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Salon lighting

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D38DK View Drop Down
Sub Lieutenant
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D38DK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2025 at 12:15
OK, and when you say board. It is the Arduino Leonardo Print that is in Port side electricity chamber? 
As in this picture: 

And not the actual remote?

If googling these boards, they dont seem that expensive, but there are probably many versions. Does Engine room know what exact one it is to buy for replacement?

Quite tricky error.
I had my boat at fixed power all winter as well, and when in the water, same issue as you .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote engineroom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2025 at 12:43
There are a few issues found with that lighting board (not the main board)

1) There is a six conductor wire going to a five pin connector on that lighting board.  It appears the connection on the far right is broken or shorted.  This appears to be the power line.

2) On the board in the boat currently, the voltage at the circled red area appears to be 5V.    The fuse, however (T750) is open (checked with all plugs out).   My guess is that the fuse blew when the power line shorted.   Was able to get the original fuse, but will have to use the extra conductor to bypass that power line.   My thought is to rig up the fuse temporarily with some alligator clips to make sure it works before soldering it back.

3) On another board, the fuse is OK, however, that voltage is zero.   Capacitors check out, however, when powering up with 12V, 12V, not 5V appears.  Replacing the voltage regulator didn't help; it appears the two smaller devices (in yellow) have different characteristics.  

Doing a search on "Why would there be diodes to ground in and LM7805 circuit?" (The LM7805 is a standard 5V regulator, not necessarily the one you see in the picture), a few answers popup; https://forum.arduino.cc/t/using-diodes-in-lm7805-design-circuits/921152 is one of them, but the canonical answer is probably here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/lm7805-backfeed-protection/

... which shows the datasheet https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm7800.pdf.

The upper yellow circled widget seems to be shorted, which is a usual failure mode for a diode, but it isn't clear, without a wiring diagram, what the replacement might be.




Edited by engineroom - 20 May 2025 at 12:57
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote engineroom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2025 at 12:46
It is unclear how that ribbon cable is run; if it runs into the bilge, and it got chafed and/or wet, it might have shorted, causing the fuse to blow, and/or other components to break.

My thought is that the T750 fuse should have been a replaceable one, but it isn't clear what the design specs needed to be for the fuse to blow quickly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D38DK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2025 at 12:47
Thanks.

Do you think this boardis the same model/type as the one in my picture?

Do you ahve the actual model number of it, if ordering a new?
They seem to be below 50€ cost.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote engineroom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2025 at 12:53
If they are below 50 Euros, replacement would be best.  Didn't realize that they were that cheap.
Looks to be the same; there might be a part number someplace.

If the fuse blew, you might want to check to see if the ribbon cable conductors (there are five in the setup we were working on) has continuity, and isn't shorted to anything.  Otherwise, you might plug in the new board and blow that board.  Use of a ribbon cable in that environment doesn't see to be ideal in that environment, but there may have been other considerations.

Edited by engineroom - 20 May 2025 at 12:55
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D38DK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2025 at 09:33
Sorry, I think im mistaking. Just thought i saw several of these boards in my firset search, but can't find them again, so must have concluded wrong.
Hanse Yacht does not have them, and reconmend to buy new, which is 450+295 € as also the remote needs to be replaced.

If anyone knows where to buy the PCB print (ABL Sursum SLS F ) Then please share.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Arcadia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2025 at 13:09
There is a company in Europe that will repair these. 

Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Arcadia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2025 at 13:22
I believe this is then identical board used by Hanse. This company is in France. 

Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 32mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2025 at 13:31
Maybe this is a dumb question but why do we even have these boards? It’s just lights, right? Seems like it’s way overcomplicated. I guess it’s just for the dimming/scenario features. That’s all well and good as long as it doesn’t fail. $500 seems like a lot of money for a light switch - and I have three of these boards.
Mike
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