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Reduce compressor running time with up to 50%

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skipper View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 August 2013 at 05:28
Originally posted by H8jer H8jer wrote:

 
can you then stay at almost 100 % if you got a solar-panel? what do you think?
 
 
Not sure if I understand your question perfectly, we have a 75 W solarpanel fixed on the "garageroof" and in the home port did I manage to empty the battery bank when I forgot the fridge on.
Not sure if the shadow of the mast and boom prevented the sunbeams to hit the solarpanel.
 
When laying still in the archipelago with crew moving the boom to let the sun hit the solarpanel do we have energy enough for fridge and LED lights without running the engine.
 
The batteries are from 2006 and we have 80+110+110 in one bank protected by a "battery-brain" disconnecting the "start battery" at xx.x volts
Cheers,
Skipper
Former owner of Hanse 342 2005 (Sparcraft mast, white hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, short rudder)
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piquet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote piquet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 October 2013 at 04:50
Just a heads up on managing energy and compressor rub time more efficiently. I have installed a Smart Energy Control onto my Webasto fridge.   I came across this at the Auckland boat show.

The claims are that significant energy savings are achievable by the smart controller's processor continuously scanning key environmental factors such as internal temp and system supply voltage. The impact of this results in a recalibration of the compressor speed which maximises performance and loads consumption.

Installation was fairly straightforward on my 375 and I haven't yet been able to our a substantive data other than my observations over the last week. Two noticeable differences are; the fridge temperature is now cooler, and the compressor operates with less noise.

It is easy to install but required some minor carpentry to access the back of the compressor control unit.   The tricky part is the installation of the sensor probe near the bottom of the fridge without having to channel wiring inside the fridge wall. I have managed to do this by drilling from within the lower cabinet in the galley and being able to exit The whole inside the fridge at the lower point for the installation of the probe.

The existing control I have not has been left intact are the only impact to this has been the wiring at the back of the control unit on the attached to the compressor. I have installed a new potentiometer where the existing light is fitted. Webasto have a double adapter unit which fits into that slot and allows for the light fitting and the potentiometer meter to be fitted into this housing.

The new processing unit plugs into the back of the existing control unit behind the compressor.

Condensation on the side wall which faces the sqaub is in evidence on my vessel as well.   Speaking to a refrigeration technician and looking at the remediation work done on a another Hanse 375, they installed foil insulation material on the outer wall with the expectation that this will reduce the moisture penetration onto the squab.

Regarding another issue raised in this discussion topic about condensation under the refrigeration unit: solution would be to install a fan in the chamber where the compressor is to draw the fear to allow for circulation this should reduce the incidence of condensation. This could be linked to the compressor so that the firm only operates whilst the compressor is active.
piquet
Brisbane, Australia
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piquet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote piquet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 October 2013 at 04:51
Just a heads up on managing energy and compressor rub time more efficiently. I have installed a Smart Energy Control onto my Webasto fridge.   I came across this at the Auckland boat show.

The claims are that significant energy savings are achievable by the smart controller's processor continuously scanning key environmental factors such as internal temp and system supply voltage. The impact of this results in a recalibration of the compressor speed which maximises performance and loads consumption.

Installation was fairly straightforward on my 375 and I haven't yet been able to our a substantive data other than my observations over the last week. Two noticeable differences are; the fridge temperature is now cooler, and the compressor operates with less noise.

It is easy to install but required some minor carpentry to access the back of the compressor control unit.   The tricky part is the installation of the sensor probe near the bottom of the fridge without having to channel wiring inside the fridge wall. I have managed to do this by drilling from within the lower cabinet in the galley and being able to exit The whole inside the fridge at the lower point for the installation of the probe.

The existing control I have not has been left intact are the only impact to this has been the wiring at the back of the control unit on the attached to the compressor. I have installed a new potentiometer where the existing light is fitted. Webasto have a double adapter unit which fits into that slot and allows for the light fitting and the potentiometer meter to be fitted into this housing.

The new processing unit plugs into the back of the existing control unit behind the compressor.

Condensation on the side wall which faces the sqaub is in evidence on my vessel as well.   Speaking to a refrigeration technician and looking at the remediation work done on a another Hanse 375, they installed foil insulation material on the outer wall with the expectation that this will reduce the moisture penetration onto the squab.

Regarding another issue raised in this discussion topic about condensation under the refrigeration unit: solution would be to install a fan in the chamber where the compressor is to draw the air to allow for circulation this should reduce the incidence of condensation. This could be linked to the compressor so that the firm only operates whilst the compressor is active.
piquet
Brisbane, Australia
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MartinWatts View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartinWatts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 October 2013 at 14:18
Improving the air flow to the compressor is very easy and cheap to do. 
 
See the 341/21 Forum
 
 
Martin sailing Dipper Hanse 341
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Gran Onada View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gran Onada Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2013 at 17:17
I want to improve the fridge insulation on my 350, has any tried such job on the 350? Is there any insulation from factory or the fridge is just the fiberglass box?

Cheers
Gran Onada IV - Hanse 350 #130
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Idelfix View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Idelfix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2013 at 20:13
Hi 
I think your fridge is the new model and then s it made of PVC plastic
Check the inside seam and piping penetrates the rear edge.
It is also good to make holes in the cabinet to the compressor and the rear edge into the fireplace

"Keep sailing in free wind"

http://suhrfa.blogspot.se


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Johan Hackman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johan Hackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 16:17
I am digging up this old thread because I think the time has come for me to get my act together and follow all the good advice in this thread (and and a few other threads on the same subject) and insulate my cool box with polyurethane foam.

The first step I have taken is to practice to use the foam. I used an wine box to see how much the foam would expand and to see if the expansion would make the box explode.

Expand it did. I filled the box with foam and for the next twenty minutes or so lots of foam escaped through the hole.

Johan

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Johan Hackman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johan Hackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 16:21
The next step was to cut the box with a knife. I was surprised to see how easily the cured foam was cut and formed. It seems any excess foam will be easily removed when applied around the cooling box.

It was also interesting to see the density of the foam. It will probably work perfectly as insulating material.

Johan



Edited by Johan Hackman - 11 May 2018 at 20:51
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 17:12
Johan
If you look closely you may find that the foam in the centre has not cured properly. ( the box on the left shows some shading in the central area, other pieces are whiter)This is sometimes due to insufficient moisture to cure it & too much initially placed  the area to be filled. If your wine box had some wine in it it may have helped the moisture content. If your new surround does not have moisture you may end up with a gooey mess.
As an example i was making a dan buoy & filled a plastic bottle. The foam just went to a sticky mess & did not expand. If I had poured in some water first it would have worked.
Of course a lot depends on the foam. Some may not need moisture. so I may be out of order & you may already be aware- If so apologies
Samuel


Edited by samuel - 11 May 2018 at 17:14
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Weak Moment View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Weak Moment Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 18:47
Thanks for bringing this up - I need to do the same for my 371.  Perhaps more needed here in South Florida than in the archipeligo.  To give you an example of why the insulation is needed, with an ambient air temperature of +25, half way up the inside of the box the temperature is +13, while the bottom of the box is at -3.
 
 
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