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Captain Cook ![]() Vice Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 875 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 20 January 2018 at 14:55 |
The old topic "Seacocks" is already discussed in detail, a search just now gave 100 results. In the old subjects you can find members who stubbornly claims, that at least their seacocks were made of bronze, and then after a test must admit that the yellow material is brass. Hanse werft has maybe not been completely honest with the owners who by telephone have been assured, that the thru-hulls and seacocks were made of bronze.
Later inquiries have earned an answer, that the material was DZR-brass, by some called "marine grade" brass. Brass is made by copper and zink, and the DZR has been added other metals to slow down the detoriation. The DZR was chosen because it is cheaper than bronze or Trudesign. In the pictures below you can see my old thru-hulls, which when replaced after seven years in 2013, still had a pretty good look. Notice the red ring in the yellow brass, where detoriation has started. My old ball-valves marked DN20 (Diametre Nominal), were the type your plumber mounts in your house (plain chrome-plated brass I suppose). Those were in my boat a bit rusty in the handles but otherwise seemed OK. My decision to change the seacocks came after the horror stories in 2012-13, where several boats from many different shipyards had unwanted fountains in their boats. The change from DZR to bronze or Trudesign is not that costly, so the Hanse-owners with a 8-12 years old ship should maybe change the seacock/thru-hulls now? If not, I advise to buy wooden plugs to place near the "fountain-to-be". This is not an attempt of mouth-to-mouth rescue of the old tread, but basicly an friendly advice to the owners of old Hanses, which still have not changed their thru-hulls. Regards Kjeld Edited by Captain Cook - 24 February 2021 at 11:04 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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StavrosNZ ![]() Rear Admiral ![]() Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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Good move, i replaced all of mine on my 2010 400 a few years back and posted the process on the forum, its real piece of mind to know none of the DZR brass remains below the waterline.
The irony is that Trudesign fittings are cheaper than Brass particularly in the volumes Hanse would buy. Hanse now fit Trudesign skin fittings on all new boats but then fit DZR brass ball valves and tails to these. Hopefully at some stage they will go the whole hog and fit the full synthetic package, i as a prospective buyer would see this very favorably over other brands still using Brass.
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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Sea-U ![]() Commadore ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 September 2012 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 459 |
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I too changed all 2 years ago. I did not like the Trudesign 90 degree bend (in middle of picture). It was of a small inner diameter.
I then bought a stainless steel bend. I have now learned that this was a big mistake. Stainless steel can be worse than brass. Have just received a bronse 90 degree bend for the black water. Hope I can change... or I might need to buy new seacock too. |
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Captain Cook ![]() Vice Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 875 |
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At the internet you can google hundreds of posts about corrosion of seacocks. The Danish Sailing Association homepage (http://www.sejlsport.dk/baadejer/praktisk-viden/skrog/skroggennemfoeringer/korrosion-i-skroggennemfoeringer) complains about EEC-directive 94/25EC, and links to a report from Piet Jansen, FORCE Technology (published 2004!)in danish. I will summarize some of his conclusions here.
Bronze (CC491-CuSn5Zn5Pb5=85%Cu,5%Sn,5%Pb) is corrosion safe in molded parts. MS58 Brass (CW612N-CuZn39Pb2=59%Cu,39%Zn,1-2%Pb) is not corrossion safe. (Prone to de-zinkification, vulnerable to strain-corrosion in salt water). Special Brass (DNZ) (CW602N-CuZn36Pb2As=62%Cu,36%Zn,2%Pb,<1%As) is fairly corrosion safe. It is vulnerable to strain corrosion. Stainless steel AISI304 (A2) is not recommended. Stainless steel AISI316 (A4) is better than MS58, but in 2-5 years come pitting and fissure corrosion. Stainless steel SS254 is okay, but very expensive. Jansen tells that a reddish colour in the yellow brass is a symptom of de-zinkification. I just now discovered, that 94/25/EC is repealed, and instead as of January 18, 2016 a new directive 2013/53/EU is in force. 65 pages to study for the Hanse owner. I just skimmed the directive for any mention of seacocks, but I found no such thing. Edited by Captain Cook - 24 January 2018 at 13:06 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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iemand ![]() Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 February 2004 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 1074 |
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I'm planning to change to true design on my 370 as well. What have you done on the SD50? TD is still missing a double nipple....
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Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007
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Sea-U ![]() Commadore ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 September 2012 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 459 |
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When I changed mine 2 years ago, the piece that is in the hose was totally gone. The hose almost fell of by itself. I was just lucky ... and the boat is from 2008.
The other parts were reddish halfway through. So iemand !!! You should start to be worried!
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StavrosNZ ![]() Rear Admiral ![]() Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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yes i did the valve on SD50 as well including glass filled nylon male to male to connect the ball valve to the saildrive. 4 years no problems, see mt earlier posts:
http://www.myhanse.com/sd20-saildrive_topic9673_page2.html |
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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StavrosNZ ![]() Rear Admiral ![]() Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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used glass filled nylon male to male made by hansen, see www.hansenproducts.co.nz, used Sika 291 on both threads fitted when cold.
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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Rubato ![]() Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1791 |
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I know very little about the TruDesign product and the material it is made out of. Is there a greater chance of getting cracking from water freezing in cold weather versus a metal part? The basin where the boat is moored is fed by a fresh water creek making the top layer much much less salty and it freezes easily in the winter.
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Steve
Hanse 400e, #168 |
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Captain Cook ![]() Vice Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 875 |
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Nippel in bronze from http://tempobaadudstyr.dk
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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