Ian Coverdale
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Joined: 19 June 2019 Location: Travelling Status: Offline Points: 311 |
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Posted: 24 September 2024 at 10:20 |
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Been using REC-ABMS 'Victron' version for three years.
Essential to me that charge and load controlled separately with proper hard-wired alarm for a low cell voltage. We've previously had electrics fail at night while on passage ... and it's not a great place to be!
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Ian & Andrea
SV Gabrielle (H445) Liveaboards - currently Montenegro. www.facebook.com/sailinggabrielle |
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Mike2145
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Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 278 |
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Posted: 24 September 2024 at 11:23 |
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Hi I have used the Smart BMS JK-B2A8S20P with Active Balancer 200A Absolutely no issues and the configuration options are excellent. I've been monitoring several forums for 'off grid' solar and this BMS seems to be popular with very few issues. I've never come anywhere close to the 200A limit and if you do my guess would be a momentary draw, stalled windlass for example, and the config allows for a specific time to be set for these excesses and a wait time for the reset. Happy to answer any question about the BMS.
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Cant take a joke, don't buy a boat.
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Jojo
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Joined: 03 August 2022 Location: liljeholmen swe Status: Offline Points: 166 |
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Posted: 24 September 2024 at 14:47 |
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Hi
My configuration allows starting engine at the batterybank (no extra start battery) To my sceptical being I am now convinced that my system is really good I have a setup that only charges to 85% full in reality it’s close to 92% full due the chargepaten that my victron solar charger has I have the fridge on whole summer in Sweden On each side I have a 110w solar panel wired in parallel to same regulator both panels And a 50w on deck with it’s own solar regulator It’s now at its fourth year cycle still working flawlessly During summer I only use the engine for moving the boat not charging Still autopilot and electric running at same battery bank To date never got lower than 60% of full Today I visited the boat and took some photos ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by Jojo - 24 September 2024 at 15:18 |
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3 Cabin, Hanse 342, Deep draft, Tiller version.
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Issywa
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Joined: 13 April 2022 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 143 |
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Posted: 23 October 2024 at 05:31 |
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How have you integrated your Smart BMS JK-B2A8S20P with other charging sources (ie alternator and solar)?
Does your BMS communicate with your other sources such that they stop charging when you reach your desired voltage? |
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Jojo
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Joined: 03 August 2022 Location: liljeholmen swe Status: Offline Points: 166 |
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Posted: 23 October 2024 at 12:35 |
No it’s not integrated the alternator is still setup for led battery That gives me a system that’s not charging the lithium batteries to full and not engaging the alternator when the batteries are over ca 80% The BMS limits has up today never been reached As to the solar regulator I have a slight lower max voltage than standard setup As winter is currently coming I have cut the main svisch and let it be at near 90% all winter and suspended the solar regulator in the menu (Bluetooth) In the spring I svisch on the main and enable the solar that’s all I guess this is the simplest way running lithium and maybe not the best but it works well enough for us Normally the battery is fully charged before noon no matter how low it goes at every evening whiteout starting the engine So my solar panels and regulator is working perfectly for my setup Regarding my alternator it’s temperature regulated And I don’t run my motor in idle to charge I just use it in and out of harbour What I noticed is more belt wear than running Led battery but it’s not that much of an issue Regards jonas PS batteries are sold branded LIME but they are Winston cells Edited by Jojo - 23 October 2024 at 14:30 |
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3 Cabin, Hanse 342, Deep draft, Tiller version.
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Issywa
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Joined: 13 April 2022 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 143 |
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Posted: 23 October 2024 at 15:43 |
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Interesting as your system seems simple which seems contrary to the recommendations that one needs a full suite of “electronics wrapped in blue boxes” to control an lfp battery bank.
Can you elaborate on your alternator and how it’s regulated? Does it monitor voltage output etc? I’m located in Puget Sound and it’s not uncommon for me to motor for a day to get to my destination - so I am wondering about overcharging. And the thing about lfp‘s frying the alternator. Also curious what you use to charge when on shore power. Sounds like you might not need this as your solar does this for you? My boat spends too much time on the dock and it has an older Magnum inverter/charger that I’m told is not compatible for charging lfp. I have thought about charging lfp with a cheaper (say 20 amp) unit that is capable of this. Thanks, PS before every one starts badgering me about 1. motoring - the Sound can have really light winds combined with 2 or 3+ knots of current means a really long sail to get anywhere, and 2. dock time - hoping that will change in a couple years when my wife retires although boats seem to require monetary feeding…. |
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marsella
Rear Admiral
Joined: 21 June 2022 Location: Antigua Jolly H Status: Offline Points: 592 |
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Posted: 23 October 2024 at 16:07 |
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I went with all victron setup and have been using Victron Lynx Smart BMS which is rated at 500Amps, pretty much max that you can get out of the 12V system with the wiring as currently installed. Its paired with CerboGX via ethernet cable, therefore provides monitoring of the whole system both onsite and remotely.
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Jojo
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Joined: 03 August 2022 Location: liljeholmen swe Status: Offline Points: 166 |
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Posted: 23 October 2024 at 17:52 |
Yes this is simple As my normal sailing is in Sweden’s arhepelage and seldom at marina I values that the need for additional charge is low During long day sailing instruments and autopilot work fine whiteout need for engine power to charge extra Fridge is ASU only modifications is a extra diod in serie at + to the ASU module (this keeps it from running at max cooling al time) If motoring for a night the voltage drops to 13,8 at the monitor to 13,9 from alternator only So the solar panels is what tops it up We have a dimmer on the lights in the boat (all LED) And charge mobiles and a modern laptop But that’s all
The charger is Victron bluesmart 12/30/1 Setup lithium standard program Alternator It´s a 125A Valeo altenator, there is a overheating protection built in thats will turn it of if overheated. Max 14,4 V at 20 degrees Celsius standard regulator for led battery Edited by Jojo - 23 October 2024 at 18:24 |
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3 Cabin, Hanse 342, Deep draft, Tiller version.
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