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SD50 Saildrive |
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MartinR34 
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Joined: 08 January 2025 Location: Portsmouth Status: Offline Points: 38 |
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 Posted: 01 October 2025 at 23:16 |
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Yes, it was very simple. There are 8 or 10 hex bolts which secure the leg to the gearbox. These are accessed from below with a socket and extension bar (to give you room to swing the socket arm below the leg). They are not all accessible with the saildrive bolted down and you have to move it from side to side to reach all of the bolts. My engine was fully removed when I did mine which makes it easier. Don't forget to drain the oil before splitting the leg!
You'll need to separate the engine and transmission and slide the engine forward to allow the transmission to be lifted for the new diaphragms to be fitted. On the 400 it is much easier if the whole engine is removed but this needs a hoist etc. If the engine is removed you can remove the propshaft from the leg and lift the whole unit upwards and out without splitting it if preferred.
Edited by MartinR34 - 01 October 2025 at 23:40 |
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Sapphire. 2010 400 #687
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MartinR34
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Joined: 08 January 2025 Location: Portsmouth Status: Offline Points: 38 |
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Posted: 01 October 2025 at 23:31 |
Your quote appears high. Hours should be around 15-20 max and the hourly rate looks high. Although I ended up replacing the whole saildrive unit myself, the engineer I had previously booked for the diaphragm replacement had quoted £1,500 - 1-2 days work for two people. This included engine removal and refit. The exhaust hose and elbow needs to be removed (although I split the exhaust at the water trap and left the short house and elbow attached to the engine as this was easier). You also need to remove and plug the hot water calorifier hoses at the engine end.
Edited by MartinR34 - 01 October 2025 at 23:33 |
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Sapphire. 2010 400 #687
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Issywa
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Joined: 13 April 2022 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 143 |
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Posted: 02 October 2025 at 05:49 |
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When the boat was hauled, I noticed those bolts tucked up under the rubber flap that I assume prevents excess drag, and "stuff" from getting up to the underside of the sail drive. Sounds simple enough to remove those if thats all that is necessary to remove the lower leg. And of course the oil....
Last summer when I did the cone clutch "upgrade", (wondering how long that will last) there were 4 bolts that needed to be loosened but not removed - is their removal how one separates the engine and transmission? I found a manual online but it's not as detailed as I would like. Sounds like keeping the alignment of the pinion shaft is a big deal to avoid any "binding". Any tricks to suggest? I replaced the seals in the lower drive shaft while I had the boat hauled. I guess there is another seal towards the top of the lower leg that I should also replace. Any other maintenance that you suggest while the unit is accessible? Also, I'm thinking about building a frame that I can install around the engine to allow me to lift and shift the engine. Stay tuned for more details on that. Really appreciating the comments - keep them coming please. |
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jeb
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Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 339 |
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Posted: 02 October 2025 at 09:04 |
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The 4 bolts/nuts that you were backing off when removing the clutch is not the right ones (those only secures the pinion assembly). You need to remove the bolts holding the flywheel cover to the engine. If you want to separate the flywheel cover from the gearbox this is done after the separation from engine, but this is not needed for the diaphragm replacement. I did mine this winter and changed all o-rings and seals + the needle bearings in the clutch. I would also suggest that you check the vertical play of the clutch that you put hours to set up, mine hade increased from 0.2 to 0.4mm since i did the original install of the upgrade kit. Also the gear selector play should be checked, but use Yanmars method and not Guedions since his will give a to big play (should be 0,2-0,4 while he say "back off one turn" that will be to much)
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Jesper
Hanse 400e |
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Mark_J1
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Joined: 12 March 2013 Location: Dover&Medway UK Status: Offline Points: 690 |
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Posted: 02 October 2025 at 14:24 |
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This shot might help. This is my SD50, inverted, & held on an engine house frame. The separation of the leg isn’t to tough. Just a case of creating access. On the 400e that means the engine slid forward to allow the upper portion of the drive to come out vertically and upward while the leg is released downwards. I had professional help with this job so I won’t claim a DIY tick! Does definitely help to have 2 people, one in the boat and one outside. |
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Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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MartinR34
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Joined: 08 January 2025 Location: Portsmouth Status: Offline Points: 38 |
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Posted: 02 October 2025 at 15:31 |
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I bought myself a car gearbox hoist / jack - £40 on Amazon. The kind of tool used when a car is raised on a lift and the gearbox is dropped out the bottom. It has a height reach of around 1.75m from the ground so I was able to place this under the saildrive to provide support whilst separating and re-mating the engine and gearbox driveshaft. Very helpful, but I agree that two people plus this would have been even easier!
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Sapphire. 2010 400 #687
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Issywa
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Joined: 13 April 2022 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 143 |
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Posted: 02 October 2025 at 16:18 |
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Not sure if its my computer, but I'm unable to see your photos?
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Mark_J1
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Joined: 12 March 2013 Location: Dover&Medway UK Status: Offline Points: 690 |
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Posted: 04 October 2025 at 20:56 |
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Not sure what went wrong on the uploads. Here's the 2 missing photos.
Mark   |
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Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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Issywa
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Joined: 13 April 2022 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 143 |
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Posted: 05 October 2025 at 16:58 |
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Did you have to support the sail drive while removing the engine? I’ve seen some posts where that was done but I’m not sure why - seems to me that the sail drive is supported by the rear isolation mount and per your photo, bolts into the engine bed.
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MartinR34
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Joined: 08 January 2025 Location: Portsmouth Status: Offline Points: 38 |
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Posted: 05 October 2025 at 17:50 |
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I didn't support mine for removal but did to re-mate the engine on installation.
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Sapphire. 2010 400 #687
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Issywa wrote: