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New seacocks/thru-hulls

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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 February 2024 at 12:17
I changed to a ball valve on my SD50 and regard it as a very important upgrade.  The valve is accessed quite easily through the engine hatch in the port cabin without engine heat being an issue.  However, I would never consider automating such thing as a seacock on an H400; I need to know if they are open or shut and the only way to know this with certainty is by manual operation.  Automation introduces more complexity and potential points of failure on safety-critical items and on a H400 I can't see the gain. Sorry!
H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard' Gosport, UK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mark_J1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 February 2024 at 21:10
My ‘automation’ solution is to fit a wing nut socket to a power screwdriver (torque setting needs to be about midway). Works a treat for opening & closing the gate valve seacock’s T-handle. I set out to replace the gate valve 10yrs back (after buying the boat with it seized), but instead cleaned up the internal thread with the right size tap & regreased. It’s worked ever since. Just needs exercising regularly. Hence the power drill ‘support’. I open and close it each trip. 

Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gblaughlans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2024 at 18:52
TRU Design offer a fully monitored solution using position sensors on each valve, it wouldnt be a big step to create a 'one close' for all valves...
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asimo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asimo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 February 2025 at 02:14
Stavros, 
Im about to deal with the SD 50 raw water valve.  
Ive noted your solution - and I have one query. 
Im looking for a male to male nipple. The SD50 has a 1" tapered, female BSP thread.  The true design has a 1" parallel, female BSP thread.  So ideally it needs a 1" BSPT to 1"BSPP nipple. truesdesign dont have any of these.  Im wondering how you dealt with this in your application. 

Regards, 
Alex. 
H400e - DE HANJ0344K708
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landlocked View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote landlocked Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 February 2025 at 03:07
Hi Alex,

I can’t answer your question but just want to let you know that I replaced my SD50 valve with the part for the SD60.   The threads are the same but the SD60 valve is a ball joint instead of a gate valve.   It has worked out fine and was reasonably priced.
"Kerkyra" 400e #042
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asimo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asimo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 February 2025 at 22:56
Landlocked,  Thank you for sharing.  

Ive priced the SD60 stopcock here in Australia.  It is $600 AUD, about $550CAD. 
The SD50 stopcock was quoted at $1,100 AUD.  
This is Yanmars pricing.  Lube not included!!

To give you an idea, 1" Vetus bronze valve sells for around $100AUD

I dont need it yet, I was looking to do preventative maintenance. Ill keep exploring options. 

BTW, I thank you for the Kerkyra 400 manual published here. Lovely boat.  And great reference manual.  Im new to boat so I found it very helpful. 
Alex. 



Edited by asimo - 01 February 2025 at 22:58
H400e - DE HANJ0344K708
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asimo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asimo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 February 2025 at 23:08
DJ, 
Im battling through the alternatives for the $1,100 aud, Yanmar SD50 stopcock.  
I read your post and i just need to repeat it so i can make sure i have it right. 

1. buy a 1" BSPT male/male bronze nipple. 
2. buy a true design ball balve, 1" BSPP female
3. screw the BSPT nipple into the sail drive, using thread sealant. 
4. screw the BSPP female true design ball valve onto the other end of the 1" BSPT nipple, using thread sealant.  Im a little concerned that there may not be not enough mechanical holding power when joining BSPT into BSPP.  Ive not physically tried it. Is this an issue for the stopcock application? 

Alex
H400e - DE HANJ0344K708
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Yeoey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 February 2025 at 02:54
Alex
My original SS rw valve was a different type of metal than the original through hull fittings and in good condition
However the Volvo service guy replaced it with a bronze fitting that was readily available at the nearby chandlery- cost less than $20- I would not install a composite fitting in that spot myself notwithstanding the quality of Thruhull which I have elsewhere
Peter 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BamBam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 February 2025 at 05:23
Hello. 

I will be replacing my thru-hulls this spring. 
Are there any problems with the epoxy versions, that the hull might be too thin for the new thru-hulls and that they might need to be lined with a GRP plate, for example?

Thx in advance
BamBam, 400e
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Stormsvalen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 February 2025 at 09:51
Hi, 

We have Truedesign all over on our 400e - no reinforcements and no problemsSmile

'Stormsvalen' Hanse 400e DEN 167
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