| |
| Welcome to myHanse.com the forum for Hanse Yachts owners throughout the world. | |
New Jib |
Post Reply
|
Page 123> |
| Author | |
Swanji
Captain
Joined: 28 March 2012 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 348 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Topic: New JibPosted: 09 September 2012 at 16:01 |
|
Hi all
We have decided to replace our current jib - North standard issue - next season. Since we are cruisers looking to go fast, we are planning to stick with the self tacking jiib. I have got quotes from North in Cape Town for the Norlam, radian and standard Dacron cloth. The current thinking is to go for either the Norlam or the radian cut Dacron and to have vertical battens fitted. Also the quotes have been for Jibs around the 27m2 mark. We are looking to increase this to the 29.6 m2 spec as per the boats specifications. Anyone have any thoughts on this in terms of size, material, battens, full cut, fathead etc etc? |
|
|
Onwards and upwards
Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop |
|
![]() |
|
Markku
Commander
Joined: 28 November 2009 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 110 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 September 2012 at 21:00 |
|
In our 371 we have new sails from North. The main is Radian Dacron partially radial cut, full batten and the jib is 105% polyester laminate, full radial cut. I like more the jib as it keeps its shape very well in winds exceeding 16 knots helping to keep boat's stability. The radian main is ok, but experience with the jib makes me think would it be better to have the main also made of laminate. In my case the price difference with the main was about 25%, and surely if you purchased both at the same time it's a lot of money.
With the jib I made a compromise with the self-tacking and have tacked the whole season. The sail can still be used as self-tacking sail by furling the sail in, but obviously it suffers a bit as all furled sails do. The 105% jib is large enough to maintain relatively good speed in light winds, so I gave up genoa. I would say buy the best sails you can get if money isn't an issue, but generally it's depending on what's your need from the sails. Markku
|
|
|
S/Y Flow
Hanse 371 |
|
![]() |
|
Swanji
Captain
Joined: 28 March 2012 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 348 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 September 2012 at 21:30 |
|
Hi Markku
Thanks for your input. I am interested to hear that you were able to go up to 105% on the jib and still were able to use the self tacker. Does your jib have vertical battens? Is it shaped in any special way for example with a fuller or flatter shape or with a bigger head? Are you in an area where mildew is a problem? One of the problems I have heard with Norlam is that it is not as resistant to mildew as the Dacron although I don't know how true this is. Many thanks |
|
|
Onwards and upwards
Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop |
|
![]() |
|
Markku
Commander
Joined: 28 November 2009 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 110 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 September 2012 at 19:30 |
|
You are right, the sail has vertical battens to give a bigger head. It was also dimensioned and cut according to the exact location of the self-tacking bar and other rig dimensions on the boat to ensure a good fit. Sail dimension is 33m2, whereas a standard st-jib is 27m2, when the sail is furled in to self-tacking size it's reduced to 24m2. And when furled in, the head suffers a bit as always, but we can live with that. The jib is so easy to tack over, that there is no need to use self-tacking.
In Finland many boats have laminate (also Norlam) sails, but only few suffer mildew problems. In my previous boat I had five years a polyester laminate genoa which was excellent in terms of shape and fast sailing, but no problems with mildew. I have to check if there's a photo of the jib. Markku
|
|
|
S/Y Flow
Hanse 371 |
|
![]() |
|
Swanji
Captain
Joined: 28 March 2012 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 348 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 September 2012 at 11:22 |
|
Hi Markku
That is really helpful. Thanks a lot. Please will you send me an image of the jib if you can. I have never seen a jib with vertical battens. |
|
|
Onwards and upwards
Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop |
|
![]() |
|
Perttu
Captain
Joined: 13 October 2006 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 243 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 September 2012 at 19:59 |
|
Hello,
I am also potentially looking to replace original North Sails ST-jib on my 355. I am having problems trimming the sail especially when tacking with winds more than 14-16 knts true. Top part of the sail just does not shape as it should but becomes very round (due to tight or very tight halyard...) - eg top windward tell tales point straight into the sky - and the entire sail also flutters very easily when penetrating the waves. Last winter I had 3 vertical battens installed - they improved the overall situation slightly but certaily did not fix it. I believe this type of high aspect sail needs quality radial cut laminate (exactly right size too) to maintain shape and avoid excessive heeling. Eg North Sails are recommending replacement with Radial Dacron which is likely quality cloth but not optimal for this sail. I will likely go for good quality cruising laminate with my purchase. To increase the sail area in 355 is not my primary objective but really to have a ST-jib which maximises the upwind performance and comfort with stronger winds as well... Edited by Perttu - 14 September 2012 at 20:00 |
|
![]() |
|
Swanji
Captain
Joined: 28 March 2012 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 348 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 September 2012 at 07:24 |
|
Hello Perttu
Thanks for sharing. Your and Markku's experience is definitively pointing us to the cruising laminate side. It sounds as if we should be getting vertical battens as well. The real decision will be whether to go for a 105% genoa which when slightly furled can be used on the self tacker. The difference in size is quite a lot when compared to the standard jib. With the 105% genoa, I imagine that you would need to make use of genoa cars on the genoa traveller. Any ideas which ones to go for? I personally like the ones you can adjust from the cockpit but maybe with this size of genoa, adjusting them will be less important? |
|
|
Onwards and upwards
Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop |
|
![]() |
|
Flemming_M
Lieutenant
Joined: 23 November 2009 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 49 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 September 2012 at 08:22 |
|
I got a new North selftalking Jib this summer. The sailmaker from North was on board an have taking measurements. North sails calling the sail: Polyester Radian NDR 7.5 from there Maratonserie 200 . There area is increased, and the best is, that the sail is very easy too trim and the saling balance is must better. It have been a very good decision.
|
|
|
Flemming M
Hanse 350/DEN233 |
|
![]() |
|
Markku
Commander
Joined: 28 November 2009 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 110 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 September 2012 at 17:44 |
|
As for the clarification I took few photos of the jib I mentioned. In full size it's 105% (33m2) and when furled it can be sheeted as self tailing (~24m2).
Tested and works quite well. Naturally for 105% jib you need to have sheets in front part of the side deck or on the cabin roof like some Hanse sailors have done.
I can also use inhaulers with the jib when needed to point higher.
Jib 105% upper part Jib 105% lower part
Jib st, upper part
Jib st, lower part
Jib sheet on the deck
Markku
|
|
|
S/Y Flow
Hanse 371 |
|
![]() |
|
Swanji
Captain
Joined: 28 March 2012 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 348 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 September 2012 at 21:06 |
|
Hi all
It seems that the self tacker' s ease of use comes at a price - poor performance in light winds - poor performance downwind- hence the need for barber haulers and various other variations - difficulty in controlling the leech - hence the need for laminate and vertical battens On the other hand it does perform well in stronger winds going into the wind or in winds up to around 130% So based on the feedback received thus far, it seems that if your sailing ground doesn't require a huge amount of tacking, then it may make sense to go for a conventional genoa with sheets led back to the genoa winches via the genoa tracks. If one opts for a standard genoa, then there may no longer be a requirement for vertical battens either. Is it correct to assume that a 105% genoa is sheeted inside of the shrouds? This seems to be the case judging from the images posted. Is one able to stretch this to say 110%? I seem to recall another thread saying that the sheeting angle on a genoa of 120% can only be optimised by mounting genoa tracks on the coach roof. |
|
|
Onwards and upwards
Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop |
|
![]() |
|
Post Reply
|
Page 123> |
| Tweet |
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
|
Links : www.hanseyachts.co.uk www.hanseyachts.com www.fjordboats.co.uk www.dehler.co.uk www.varianta.co.uk |